How to digitize your 35mm slides (or, how I did it)

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PERSONAL MEDIA By Gary Oddi My first retirement project, nearly 20 years ago, was to digitize my 35mm slides — all 11,000 of them. I started with flat
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fisher75, Norio

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I was wondering whether you also filled in the image metadata with location, subject, date, etc. as you processed each batch?

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Greetings,

No, I don’t deal with such info. My digital images are stored in individual folders with the name or location and year for each specific trip or event. So all the images are in the sequence taken during the trip or event. My main purpose of doing it like this is that I then create audio/visual slide shows using the PTE AV Studio (https://www.wnsoft.com/en/pte-av-studio/) program. So I already know the location, subject and date for each folder containing the images.

If someone is into printing individual image, perhaps that info would be useful. I stopped printing years ago and stick to making audio/visual slide shows with music, text and transitions.

Gary

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Nicely done project I would say!

A great site for projects such as this is http://www.instructables.com .   I recently happened across a similar project but more complete in that the controller box info is included.  You can see it here:

https://www.instructables.com/Automated-35mm-Slide-Digitizer/

Richard

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I’d really urge people AGAINST using an LED lamp as the light source.  The CRI is terrible on cheap lamps and only OK on good lamps.  A halogen bulb has a perfect CRI and will render skin tones properly.  If you need to dim it down, use a neutral density filter on your lens.  Considering cameras are built to shoot outdoors, I’m guessing that you can iris down to compensate for shooting directly into the lens.

Alternatively, you could get a lighting “gel”, like Rocolux 299, neutral density filter to put in front of the lamp.  They are meant to handle the heat of a halogen lamp.  Not directly ON the lamp, bulb but if it’s 1/2″ in front that’ll be fine for a 25W bulb.

I hope that helps.

-Ben

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