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  • Help requested for a botched 2004 install

    Home » Forums » AskWoody support » Windows » Windows 10 » Windows 10 version 2004 – May 2020 Update » Help requested for a botched 2004 install

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    #2352718

    Really like that you provide Defense Readiness Condition (DEFCON) status.

    Unfortunately after installing the Windows 10 Home Edition 2004 features update on March 22, the machine boots up but programs crash frequently if they work at all.

    The operating system now has 5 “quality updates” that keep failing to install:
    KB5000802   OS Builds 19041.867 and 19042.867   (it’s current OS Build is 19041.1)
    KB4589212: Intel microcode updates  (it has an Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80Hz)
    KB4601554 Cumulative Update Preview for .NET Framework 3.5 and 4.8  February 24, 2021
    KB4580325: Security Update for Adobe Flash Player: October 13, 2020
    KB4577586: Update for the removal of Adobe Flash Player: October 27, 2020

    Adobe Flashes “end of life” was last year; yet it’s part of this conflicting mess of updates

    Your patch report notes that Conexant audio drivers can be a problem, this machine doesn’t have one.

    Please advise me about next steps. Uninstall updates?

    Thanks in advance for your help recovering from this.

    Best,
    Beth

    Viewing 23 reply threads
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    Replies
    • #2352732

      In advanced PS run DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth It will take some time. Reboot if all goes well and run sfc/scannow in advanced PS

    • #2352749

      it’s current OS Build is 19041.1

      if it’s current OS Build is 19041.1, I believe that was a pre-release version of Win10 2004.

      One thing you can check:
      In the Settings App\Update and Security\Windows Insider Program be sure you are NOT assigned to the Insider program. If you are, choose to opt-out.

      If the suggestion to run DISM and sfc mentioned above do not fix your problem, You can try an upgrade in place. This will entail reinstalling Windows over the top of the current version. You will have the option to keep your programs and data, keep only your data, or keep nothing (a fresh reinstall).

      IMPORTANT: You should make a full disk image backup of your system, and a separate file backup of your data before you go any further. Be sure you have a working bootable Restore disk/USB from your backup software and a bootable Windows Recovery disk/USB.

      To reinstall Windows over the top of your current installation, you will need to download an ISO of Win10 Home v2004. Here are two optinn for doing that:
      + From Heidoc.net – download the Windows ISO download tool. Place it on your desktop and run it. Choose the latest (date) Win10 2004  ISO and download it to your desktop.
      OR
      + Fron Ghacks.net, download the Universal MediaCreationTool, run it and choose Win10 2004. Follow the instructions.

      If you choose to do that, once you have the ISO on your desktop, the install should be done OFFLINE. If you do not disconnect from the network, it will install the latest version (20H2) during the install.
      Right click on the ISO and choose “Open with” File Explorer. It will open as a new drive letter. Navigate to the drive letter and run setup.exe. Choose to keep your programs and data, keep only your data, or keep nothing (a fresh reinstall). When it asks to go online to check for updates, say “No.” You can update after the install is finished.

      If you have any questions, come back here for help.

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #2352842

      Might it just work to uninstall the update? Is it worth a try? The DISM didn’t work. I checked, I’m not in Insider program.

      I do have my data backed up, and could reinstall all my applications if it came to that. The computer’s OS is so messed up, doesn’t appeal to make a full disk image. In addition, I don’t currently have enough external disk space to do it.

      Wanting to check if the heidoc ISO serves the purpose of “Be sure you have a working bootable Restore disk/USB from your backup software and a bootable Windows Recovery disk/USB.”

      Please advise.

      • #2352847

        I had to work on a client’s system that had a “failed” upgrade from 1909 to 2004 a few weeks ago.

        When I ran a “winver” on it, it reported 19041.1, which I had never seen before.

        Since I usually download each month’s updates from the Microsoft Update Catalog, I had the February ones on-hand.

        First, I manually installed the January Servicing Stack Update (SSU KB4598481, the latest in February), then installed the February Cumulative Update, KB4601319. No re-boot is needed after installing the SSU.

        I did this with the system OFFLINE, so the system would not be trying to check for any updates on its own.

        The final result was that it brought the system up to the February update level, and was running OK.

        Then I re-connected the system to the Internet, and used Windows Update Mini Tool (WUMT_x64.exe) to run a check for updates and install other current updates that I wanted installed.

        So, I think if you just try “updating” your system with the “latest” (safe to install…) update, KB4601319, (and the January SSU), both downloaded from the Microsoft Update Catalog, you can get back to a current, functioning system.

        There’s a link to MS Update catalog page for KB4601319 below, be sure to pick the right “bit-ness” for your system, as you did not mention that about your version of Windows 10 2004. You can ignore the “Server” version, and the Dynamic Update version.

        Link to February updates for 64-bit versions of Windows 10 2004:

        https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=kb4601319%20%2B2004%20×64

        Link to the 64-bit “SSU” that needs to be installed before the February Cumulative Update. Again, you can ignore the “Server” version:

        https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=kb4598481%20%2B2004%20×64

        Of course, before installing any updates, be sure to have a full system backup, and a way to restore that backup.

         

        • This reply was modified 7 months ago by SkipH.
        1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #2352844

      Before you do anything more get a backup of your data!

    • #2352889

      Wanting to check if the Heidoc ISO serves the purpose of “Be sure you have a working bootable Restore disk/USB

      That will produce a bootable Windows installation disk, not a backup restore disk.

      Depending on the backup software you use, you should be able to create a recovery disk from within the backup software. If you use Windows backup, a Windows boot / reinstall disk, e.g. from Heidoc, will do.

      cheers, Paul

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #2353123

      I appreciate the many voices responding.
      About being able to restore data, I’ve got plenty of space on the problem computer’s internal D: drive (1TB HHD).
      Is that a safe place to store data on a computer whose operating system is on the C: drive (256GB SSD)?
      Best, Beth

       

       

    • #2353178

      Beth,

      Drive D: is the preferable place to store your data. That way, you can change your OS, programs, etc without endangering data.

      Zig

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #2353183

      Is that a safe place to store data on a computer whose operating system is on the C: drive (256GB SSD)?

      It is a good idea to separate OS from data. Is drive D the safest place ? No. Easiest access, Yes.
      The safest place for your OS and data is creating a full image copy (daily/weekly/monthly) to an external USB HDD disconnected from your PC and connected only when creating the backup.

      1 user thanked author for this post.
      • #2353253

        I agree that’s a preferable place for a backup copy.

        Zig

    • #2353316

      Saving a backup of C: on D: is fine as protection against OS corruption or disk failure, but it does nothing to protect you from machine failure or loss through fire, flood etc.

      You need to copy the backup from D: to an external USB hard disk and store that disk in a safe place away from the computer. I use a small consumer grade fire and water proof safe.

      cheers, Paul

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #2353937

      OK, I’m ready to do more to fix the operating system, now that I have a disaster recovery plan:

      • Data: All backed up in three place: a firebox, an external hard drive, and on another computer.
      • Application Software: I have the ability to reinstall all my software
      • Bootable Recovery Disc: Looked into and decided if it comes to that will take the computer to my repair shop.

      Please let me know your thoughts about what to do next. I see three options:

      1. Use Window’s Uninstall. I’m still within the 10 days Microsoft allows for this. Is there any downside to trying this?
      2. Get the Jan, then Feb updates as SkipT recommends. He mentioned using Windows Update Mini Tool (WUMT_x64.exe) to install further updates . . . how to know which ones?
      3. Get a work around to run Win10_2004_English_x64.iso that I created based on JKCano’s instructions. Currently, File Explorer crashes upon opening.

      Thanks in advance for your help with this.

      • #2353946

        Have you tried the instructions in #2352732above?

        Find Windows PowerShell in the menu
        Right click on it and choose “Run as Administrator
        Copy/paste these two commands at the cursor, one at a time, then press Enter.
        Wait till the first command completes before copying/running the second.

        DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
        sfc /scannow

        Report any errors/messages received.

    • #2353970

      Yes, I tried those instruction before, and they unfortunately didn’t solve the problem.

      Here is what comes from trying them again:

      C:\WINDOWS\system32>DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth

      Deployment Image Servicing and Management tool
      Version: 10.0.19041.1

      Image Version: 10.0.19041.1

      [==========================100.0%==========================]
      Error: 0x800f081f

      The source files could not be found.
      Use the “Source” option to specify the location of the files that are required to restore the feature. For more information on specifying a source location, see https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=243077.

      The DISM log file can be found at C:\WINDOWS\Logs\DISM\dism.log

      C:\WINDOWS\system32>sfc /scannow

      Beginning system scan. This process will take some time.

      Beginning verification phase of system scan.
      Verification 68% complete.

      Windows Resource Protection could not perform the requested operation.

      C:\WINDOWS\system32>

      • #2354006

        Considering that DISM and sfc are giving errors, I would suspect corrupt System files.
        And File Explorer being unusable pretty much limits the use of the ISO.
        You are also having Program crashes, which could be due to the corrupted OS.

        There is a solution I would recommend, but hesitate to do so because, where you have your data backed up, you do not have a full disk image or a bootable Rescue Disk. It would entail doing an in place upgrade to v20H2 over your top of your botched 2004 installation. It will do a fresh installation of Windows 10, and you have the choice of keeping your personal files so you would not have to restore them.

        But here’s how you would do that:
        Go to http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10, and click on “+ Using the tool to upgrade this PC to Windows 10.”
        Follow the numbered instructions.
        Choose “Upgrade this PC now”
        When it asks “Change what you want to keep,” I would suggest “Keep personal files only” since you are having issues with the installed programs as well.
        This should give you a working up-to-date copy of v20H2.
        After it comes back to the login screen, log in and let the computer sit without using it for an hour or so to complete the upgrade.

        You will have to go back over any settings you had changed and reinstall your third-party programs. If you have printer problems, you will also need to install the latest Out-of-Band update. Ask for instructions if you get to that point.

    • #2354208
      Thank you, PKCano for the clear instructions that I could follow.
      After going through them, I was surprised tjr desktop still had software shortcuts; dismayed that the File Explorer still crashes; and baffled that the OS is still v2004 build 19041.1
      I see possible three options to do next:
      1. Use Window’s Uninstall/Recovery. I’m still within the 10 days Microsoft allows for this.
      2. Get the Jan, then Feb updates as SkipT recommended.
      3. Revist   http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10, taking “Update now” path rather than the “Download tool now” path. It would not be difficult for me to reinstall all my data.
      Any thoughts?  Thanks for your continuing help with this.
      • #2354221

        and click on “+ Using the tool to upgrade this PC to Windows 10.” Follow the numbered instructions. Choose “Upgrade this PC now

        That is exactly what I suggested. That should give you v20H2, unless the upgrade failed.

        Type winver in the searchbox and press Enter.
        What is your Edition, version, and Build?

        Look in Settings App\Windows Update\View update history and see if it shows failure to upgrade.

    • #2354329
      PKCano,
      The upgrade yesterday didn’t change the operating system, the computer still has Windows 10 Home v2004, build 19041.1
      This morning I went back to the page you told me about,  http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 and again followed the instruction to upgrade with “Download tool now” four times, each time making some changes:   One that could help others:  <b>log in as Admin</b> (not user).
      Yet, this tool is not working in this situation. Currently the machine has been spinning on “Making sure you’re ready to install” for over an hour.
      On the Windows 10 download page you told me about, there’s an option to “update now” to  20H2, the October 2020 Update, might that get me out of this Windows 10 mess with a fresh Windows 10 operating system?
      • #2354356

        Yes, use that.

        You have to be logged into an ID that is in the Administrators group to do the upgrade. It can’t be a Standard User account.
        When you run the tool after you download it, it takes some time to create the installer on your hard drive. When it is finished creating the installer, it will then ask you if you want upgrade the PC now or create install media for another PC. It is there you make the choice to upgrade the PC now.
        I don’t think you understood how it works. You have to give it time.

        And, when you copy/paste, use the “Text” tab in the entry box instead of the “Visual” and remove the HTML coding.

    • #2354649

      PKCano,
      Am understanding more the slow pace. Yesterday, it took over 2 hours for it to make sure it was ready to install. That install failed.

      Today logged in as Administrator, ran the Media Creation Tool again with some new tricks I learned by reading online about the error messages I’d gotten:

      0x8007025d-0x2000c failed in SAFE_OS phase
      deactivate Antivirus software – you likely mentioned this, I’d missed doing it until today.
      0xc1800103-0x90002
      Delete the SoftwareDistribution\Downloads. There seems to be a variety of ways to do this, perhaps some work better?
      Empty Microsoft Temp directory. Windows key+R, C:$Windows.~BT

      Today’s install attempt ended with the blue screen with 🙁 and some error message I could quite catch.

      The computer still has Windows 10 Home v2004, build 19041.1

      Today, I did tell the installer to keep my programs and data, might not keeping them improve my chances for success?

      Will try again tomorrow, any further tips to improve my chances to install Windows 10 v20H2 would be appreciated.

      • #2354651

        After the troubles you are having, I would suggest taking it back before the 10 days is up. You can keep getting failures, or let them fix it.

    • #2354805

      PKCano,

      It couldn’t go back successfully. It’s like the operating system keeps tripping over itself, falling and failing.

      Gonna let this rest and come back to it on Monday, fresh.

      Enjoy your week end!

      • #2354816

        I would go up to 20H2 and then do an inplace repair over the top.

        What specific software is crashing btw?

        Susan Bradley Patch Lady

        1 user thanked author for this post.
        • #2354820

          That is exactly what I have been recommending.
          Because File Explorer keeps crashing and she cannot get to setup.exe in the downloaded ISO.
          The last recommendation I made was to download the MCT and do the “Update this PC” (would be 20H2 over the top),  but as you see above, that too has failed.

      • #2354865

        Beth?  Can you go into the event viewer and see if there are lots of error messages?  Make sure that the hard drive isn’t throwing off error messages indicating it’s failing?

        Susan Bradley Patch Lady

        1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #2355442

      Thank you, Susan, for bringing up the possibility of a disk failure and for letting me I can check it with Event Viewer. All the recent errors there are related to installation, (see below). My C: (where the OS is) is a SSD that is about 2.5 years old; I did a quick check on the SSD’s service life. For the way I use it, I saw estimates of 5 years and up. So, it doesn’t seem likely that it’s an issue with the functioning of the drive itself.

      Again ran DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth and got the same Error: 0x800f081f. Back in Sept 2019, another AskWoody member was getting this error. bbearrams call it a dot NET error and in post #1951218, he called for the feature .Net Framework 3.5 to be activated.

      On my problem computer, activating Net Framework 3.5 required downloading more files. I checked the status of the dot NET files on a working computer, they are identical to those of the problem computer: the .Net Framework 3.5 is inactive. So, currently activating it doesn’t seem to be a fix.

      Today, the File Explorer did open, so I could see about working with some ISO again (the desktop link to the one I did earlier is gone )

      Thanks for your ongoing help with this.

      Beth

      RECENT ERRORS From the Event Viewer.

      4/5/2021 9:31:28 AMInstallation Failure: Windows failed to install the following update with error 0x8000FFFF: 2021-03 Cumulative Update for Windows 10 Version 2004 for x64-based Systems (KB5000802).
      4/5/2021 9:28:11 AMInstallation Failure: Windows failed to install the following update with error 0x8024200B: 2020-10 Security Update for Adobe Flash Player for Windows 10 Version 2004 for x64-based Systems (KB4580325).

      4/2/2021 12:10:35 PMInstallation Failure: Windows failed to install the following update with error 0x8024200B: 2021-01 Update for Windows 10 Version 2004 for x64-based Systems (KB4589212).
      4/2/2021 12:10:26 PMInstallation Failure: Windows failed to install the following update with error 0x8024200B: 2020-10 Security Update for Adobe Flash Player for Windows 10 Version 2004 for x64-based Systems (KB4580325).
      4/2/2021 12:09:11 PMInstallation Failure: Windows failed to install the following update with error 0x8024200B: Update for Removal of Adobe Flash Player for Windows 10 Version 2004 for x64-based systems (KB4577586).

      4/2/2021 12:08:59 PMInstallation Failure: Windows failed to install the following update with error 0x80246010: 2021-03 Cumulative Update for Windows 10 Version 2004 for x64-based Systems (KB5000802).

    • #2355572

      Given you inability to mount an ISO, or do much else, I can’t see any alternative but to boot from a Windows installation USB and upgrade from there.
      One thing it may do is show up any hardware problems, because the USB version won’t run properly either.

      If you can’t create an installation USB on that machine, can you get a friend to do it?

      cheers, Paul

    • #2355841

      Wouldn’t using a USB also require going into the BIOS and changing the boot order?

    • #2355872

      The ISO should boot even if you have secure boot enabled.  If not, on startup, go to the boot order (F12 on Dells) screen, not setup screen (F2 on Dells) and pick the USB for this boot option.  Turn off the machine completely beforehand (shut down), don’t just restart, then start up with the USB inserted.

      If you used the media creation tool on the MS site (pick the install OS on a different computer option, NOT this computer.  Then you won’t get any bad carryovers, just a clean update.) to make yor ISO, there will be an option to upgrade and keep all your programs when you boot from the USB drive.

      You will get 20H2 now.  There’s little difference from 2004, everything will work.

      Any dependencies, dot net, etc, will be installed if done online.

      I’ve used this method on our 8 laptops and desktops many times.  It’s the most reliable and gives the cleanest results.  There are countless home made and third party methods for upgrading; none are as reliable.  If utilities are involved, move on.  Not getting a blue screen doesn’t mean a “method” is good. 🙂

      Considering what you’ve done so far, I’d definitely recommend using an ISO.  It is possible the OS has been scrambled beyond full repair, too.  Happens to all of us, gotta learn somehow.  Smart that you have a backup.

      DISM and checkdisk/scandisk will show disk errors, error logs are very confusing and can easily be misinterpreted as disk issues.  Windows has a built in disk checking utility.  Right click on C:  in Explorer pick Properties in the menu, then Tools, then Check This Disk for Errors.  Runs the tools above. It’s available for any drive including USB drives.

      Good luck!

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #2356063

      YAY! With your help, looks like I’m almost there.

      I have the computer booted from the 20H2 installation USB.
      Windows Setup is asking if I want to continue with the upgrade by removing the installation media  “YES” or if I want perform a clean install, “No”

      Which do I choose?

    • #2356191

      If you choose “clean install” you will need to reinstall all your software and set up everything again.

      If you choose “upgrade” there should be no need to reinstall anything.

      cheers, Paul

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #2356289

      I’m bogged down again. Wasn’t able to upgrade, so now going for a clean install. Windows Set up asks where do I want to install Windows and give me a list of partitions on the SDD as follows:

      1. Recovery, 529MB
      2. System, 100MB
      3. MSR (Reserved) 16MB
      4. Primary 71.GB

      The only one that would have enough room would be Primary. Is that a good choice?

      • #2356296

        On the “Where do you want to install Windows?” screen, select Drive options (advanced), and then delete the following partitions as followed:

        1. Recovery, 529MB
        2. System, 100MB
        3. MSR (Reserved) 16MB
        4. Primary 71 GB

        To delete a partition, highlight #1, click “Delete partition”, and then click OK.

        Repeat this process for 2, 3 & 4 until you only see “Unallocated Space”.

        After you have deleted the partitions, you will then see “Unallocated Space”. Highlight “Unallocated Space”, and then click Next.

        After that, the clean install of Windows begins.

        That way, if you delete all the partitions as listed above, there will be no Windows.old folder in the C Drive.

    • #2356431

      Primary is the correct location.
      Why do you only have 71GB? Is it an 80GB SSD?

      I suspect the reason you can’t upgrade is a lack of space. Adding an external disk may get you around that problem.
      See this Blog post.

      cheers, Paul

    • #2358243

      ISSUE RESOLVED

      I currently have a fresh install of 20H2. My computer technician explained that even with everything disconnected from my PowerSpec computer’s ASRock motherboard, Windows 10 wouldn’t install. He popped the SSD drive into a functioning computer, did the fresh install there, and then returned the SDD drive to my computer. My computer now boots up nicely with Window 10 v20H2, OS Build 19042.631.

      My sincere thanks to all who chimed in about this; I look forward to engaging further with this valuable online community.

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