• Hedge your bets: Download an official, clean copy of Win10 version 1903 (build 18362.356) and save it for a rainy day

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    #1965596

    You can get a copy of Win10 1903 whether you’re running Windows or not. Might prove nice to have on a rainy day. Full step-by-step instructions coming
    [See the full post at: Hedge your bets: Download an official, clean copy of Win10 version 1903 (build 18362.356) and save it for a rainy day]

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    • #1965629

      Hi Woody,

      How much better is this build of 1903 than the one downloaded in April (build 17763.379)?

      Thanks for all you do.

      Tony H.
      Bristol, UK

       

      • #1965728

        no Tony H

        build 17763.379 is 1809 V2 or 1809 Mar 2019 refresh released near the end of March 2019

        • This reply was modified 4 years ago by EP.
        • This reply was modified 4 years ago by EP.
        1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #1965721

      C’mon Woody, it’s EZ to find your Windows version – just enter winver into the Search in Win 7 or Win 10.

    • #1965732

      um woody. build 18362.356 is 1903 + KB4515384 cumulative update integrated (that CU that allegedly broke start menu on some systems and cause some other issues reported earlier this September)

      • #1965738

        True. But that’s the one on offer, and usually the first step after installing is to get the latest CU.

      • #1965895

        When the start menu issue was reported, a lot of people were saying that installing from an ISO with the update already integrated did not result in an issue.

    • #1965740

      I don’t know if it’s a legal source [would love to hear comments on that], but older Win10 versions are available here:

      https://www.heidoc.net/joomla/technology-science/microsoft/67-microsoft-windows-and-office-iso-download-tool

       

      2 users thanked author for this post.
    • #1965781

      I don’t know if it’s a legal source [would love to hear comments on that], but older Win10 versions are available here:

      https://www.heidoc.net/joomla/technology-science/microsoft/67-microsoft-windows-and-office-iso-download-tool

       

      These are legal downloads of Windows 10.

      1 user thanked author for this post.
      • #1965784

        Yep. Jan Krohn at Heidoc.com doesn’t actually store the files – he just comes up with links to Microsoft’s servers. Interesting guy. He’s been doing it for a long time. https://www.askwoody.com/2016/the-safest-way-to-get-a-new-copy-of-the-windows-7-bits

        4 users thanked author for this post.
        • #1966312

          Manipulating javascript and using Win7 keys to broadly download Win7 ISOs do not sound very legal to me 🙂

          and he actually took the concept from other “researchers”

          1 user thanked author for this post.
      • #1966281

        My computer has had nothing but 1903/18362.295 on it for the entire three weeks of ownership. I’ve also been following MS-DEFCON for some time.

        Merely out of curiosity, and with Woody’s preference for pre-1903 versions apparent, would it be at all recommended for me to consider the download/install of an earlier version, say 1809 on this same machine?

         

        The duration of a minute depends on which side of the bathroom door you're on.

        • #1966306

          I wouldn’t recommend downgrading to an earlier version (1809) if you are not experiencing any problems.
          But I would monitor the updates carefully so you avoid (if possible) the buggy ones.

          And I would suggest you definitely make an image of your computer at this point.
          And create a Rescue Disk/USB stick.

          2 users thanked author for this post.
          • #1996047

            I wouldn’t recommend downgrading to an earlier version (1809) if you are not experiencing any problems.
            But I would monitor the updates carefully so you avoid (if possible) the buggy ones.

            And I would suggest you definitely make an image of your computer at this point.
            And create a Rescue Disk/USB stick.

            In gerneral,this is the common and effective  way to do,download Windows iso file and burn it to an USB (CD/DVD is also supported).

    • #1965791

      Just finished getting my copy and it is 1903, 18362.356 on USB. Just a reminder, once you get the USB finished and you do not plan to install right away, after removing the USB get rid of C:\$WINDOWS.~BT, and (hidden) C:\$WINDOWS.~WS, and C:\ESD directories as they are left over from the MCT.

      Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
      All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

      5 users thanked author for this post.
    • #1965813

      I’m going to download this… but… I’m still running 1809. Have I been left behind or will I *eventually* get 1903 [or 1909?]

    • #1965908

      I need to go pick up a thumbdrive, how much room does it take? Thanks for  the tip.

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #1965918

      I need to go pick up a thumbdrive, how much room does it take? Thanks for  the tip.

      I would get an 8 GB USB drive minimum.

      Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
      All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #1965957

      For those of us who want to wait until Win10 1909 (19H2?) shakes out in 2020, should we download & store 1903 like choice nuts? Or wait until a “clean” 1909 ISO is available & protect that nut?!

      Bought a refurbished Windows 10 64-bit, currently updated to 22H2. Have broke the AC adapter cord going to the 8.1 machine, but before that, coaxed it into charging. Need to buy new adapter if wish to continue using it.
      Wild Bill Rides Again...

      • #1965968

        two memes: “why not have both?”; “embrace the power of And”

        It only costs 5GB worth of storage.

    • #1965974

      born has recently written this blog about 1909 being released Oct. 3?

      https://borncity.com/win/2019/09/27/windows-10-v1909-ready-release-on-october-3-2019/

      also there are ESD downloads for 1909 build 18363.356 available as mentioned there

      • This reply was modified 4 years ago by EP.
      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #1965979

      Hi,

      Excuse me but you don’t make sense in this article.

      On the one hand, your article is all about saving a clean copy of W10-1903.

      But, then, you give your condolences if we are ALREADY running 1903 (you say:…. If you are already running version 1903, you have my condolences).

      Now, why would you want us to make a clean copy of something you would feel sorry about if we actually ran it?

      Thanks,

      Moderator Note: Please view post in the TEXT tab before posting copied material. Such as from Word or other sources. HTML removed from this post.

      • #1965992

        I think you are commenting on a different article…but here’s why you want to download 1903.  Soon 1909 will be out, you want to download 1903 until the time when you do want 1903.

         

        Moderator note: Mea culpa Susan

        Susan Bradley Patch Lady/Prudent patcher

        4 users thanked author for this post.
    • #1966541

      Hi,

      First of all thanks for all the good work u guys do! been visiting this site for years now.U ‘ve been a great help!

      My settup: “medieval” HP DC-5800 desktop PC  Intel Dual core E8200, running Windows 7 ultimate ( group B style patching) and windows 10 1809 PRO…dual boot with OS’s on seperate harddrives  Upgraded from 1709 to 1809 with 1809 ISO while keeping programs and apps. W7 is used 95% of the time. I am just preparing w10 as the ” w7 end of life” is near.

      W10 is used in conjunction with “sledgehammer” , a  script which uses WUMT (windows update minitool) WUMGR and WUB (windows update blocker) Also use WUSHOWHIDE

      regular full system backups are made with Acronis backup software.

      Woody mentioned getting a W10 1903 copy.My question is this:

      Will i be able to keep my programs and apps when i “upgrade from 1809 to 1909? like i did before going from 1709 to 1809? Or do i have to perform a clean install and loose all my installed programs.. I’ve learned that when i upgrade to 1903 first, then there’s no need to “clean install” 1909. In this case Windows will just update like the way cumulative updates work.

      Second question: Would it be wise to use MSMG toolkit  and alter the 1903\1909 ISO and remove metroapps, quickacces, onedrive.I did this on the 1709 ISO with succes.I wonder if an upgrade to 1903 or 1909 (install with ISO and keep programs and apps) will introduce those things back in. I’ve read that a later version of MSMG is needed for 1903 and 1909.Any advice on a stable version would be welcome.

      Thanks

      • #1966548

        Will i be able to keep my programs and apps when i “upgrade from 1809 to 1909? like i did before going from 1709 to 1809?

        You would have the same options going from 1809 to 1909 as you had going from 1709 to 1809. There is some consideration for handling the dual boot as well as the modifications you have done with the update managers/blockers.
        If you decided to go with 1903 first (not necessary) the upgrade to 1909 would be the same.
        Definitely be sure you have full disk images and a data backup in any case.

        Woody has suggested stashing the 1903 ISO simply to have a backup, as it will not be available through Microsoft when it makes the transition to 1909. The Iso download and the MCT will produce a 1909 ISO.

        • #1966567

          Thanks PKCano,

          “There is some consideration for handling the dual boot as well as the modifications you have done with the update managers/blockers”

          Maybe wise to uninstall the “sledgehammer”script first (Thats easy) before the upgrade yes?  upgrading best be done offline then i presume.

          I use easyBCD for handling the boot.. U mention the boot part… u mean i might have to create a new boot entry with easyBCD after upgrading?

          “The Iso download and the MCT will produce a 1909 ISO”  Woody talks about getting the 1903…not shure if i know what u mean PKCano.

          Tanks for the quick response btw

          • #1966596

            For an upgrade, I usually use Windows Update to download, then take it off line before the install. If using an ISO, yes, I do the upgrade offline and be sure the settings are where I want them before I expose it to MS.

            Once 1909 comes out, if you download the ISO from MS or you use the MCT to create it, it will give you an ISO of 1909, not 1903. If you want a copy of the 1903 ISO for “in case” purposes, now is the time to download it b/c it won’t be available after 1909 is released.

            As for the dual boot, hopefully it will come through unscathed.

            • #1966610

              ok thanks, will download \create the 1903 ISO for backup… ASAP with MCT…havent got microsoft account….hmmm i need one yes when using MCT ? W7 is activated “unofficially” and W10 GenuineTicket was created through the gatherosstate route

              Got confused about upgrading, reading this on pureinfotech dot com

              Windows 10 version 1909 is the next major release of the OS, which is expected to release sometime in September 2019.

              If you’re already running the Windows 10 May 2019 Update, version 1903, then the device will receive the new version as a cumulative update through Windows Update, and the installation experience will be similar to those updates you get every month….

              However, if your device has an older version (such as the October 2018 Update or April 2018 Update), then the process to upgrade will require the full reinstallation of Windows 10.

              Thanks

            • #1966617

              You don’t need a MS account. Use the MCT in 1709.

            • #1966629

              OK   good to hear..

              why not download MCT in 1809 which im on and create ISO?  thats really a hassle to rollback to 1709 first with an old backup …  dont understand why 1709?

              thanks…

            • #1966642

              Sorry, I meant 1809. (Whatever version of Win10).

            • #1966670

              no propbl… u got a lot to answer and not only me  thanks  again!

               

            • #1966804

              ISO 1903 creation went well using W10_1809 32 bit..and MCT.   surprisingly the created  ISO has a very small size

              Size: 3047620608 bytes (2906 MiB) 

              SHA1: 594CA802EA8C139DD5B8818158A380C5A799370D

              Earlier i downloaded  en_windows_10_consumer_editions_version_1903_x86_dvd_b40c5211.iso  Date release: 2019-04-19

              SHA-1: E9E187CE83A662619ED05B5B783C12F861E18682  (Also found on MDL forum)
              This one is 450 MB larger, while its an earlier version??????

              I wonder why the created ISO is so small. I’ve removed OneDrive and metroapp from 1809. Having made the ISO using this 1809 OS, does that have an effect on the created ISO size?

            • #1966846

              32-bit is smaller than 64, and with MCT you selected a single edition (Home or Pro etc.)

              The other “consumer_editions” one includes the ability to install 11 different editions:
              Windows 10 (consumer editions), version 1903 (x86) – DVD (English)

              I don’t think you having trimmed 1809 would affect the size of a 1903 ISO created with MCT.

              Windows 11 Pro version 22H2 build 22621.2361 + Microsoft 365 + Edge

            • #1966857

              thanks b, totally missed ur answer…  smaller ISO due to creation single version went through my mind too, but still was surprised it was so small…thanks for clearing the sky..

              1 user thanked author for this post.
              b
    • #1966734

      So, I successfully downloaded a 64-bit copy of version 1903 to my ASUS C302CA Chromebook and it shows as 4.6 GB ISO file. However, when I try to copy it from the Downloads folder in internal memory on the Chromebook to the SD card in the Chromebook or to a 32 GB USB 3.0 SanDisk thumb drive the copy operation errors off at 4.0 GB with a message “Copy operation failed. The file or the directory is not usable.”.

      Ideas what is going on here?

      Thanks!

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #1966758

      If the USB drive or SD card is formatted FAT32, I believe the maximum file size for FAT32 is 4GB.

      Yep, PKCano, I think you nailed it. Max file size for FAT32 is 4GB.

      • #1966789

        Download it to the USB directly from the MCT. Here is my USB Fat 32 drive with 1903 on it.

        USB-1903

        Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
        All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

        • #1966885

          Download it to the USB directly from the MCT. Here is my USB Fat 32 drive with 1903 on it.

          Looks very similar to the way mine turned out, right down to the identical ESD-USB default properties name.

          In my case, the particular drive selected for the file download destination was previously formatted in both partitions for NTFS. This I can confirm. However, once the process was complete I decided to peek in with Disk Management only to discover that not only had ESD-USB re-formatted back to FAT32, but according to Disk Management there were no longer any partitions. Now, knowing me there’s a possibility of having missed a queue or prompt or window or setting change somewhere.

          But right now it’s the un-knowing of whether this file format change behavior is typical, and what, if any, measures can be taken to get it to respond differently.

          The duration of a minute depends on which side of the bathroom door you're on.

          • #1967034

            Download it to the USB directly from the MCT. Here is my USB Fat 32 drive with 1903 on it.

            Looks very similar to the way mine turned out, right down to the identical ESD-USB default properties name.

            In my case, the particular drive selected for the file download destination was previously formatted in both partitions for NTFS. This I can confirm. However, once the process was complete I decided to peek in with Disk Management only to discover that not only had ESD-USB re-formatted back to FAT32, but according to Disk Management there were no longer any partitions. Now, knowing me there’s a possibility of having missed a queue or prompt or window or setting change somewhere.

            But right now it’s the un-knowing of whether this file format change behavior is typical, and what, if any, measures can be taken to get it to respond differently.

            The Media Creation Tool (MCT) replaces all data on your chosen USB drive.
            The instructions say to use a blank USB drive because it will be overwritten anyway.

            Visit this page: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
            and scroll down to click on “Using the tool to create installation media (USB flash drive, DVD, or ISO file) to install Windows 10 on a different PC”.
            That will expand to reveal what to expect from running the MCT.

            Image or Clone often! Backup, backup, backup, backup......
            - - - - -
            Home Built: Windows 10 Home 64-bit, AMD Athlon II X3 435 CPU, 16GB RAM, ASUSTeK M4A89GTD-PRO/USB3 (AM3) motherboard, 512GB SanDisk SSD, 3 TB WD HDD, 1024MB ATI AMD RADEON HD 6450 video, ASUS VE278 (1920x1080) display, ATAPI iHAS224 Optical Drive, integrated Realtek HD Audio

            • This reply was modified 4 years ago by RockE.
            1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #1966884

      Download it to the USB directly from the MCT. Here is my USB Fat 32 drive with 1903 on it.

      How do I do that? Every download I try, including

      https://www.techpowerup.com/255823/psa-how-to-download-the-windows-10-1903-iso-from-ms-without-the-media-creation-tool

      gives me a file that is 4.6 GB which is too big for FAT32.

      I see your file is just barely under 4 GB.

      How did you do that?

      Thanks!

      • #1966886

        There are ISOs for 32-bit and 64-bit. There are ISOs for Home, Pro, or a combination of editions.

        32-bit single edition, single language, is smaller than 64-bit of the same.
        Home is smaller than Pro, both of which are smaller than the ISO with multiple editins and/or languages.

        It depends what you are downloading.

        • #1966967

          There are ISOs for 32-bit and 64-bit. There are ISOs for Home, Pro, or a combination of editions.

          Microsoft’s recommended options for this PC defaulted to x64, Enlish (US) but with no Home/Pro option. Is this typical?

          The duration of a minute depends on which side of the bathroom door you're on.

    • #1966908

      There are ISOs for 32-bit and 64-bit. There are ISOs for Home, Pro, or a combination of editions.

      32-bit single edition, single language, is smaller than 64-bit of the same.
      Home is smaller than Pro, both of which are smaller than the ISO with multiple editins and/or languages.

      It depends what you are downloading.

      Thanks PKCano. That makes sense.

      In every case I select 1903, 64-bit, and ‘English’ and I get 4.6 GB.

      I’m waiting to hear back from CADesertRat exactly what this means:

      “Download it to the USB directly from the MCT.”

      Maybe I am missing an additional step.

      • #1966958

        I’m waiting to hear back from CADesertRat exactly what this means: “Download it to the USB directly from the MCT.”

        My computers are W10 Pro 64 bit but as far as I know the MCT is a generic version as to home/pro but you may have to choose bittedness if you are on a 32 bit, and choose “for another computer”.
        I went here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 and clicked the “Download Tool Now” button which downloads the Media creation tool (MCT).                                   NOTE: there are instructions below that button to tell you how to use it for a USB or DVD.

        After downloading the MCT, I put my flash drive in and double clicked the MCT and after a few mins the window opened and I proceeded from there. It takes awhile for the whole thing to complete and there are decisions to make at the beginning. Reminder: read the instructions I referred to in the note above to see how to use the tool.

        Hope this helps

        Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
        All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

        • #1967205

          I’m waiting to hear back from CADesertRat exactly what this means: “Download it to the USB directly from the MCT.”

          My computers are W10 Pro 64 bit but as far as I know the MCT is a generic version as to home/pro but you may have to choose bittedness if you are on a 32 bit, and choose “for another computer”.
          I went here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 and clicked the “Download Tool Now” button which downloads the Media creation tool (MCT).                                   NOTE: there are instructions below that button to tell you how to use it for a USB or DVD.

          After downloading the MCT, I put my flash drive in and double clicked the MCT and after a few mins the window opened and I proceeded from there. It takes awhile for the whole thing to complete and there are decisions to make at the beginning. Reminder: read the instructions I referred to in the note above to see how to use the tool.

          Hope this helps

          Thanks for responding.

          Based on what Woody said in his ComputerWorld article I don’t want the MCT, I want just the ISO. Unless I misunderstood Woody.

          I’m running Windows 7 on all of my PCs, so I followed the instructions in Step 3 of Woody’s article (‘If you aren’t running Windows 10, grab a different machine’) to download just the .ISO file to my Chromebook. That worked fine and I have a 4.6 GB ISO file sitting there in internal memory.

          But I cannot copy the ISO file from internal memory to the SD card in the Chromebook nor to a USB flash drive because of the 4 GB limit on FAT32 drives.

          This is the point at which I am stuck.

           

          • #1970913

            But I cannot copy the ISO file from internal memory to the SD card in the Chromebook nor to a USB flash drive because of the 4 GB limit on FAT32 drives.

            According to what I read… at least some Chromebooks are able to write to NTFS and exFAT flash drives, even if they can’t format to those.

            So if you can reformat the USB flash to one of those on another computer, it might work?

    • #1967001

      Followed the instructions in the article – downloaded it to my “e” drive (external) – did not hit setup or execute anything…………..now that drive has been renamed all my stuff is gone….WTH? from what I’ve read this action is non-recoverable – anybody out there experience that ?? gotta admit I’m pretty steamed over this…..

      • #1967105

        Followed the instructions in the article – downloaded it to my “e” drive (external) – did not hit setup or execute anything…………..now that drive has been renamed all my stuff is gone….WTH? from what I’ve read this action is non-recoverable – anybody out there experience that ?? gotta admit I’m pretty steamed over this…..

        From the MCT instructions that I referred to earlier:

        Instructions

        Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
        All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

    • #1967002

      Would following these procedures to create the clean copy of Win10 Version 1903 on a 256 GB USB 3.0 Flash drive result in the flash drive being only 32 GB?

      Because either that’s what happened to me, or my flash drive was labeled incorrectly from the manufacturer (PNY)

       

      Terry K

      Moderator note: Personally identifying information and email address removed for security reasons.

       

    • #1967261

      I’m running Windows 7 on all of my PCs

      Hmm, guess I’m a bit confused. If you are running win 7 why do you need 1903??

      Ahh, I just re-read step 3 and you could use it for an upgrade to Win 10 evidently is what the drift is. Are those your plans??

      Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
      All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

      • This reply was modified 3 years, 12 months ago by PKCano.
      • This reply was modified 3 years, 12 months ago by CADesertRat.
    • #1967465

      I’m running Windows 7 on all of my PCs

      Hmm, guess I’m a bit confused. If you are running win 7 why do you need 1903??

      Ahh, I just re-read step 3 and you could use it for an upgrade to Win 10 evidently is what the drift is. Are those your plans??

      • This reply was modified 3 years, 12 months ago by PKCano.
      • This reply was modified 3 years, 12 months ago by CADesertRat.

      Yes, exactly. As Woody says, to tuck it away for a rainy day.  🙂

      • #1967492

        Yes, exactly. As Woody says, to tuck it away for a rainy day

        Since you can’t use the MCT then your other option is to burn it to a DL DVD afaik. Others may chime in but that’s the only other way to get it off your internal storage as a bootable ISO or you could copy it to external storage for now until your ready.

        Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
        All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

    • #1967605

      Tried to create a USB copy of 1903 for future use as recommended by Woody in recent article. Believe I followed the Microsoft  instructions  for the MCT to which I was eventually routed. Made two attempts, neither of which worked. Everything seems to go fine for a while. Get 100% download. Creating Win10 Media process starts. Run to 50% progress and aborts with “There was a problem running this tool” and error code 0x80042405-0xA0018. Using 1809 64-bit with 16GB USB. Any ideas?

       

      Thanks!

    • #1970789

      There are ISOs for 32-bit and 64-bit. There are ISOs for Home, Pro, or a combination of editions.

      Microsoft’s recommended options for this PC defaulted to x64, Enlish (US) but with no Home/Pro option. Is this typical?

      I don’t see a response to chaloots question of September 27, 2019 at 7:42 pm: “Microsoft’s recommended options for this PC defaulted to x64, Enlish (US) but with no Home/Pro option. Is this typical?”

      I also got no Home/Pro option.

      • #1970981

        The only option is for x32/64 because home/pro are contained within the package.
        If you have a 64 bit processor – almost any PC these days – then get the x64 package. This allows you to access all that lovely RAM you’ve installed – anything over 4GB.

        cheers, Paul

    • #1973657

      The 1903 “V2” ISO downloads are now available from the Windows 10 downloads page this THU Oct. 3.
      examples of the updated or refreshed 1903 ISO names are the following:

      Win10_1903_V2_English_x64.iso
      Win10_1903_V2_English_x32.iso

      these V2 ISOs contain build 18362.356

      • This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by EP.
      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #1973651

      Hey M. Leonhard, how are you?

      Something is bugging me in the article.

      On one hand you suggest storing away a clean version 1903 of W10 like it’s a good thing, but on the other hand you write  “If you’re already running version 1903, you have my condolences”. What do you mean that?

      English IS my second language so maybe there’s something I’m not getting here because in french, that expression would mean you want to show support because I lost someone/something that I loved/was valuable. That line got me confused about v.1903. Is it good or not?

      Thanks for taking the time to enlighten me.

      Nicolas Michaud

      • #1974013

        “If you’re already running version 1903, you have my condolences”. What do you mean that?

        English IS my second language so maybe there’s something I’m not getting here because in french, that expression would mean you want to show support because I lost someone/something that I loved/was valuable.

        Commiserating with the situation of running 1903 already is the gist of the condolences comment above. Sometimes these things are not so easy to understand from a second-language perspective.

        Essentially, now isn’t a good time to start using 1903, but some people are already running it, and if you have the opportunity to hold off installing 1903, that appears to be the current wisdom (although this may change in the short-medium term future). As mentioned by Woody and Susan above:

        here’s why you want to download 1903. Soon 1909 will be out, you want to download 1903 until the time when you do want 1903.

        Susan nailed it. You should keep a copy around, just in case you’re trapped into upgrading to 1909 before you’re ready.

        2 users thanked author for this post.
        woody, b
      • #1974530

        Just as Kirsty says. The tipping point will come when the benefits of 1903 outweigh the problems. From my point of view, we aren’t at that point yet.

        The possibility of being able to control updates — to my mind, the most important Win10 feature update ever — is pulling heavily toward 1903. But the bugs — lately with the out-of-band patch — and the uncertainty over the delivery mechanism for 1909 have me sitting on the sidelines.

        1903: Bad now, better later, maybe advisable before too long. (Thx, @b)

        2 users thanked author for this post.
    • #1981958

      On Oct. 12, I bought a USB 2.0 16 GB flash drive. Had problems with Win8.1 continuing to recognize it; plug it in, File Explorer sees it, Windows says Scan It, File Explorer doesn’t see it in time to scan it, unplug it. Over & Over Again… until it stayed recognized long enough to Scan & Fix the USB stick. Successfully downloaded Win10 1903, Build 18362.418. This is probably the buggy one, but this squirrel has his Nut! Won’t use it unless Absolutely Necessary; will wait for Woody’s OK on 1909. The “November 2019 Update” will probably be okayed & used to Upgrade… in February 2020!

      Bought a refurbished Windows 10 64-bit, currently updated to 22H2. Have broke the AC adapter cord going to the 8.1 machine, but before that, coaxed it into charging. Need to buy new adapter if wish to continue using it.
      Wild Bill Rides Again...

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #1996343

      I’ve scanned thru this looong thread and didn’t see what I’m looking for. I’d like to download 1903 (currently running 1809) and save it on a USB thumb drive for future use. Is there a step-by-step procedure for how to do this somewhere?

       

      Thanks!

      • #1996347

        You will need an 8GB or 16GB bootable UPB drive.
        Download the Media Creation Tool from Microsoft.
        When you run the tool, say it is for another computer – choose your bitedness (32-bit or 64-bit).
        It will create ans ISO on your current computer. It should be v1903 Build 18362.356

        Burn that ISO to your bootable USB drive.

        • #1996367

          That was a QUICK response. I think I tried this before with a larger USB without success, but I’m not sure. Where will the ISO be found on my PC after it downloads? Not sure what you mean by “burn.” Can it just be copied over from wherever it goes upon downloading to the USB? As soon as I hear more, I’ll give it another try.

          Thanks,
          Don E.

          • #1996378

            The ISO is created in whatever location you designate in the path.
            You can copy the ISO (image file) to external storage or you can create a bootable installer on the USB drive.

    • #1996389

      Sorry I’m so dense… I think I previously downloaded the Media Creation Tool. Would it still be on my PC or do I need to download it again? If still here, where might I find it? I understand that I can designate a storage location for the download of the ISO. I’ll probably put it on the Desktop, for now anyway. Once I have it on the PC, I can copy it to external storage, like a USB. Would it be better to create a bootable installer on the USB instead? If so, how do I do that?

      Thanks again.

      Don E.

      • #1996394

        The MCT file is named MediaCreationToolxxxx.exe (where xxxx it the version of Win10). You can search to see if it’s still on your PC.
        The MCT creates the ISO on your PC in whatever location you designate, it doesn’t download it.
        If you double click the ISO it gets mounted as a drive.
        You can use your DVD burning software to burn it to a DVD as a bootable disk.

        • This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by PKCano.
        • #1996416

          If you double click the ISO it creates the installer wheREver you designate (on a DVD or bootable USB drive).

          If you double click an ISO it gets mounted as a drive.

          Windows 11 Pro version 22H2 build 22621.2361 + Microsoft 365 + Edge

    • #1998838

      I wouldn’t recommend downgrading to an earlier version (1809) if you are not experiencing any problems.
      But I would monitor the updates carefully so you avoid (if possible) the buggy ones.

      And I would suggest you definitely make an image of your computer at this point.
      And create a Rescue Disk/USB stick.

      In gerneral,this is the common and effective  way to do,download Windows iso file and burn it to an USB (CD/DVD is also supported).

      The two most common ways to download and install Windows 10.

      1: From Microoft website:https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/

      2:Windows 10 installation media: https://www.windows10passwordreset.com/create-windows-10-bootable-usb.html

      • #1998894

        Using the Media Creation Tool and creating the ISO on your computer (for another computer) will, usually, give you a later Build than downloading the ISO directly from Microsoft.
        You may avoid some earlier problems with the OS in this way.

    • #2001704

      I “squirreled” away a copy of 1903 in Sept. when this article came out and it was 18362.356 at the time I put it on my USB.

      Just curious if I should re-download since there have been numerous CU’s since then or should I just leave it as is before 1909 hits on Tuesday.

      Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
      All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

      • #2001715

        I downloaded the MCT about two weeks ago and it was still on 18362.356

        1 user thanked author for this post.
        • #2001729

          I downloaded the MCT about two weeks ago and it was still on 18362.356

          From your reply I assume that they are not updating the MCT any longer for 1903. Maybe because 1909 is ready to drop??

          I guess I better leave well enough alone, LOL.

          Thanks PK

          Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
          All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

        • #2001739

          I downloaded Win10 1903 onto a USB stick almost 3 weeks after Woody suggested it. Far as I know, I still got Build 18362.418. Possibly (probably?) buggy, but not planning to use it. Waiting for Woody’s all-clear on 1909…

          Bought a refurbished Windows 10 64-bit, currently updated to 22H2. Have broke the AC adapter cord going to the 8.1 machine, but before that, coaxed it into charging. Need to buy new adapter if wish to continue using it.
          Wild Bill Rides Again...

          1 user thanked author for this post.
          • #2001772

            Hmmm, seems to be a different experience for each download. Oh well, guess I’ll just set tight at .356.

            Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
            All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

    • #2002680

      I use dism /Get-WimInfo /WimFile:J:\sources\install.wim /index:1 to get the version # but I only get this info Version : 10.0.18362 How does one get the last 3 digits ?

      OK just realized its :ServicePack Build : 356 🙂

      I just used a fresh dl of MCT and made an ISO and the used one from July and get the same 10.0.18362 ServicePack Build : 356 for both. The Hash is different, I tried this twice, both times different. What could be going on??

      🍻

      Just because you don't know where you are going doesn't mean any road will get you there.
    • #2002681

      Hmmm, seems to be a different experience for each download. Oh well, guess I’ll just set tight at .356.

      Could this be a regional difference? I mean what is being cached on regional servers Akamai or whatever??

      🍻

      Just because you don't know where you are going doesn't mean any road will get you there.
      • #2002773

        I think I mentioned before that I suspected exactly that to be happening with 1809.

        Also different language versions may be at a different build number.

    • #2002841

      Any ideas on the hash differences ?

      The Hash is different, I tried this twice, both times different. What could be going on??

      🍻

      Just because you don't know where you are going doesn't mean any road will get you there.
    • #2002844

      For what it’s worth, I just this moment downloaded the MCT for use in the US, and the version number was 18362.418, so maybe there’s a difference due to the possible inclusion of the updates that’ve been released for October.

      BTW, I’m currently running Win7 x64 SP1 with all updates installed through and including October (except telemetry-that’s been disabled-and the EOL nag-that’s been hidden).

      R/

      Bob99

    • #2010488

      When I read this post, I downloaded, or thought I did, an ISO image of Win 10 1903 and saved it to a USB stick. Today I finally got up the courage to attempt to install it and found that I was unable to do it. The only options offered were to reinstall or repair Win 10 1803.

      I did a number of searches in an attempt to find another ISO image of 1903 but all the sites I found redirected me to MS download page which only offers 1909 which I refuse to install. I know that I have to do something soon since 1803 is EOL, I’m just at a loss to figure out what to do. I still have Win 7 on another computer, so that’s an option but it only lasts until it goes EOL at the end of January, 2020.

      I have a x 64 based Lenovo ThinkCentre. The BIOS was updated 7/5/2019 from Lenovo’s download site. The HDD is divided into two partitions (1) System 100MB NTFS with 68 MB of free space, and (2) Windows C 456.66GB NTFS with 417.57 GB of free space. My OS is Win 10 Pro version 10.1.17134 Build  17134. The PC is updated through October 2019 as per this site’s download instructions. I would provide more information if I knew what else was relevant.

      If anyone knows where I can acquire an ISO of Win 10 1903 for download I would be most appreciative. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide me.

      CAS

      • #2010500

        You can download an ISO for 1903 from heidoc.net using their downloader tool.
        The ISO has to match your Edition (Home, Pro, Enterprise, Education) and the bitedness (32-bit or 64-bit) of your current version .
        Burn the ISO to a DVD+R or bootable USB to create install media.

        Make a full disk image of your hard drive (free imaging programs are like Macrium Reflect, EaseUS Todo, Aomei Backupper, etc) and a file backup of your user data before you start.

        With your current installation of 1803 running, insert the media in your computer (do not boot from it).
        Disconnect from the Internet.
        Double click on setup.exe – it will do an in-place upgrade that allows you to keep your apps and data.
        Do not reconnect to the Internet until you have gone through the settings and are sure they are where you want them to be. MS sometimes changes the settings during install.

    • #2010499

      I downloaded the media creation tool as outlined in the Computer World article referenced above, but it downloaded the file MediaCreationTool1909.exe, which appears to be version 1909, not version 1903.

      • #2010506

        I downloaded the media creation tool as outlined in the Computer World article referenced above, but it downloaded the file MediaCreationTool1909.exe, which appears to be version 1909, not version 1903.

        The article was written on Sept. 26 of 2019 so if you waited until the last couple of weeks before downloading, it would certainly be 1909 by now. I downloaded it when the article came out and got 1903.

        Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
        All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

      • #2010507

        See my reply directly above to obtain an ISO of 1903

    • #2010847

      PKCano,

      Thanks much for the suggestion re heidoc.net. Using that site, I was FINALLY able to download the ISO for 1903, a task I was never able to accomplish using the Microsoft MCT. The file Win10_1903_V2_English_x64.iso now resides in my Downloads folder. So, onto the next step, burning it onto a USB. Your instructions specify using a “bootable USB.” How do I determine if a USB is bootable and, if it isn’t, how do I make it so? If I can get this done, then I guess I’ll just wait for the OK to upgrade from Woody to use it.

      Regards,

      D.E.

      1 user thanked author for this post.
      CAS
    • #2010894

      the 1903 (May 2019) ISO I got now is a more recent “refresh” ISO from MSDN with the KB4524570 update integrated [build 18362.476]

      ask a generous person out there who has this updated 1903 ISO from MSDN:
      en_windows_10_consumer_editions_version_1903_updated_nov_2019_x64_dvd_24cb9de7.iso

      this one is few months newer than the 1903 V2 (build 18362.356) ISO from the MS Techbench win10 download site

      • This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by EP.
    • #2011232

      You can use the batch file Woody refers to in his latest CW missive.

      cheers, Paul

      1 user thanked author for this post.
      • #2011350

        TLDR woody’s article to the end so thanks for pointing this out. I like batch files much more than some unreadable executable. 👍

        🍻

        Just because you don't know where you are going doesn't mean any road will get you there.
    • #2011526

      I absolutely cannot get the process to burn 1903 onto a bootable USB drive. I downloaded Win10_1903_V2_English_x64 to my downloads folder using HeiDoc.net. Big question was what to select as the Save as Type. Options are Disk Image File or All Files. Selected the former.

      Went to rufus site. Downloaded the rufus-3.8 app to Downloads folder. Plugged in a 16GB USB. Executed rufus. USB was auto-detected. Made Boot Selection = Disk or ISO image. Big question here is which selection to make in the SELECT dropdown. Left it as Select.

      Then rufus instructions I found on the Internet said to next browse to the path where I downloaded the ISO and open it. Using File Explorer, went to Downloads folder and clicked on the .iso file described above. It changed the path to DVD Drive (E:) CCCOMA_X64FRE_EN-US_DV9 which does not exist. What the heck???

      I’m stuck again. Why do these things have to be so hard? What am I doing wrong? HELP!!!

      • #2011599

        I had a similarly perplexing experience with Rufus, getting stuck in the same spots as you.
        Finally got the job done using MCT.

        best of luck

        The duration of a minute depends on which side of the bathroom door you're on.

    • #2011625

      Don’t believe you can get 1903 via MCT any longer, only 1909. Also, could never get MCT method to work either!

    • #2012105

      Using File Explorer, went to Downloads folder and clicked on the .iso file described above. It changed the path to DVD Drive (E:) CCCOMA_X64FRE_EN-US_DV9 which does not exist. What the heck???

      You use SELECT to browse to the ISO you downloaded and select it.
      Then you START the ‘burn’ to your targeted device.

      Image or Clone often! Backup, backup, backup, backup......
      - - - - -
      Home Built: Windows 10 Home 64-bit, AMD Athlon II X3 435 CPU, 16GB RAM, ASUSTeK M4A89GTD-PRO/USB3 (AM3) motherboard, 512GB SanDisk SSD, 3 TB WD HDD, 1024MB ATI AMD RADEON HD 6450 video, ASUS VE278 (1920x1080) display, ATAPI iHAS224 Optical Drive, integrated Realtek HD Audio

    • #2012502

      The saga continues… I think I was finally able to burn the 1903 iso onto a bootable USB drive using heidoc.net and rufus 3.8.1580. I can’t tell for sure what the files are that are on there, however. Anyway, the instructions for this process that I followed recommended that USB be formatted as NTFS, so I did this. However, once I got to the end of the process, rufus popped up a message that to boot from the media I just created requires disabling “Secure Boot.” Then it referred me to a web site that has pages on why this was a good idea and how to do it. Did I make yet another mistake here by not sticking to FAT32? Should I rerun the iso process using that format for the USB?

      • #2012531

        However, once I got to the end of the process, rufus popped up a message that to boot from the media I just created requires disabling “Secure Boot.” Then it referred me to a web site that has pages on why this was a good idea and how to do it. Did I make yet another mistake here by not sticking to FAT32?

        Well yes, this is just Microsoft being difficult for no particular reason, but as a FAT32-formatted drive it should work with Secure Boot on.

        Fun fact: Using a HP diagnostics USB tool (you know, the one that asks for your HP technician ID and a support case number) on a HP PC also often requires turning off Secure Boot.

    • #2012557

      OK. Went back to beginning and deleted all files previously downloaded associated with this process. Then re-downloaded the heidoc.net downloader and then used it to download Win10_1903_V2_English_x64.

      Re-downloaded Rufus 3.8.1580 from their website to Downloads folder.

      Mounted a new 16GB USB with FAT32 file system. Ran Rufus. The screen presented will NOT let me change from NTFS to FAT32, or anything else as NTFS is the ONLY option presented.

      Don’t know what to do now????

      • #2012636

        Can you post a screenshot of Rufus – use Windows Snipping Tool, save as PNG, post?

        cheers, Paul

        • #2013888

          the reason why FAT32 is not an option in Rufus is because the install.wim file in the 64bit Win10 v1903 V2 ISO image is greater than 4Gb [fat32 has that infamous “4gb file size limit”]
          that’s why NTFS has to be used.

          otherwise you will need to either somehow “split” the big install.wim file into smaller SWM files or “compress” the WIM file and convert it from install.wim to install.esd and then you can choose FAT32 because the install.esd file size will be below 4 gigs.

          converting install.wim to install.esd tips mentioned on this site:
          https://www.wintips.org/how-to-convert-install-wim-to-install-esd-or-vice-versa/

          • This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by EP.
          • This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by EP.
    • #2012764

      I made two Snips, #1 showing the screen as it is first displayed when Rufus is started. FAT32 is shown as default. As soon as I click SELECT, navigate to the Downloads folder where the iso is stored, and click on it, File System changes to NTFS and cannot be changed. See Snip #2.

      Unfortunately, I can’t figure out how to enter the images here????

      MODERATOR’S NOTE: Only registered Loungers can attach images, for security reasons
      Add links to online sources, to share anonymously (these will be checked for safety during moderation)

    • #2013797

      I am a “registered lounger” I believe. Been posting many times in the past. Paid contribution to Woody’s. If I’m not, how do I register?

      • #2013801

        You will need to contact customer support with username or email address used to register to confirm whether you are an existing registered user.
        see our FAQ section

        No problem can be solved from the same level of consciousness that created IT- AE
        • #2013822

          I have a user name and password for the Woody’s site. Maybe I’m not entering these forum discussions in the right way. Often, I just click on the link in an email I receive and go to the site and enter information about the thread. Do I need to log in somewhere first?

          • #2013834

            Often, I just click on the link in an email I receive and go to the site and enter information about the thread. Do I need to log in somewhere first?

            If you are clicking on an email link, you definitely have to sign in before posting or you will be anonymous.

            Normally, I log into the AW site first, the one Microfix posted (I always check the Remember me box when signing in) and just leave it logged in and when I get a response in an email to a thread that I have subscribed to, I can just click the link and read/post if I want. At night before shutting down, I log out.

            Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does 🙂
            All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

        • #2013828

          CLUE..Top right hand area of askwoody pages show the way in 🙂
          AW-Login

          No problem can be solved from the same level of consciousness that created IT- AE
    • #2014192

      I would like to thank everyone who has offered advice on how to create a bootable USB containing a 1903 iso. However, after weeks of trying and studying all the suggestions, I have decided to just give up and await a “thumbs up” from Woody on 1909 and then get the download directly from Microsoft Windows Update. All the hassle of HeiDoc.net, Rufus, and NTFS was just too much for me to deal with. :>(

    • #2016249

      Well, I followed Woody’s instructions for Win 10 Pro, not the 3a step which was recommended above for Win 10 Home. I took off my Metered Connection, made sure I was on SAC and changed the deferral for Feature Updates to 180 days as recommended. Then I waited…for over 24 hours. Periodically checked wushowhide but the 1903 upgrade never appeared.

      Not sure what to do now. Further, in closely reading Woody’s instructions they seem to say that  following them will install 1903 rather than having an iso downloaded for future use. He recently advised home users, like me, to continue to stick with 1809. I’m confused…

       

      Regards, Don E.

    • #2016266

      Got a  brandy new laptop yesterday w/ win10 home ver 1809. Dang! Well after staring and restarting, due to removing norton(funny msft n others push defender but then they put norton on oem’s!) adding my own utilities etc, making changes to the default settings etc etc.

      After a day of it( I also upped a dell celeron 4gb home 1809 w/ same 1903 iso- no problems!) I was ready this a.m to get at it again. So 1st  email is funkylink-mismatch-1      (Separate thread.)If you’ll allow I’ll try to tell the rest in pics…

      Pre upgrade

       

    • #2016270

      (cont’d)

    • #2016274

      OK . either you are stopping me or 1903 sucks .

      the upgrade left me with a way to extend patches out 35 days. It is nothing like pro. The whole hedge your bets thing just got hosed by microsoft gremlins it seems.

      Any ideas on how to keep msft out of my sytem longer than 35 days besides metering connection?

      DriftyDonN

      • #2016278

        If your new computer came with Win10 Home, when you upgrade to the next version you will also have Home because your license key is for Home. If you want Pro, you have to buy a Pro license key. Or you have to order the conputer with Pro on it.

        2 users thanked author for this post.
        • #2016279

          See woody’s posts which say he had been urging us to upgrade to pro for the abilities to postpone msft intrusions. In his paraphrased words, we dont need pro now.

          • #2016283

            In Home now, you can Pause updates for up to 35 days. That ability has never been there for Home before. That’s why he says you don’t need Pro now. Becasue you can put off Quality (not Feature) updates for up to 35 days. And you have a “download and install now” section that lets you choose when to install Feature upgrades (instead of MS deciding for you).

            1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #2016402

      He recently advised home users, like me, to continue to stick with 1809. I’m confused…

      Woody advised Home users to upgrade to 1903/1909 for the added new update deferral options in Home versions.
      Woody advised Pro users to stay on 1809 for now.

      You may not receive 1903/1909 due to Microsoft blocking updates to your PC due to software/hardware incompatibility..

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #2141373

      Took your advice and used that ISO several weeks(months?) later. Currently have win10 pro ver1903 ver 18362.592 . Should we dl win10 1909 ISO as hedge also? I recall seeing remarks that the difference is truly minimal but..would this be a good idea?
      Thanks!!!
      DonN

    • #2141407

      If you download the 1909 ISO, and version 2004 is suspect, you may someday be glad to have it.

    Viewing 53 reply threads
    Reply To: Hedge your bets: Download an official, clean copy of Win10 version 1903 (build 18362.356) and save it for a rainy day

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