Should I upgrade to Windows 10?

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[ChuckR]

I currently run Windows 7 Professional 64bit on a desktop unit.

I have ADW too (Malwarebytes which runs at startup). In Chrome I run( uBlock Origin and Malwarebytes Browser Guard). I also run Microsoft Security Essentials.

I was running a movie site which suddenly loaded up with ADS.  Sysnative support helped cleanup the system. Their suggestion was to upgrade to Windows 10. Home version should be enough?

Questions: What would be replaced with the upgrade so I need a new learning curve, I am 80?

Would I have to run every windows update or are they in the latest version?

Would Google Chrome and Firefox and their extensions run?

Would Malwarebytes, Macrium Reflect, Ccleaner run okay?

Thanks and hope you had a nice Thanksgiving.

• This topic was modified 2 months ago by ChuckR.
• This topic was modified 2 months ago by ChuckR.

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No!

Make an image backup of your system to external USB HDD.
Make a bootable restore USB stick.
Test that you can boot and see both the internal disk and the external backup files.

Relax in the knowledge that you have a working system that can be recovered in half an hour.

You can make extra backups after major updates etc.

cheers, Paul

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WOW. I don’t have an external HDD.  I do have a USB Flash Drive 3.72 gb.

Will Macrium make what you suggest?

You are in territory very new to me after all these years.

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The bootable rescue USB flash drive should be 8-16GB.

You will need a 1-2 TB HDD external drive for the image backups/separate file data backups. You should make an image backup before any major change/update.

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The items you list are way out.  I do image backups of my C: and H: partitions on another internal drive. I didn’t know you could even get a 16gb Flash Drive. Shows how out of current hardware I am.

I assume what you are building here is a backup if the Windows 10 upgrade fails and messes up the system?

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If you have an image backup and a data backup, you can recover if the upgrade from Win7 to Win10 fails. Otherwise, you have lost your data and you have to start from scratch installing Win10.

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@ChuckR:

Here is something you could do if you want to continue with Windows 7 for the forseeable future:

1. Get two big identical hard drives for your computer. Back up your current drive, then restore to one of the new drives. Remove the current drive and store it in a static bag in a safe place. The drive you did the restore to is now your Windows drive, and the drive you store is now a full backup of the system as of that date.

2. Once a month, back up your Windows drive, and restore to the other big hard drive you bought. The other drive is now your Windows drive. Store the drive you backed up in a static bag in a safe place.

So once you get the above system going, you will have achieved the following:
* You will have a complete backup of your system every month.
* You will have two hard drives, which means less wear-and-tear on each drive.
* You will know immediately if your backup was successful, because you will restore to the other drive and test it immediately by putting it into use as your Windows drive.
* You will have a brand new big hard drive in your computer, which means that it will last that much longer before it fails. (If it ever fails, you simply install the other drive and keep on working without skipping a beat.)

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 8.1 running in a VM

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oldfry

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Gentlemen, Thank you for all the information.  I am in no position to get involved with your suggestions and will stay where I am and continue to use Windows 7.  I can understand what you are suggesting, but it is so much and I don’t know how long I would need it.

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You are already making image backups to an internal drive – big tick  🙂
Get an external 2TB HDD and copy the backups from the internal disk to the external disk.
Put the external disk in a safe place, well away from the computer.
Now you have protection from major malware infection / hardware failure / fire / theft etc.

My Macrium boot USB stick is 1GB – the Macrium ISO file is less then 600MB.
Run Macrium and select Other Tasks > Create Rescue Media.
Create an ISO file.
Download Rufus.
Plug the USB stick in (assuming you don’t want the contents).
Run Rufus and burn the ISO to the stick.
Test by booting to the stick and checking that Macrium can see the backup files and the disk containing C.

cheers, Paul

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Paul T

Can you be specific as to what a USB stick 1gb  is?

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Size = 1GB = small by today’s standards.

cheers, Paul

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I just found a Lexar with Macrium_PE. The files are dated 2017 and 2018.

I don’t, of course, remember creating it.  Is this what a Rescue would look like?

It has 3.56 gb free of 3.72 gb.

The file is PE Version 3.0

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The USB should have these files.

cheers, Paul

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The USB from 2018 has most of the files you referenced. Can I point to it with a new Macrium Rescue and have it Update everything? I do not understand the RUFUS and ISO relationship. Is this on a different USB Stick?

You are being helpful, but I need a little more detail on what you are suggesting.

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Rufus is a program designed to create a bootable USB stick from an .iso file. You open Rufus, fill in some choices about what kind of USB stick you want to create (often the default choices are OK), then specify the .iso file you want to create the stick from (from your downloaded files). Rufus does the rest. Then you restart Windows, selecting the new USB stick for the “disk” to boot up from (from your UEFI or BIOS, or from a boot menu at startup). Your USB stick should be at least 16 GB in size before beginning.  All content on the USB will be erased by Rufus during the creation process. Back  up your system first and don’t fear The Reaper. Don’t plead age (I’m 78).

Zig

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ChuckR wrote:

Can I point to it with a new Macrium Rescue and have it Update everything?

I tested this with a 16GB USB stick.
Macrium created a 1GB partition and then copied all the required files.
Then I expanded the USB stick to 16GB and Macrium updated all the files happily.
Both methods create less than 1GB of files so you only need a 1GB USB device.

You do not need to use Rufus, Macrium will do everything for you.

cheers, Paul

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Does this mean, in my case, Macrium will create a bootable Rescue Me partition? I assume

that if I put this in the system before powering on the system will log on from the USB and

replace or run the Windows 7 system.  Now there would be no change to the system but if, heaven forbid, there is a problem with Windows 10 install it would replace Windows 10 on the machine with Windows 7 from the USB.

The next question is my D: which has most of my data files and Programs.  Did you have to copy your data separately or did Macrium handle that also?  I would hope I would have to do nothing and D: would always be there and referenced from either system.

It looks like my 3GB USB drives will be enough.

Have a great day.

 

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Another question? Will version 10 download a Windows 64bit version?

Do you know if Macrium will update the files on the USB and add what it needs?

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Yes, Macrium creates a bootable USB. It will contain all the files Macrium needs to work with that specific machine.

To boot from it you need to tell your PC to boot from USB, not hard disk.
Plug it in and power on. Press the “boot menu” key immediately, several times in quick succession. The key is machine specific but could be Del or F12.
Nothing is replaced when you boot from USB.
Macrium will run and you can choose to restore / replace anything you want.

Macrium backs up whatever you ask it to. If your data is on D, perform a file backup of D.

Windows will install 64bit if you have a suitable machine, unless you specifically select 32bit.

cheers, Paul

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Just to be really clear here, your windows settings and user data are huge files.  For a typical user they will be from 200 to 1000 GB.  To store those, and therefore to have a way to go back to windows 7 if needed, will need a large external hard drive, the smallest size to even consider is 1TB or 1000GB.

The “rescue disk” is only a way to boot from and use the Macrium software.  Without a backup image, huge, on a huge drive, Macrium software will do little for you.

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The following is my system. It looks powerful enough for an upgrade if I choose.
Windows 7 Professional 64bit

CPU
Intel Core i7 930 @ 2.80GHz
Bloomfield 45nm Technology
RAM
12.0GB Triple-Channel DDR3 @ 534MHz (8-8-8-20)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK Computer INC. P6X58D-E (LGA1366)
Graphics
HP ZR24w (1920×1200@59Hz)
3071MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB (EVGA)
Storage
119GB KINGSTON SNVP325S2128GB ATA Device (SATA-2 (SSD))
298GB SAMSUNG HD320KJ ATA Device (SATA )
465GB Western Digital WDC WD5001AALS-00L3B2 ATA Device (SATA )
Optical Drives
TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-S223L ATA Device
Audio
High Definition Audio Device

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My C: on SSD has 46.6 GB free.

My H: on SSD has 18.6 GB free.

My D: on WDC has 404 GB free. Data and most Pgms.

My F: on Samsung has 18.6 GB free. This is for Macrium Backups.

Why would Windows lose the WDC data?

Why would Windows lose the SSD data that is not Operating System Related?

Am I being paranoid about moving to Windows 10?

 

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ChuckR wrote:

The following is my system. It looks powerful enough for an upgrade if I choose.

…But only until Windows 10 EOL on 2025 as your hardware isn’t Windows 11 compatible.

You won’t loose any data during the upgrade.
The process won’t touch any of the other drives.

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As always, make a full backup before the upgrade and make sure you can boot from the backup recovery USB.

cheers, Paul

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Thank you both(Alex and Paul).  I created the USB file with Macrium. I plugged it in and started the computer with no problems. I had checked to be sure an External Drive was looked at before anything else.

From what you said Alex I can download 10 from

http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10%20. and go from there.

I read somewhere that during the install I will be required to purchase a product key. Is this correct?

Thanks again

Another question: Will this process install the latest version of Windows 10? I believe it is 22H2.

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ChuckR wrote:

I read somewhere that during the install I will be required to purchase a product key. Is this correct?

Windows 10 upgrade can use your current Windows 7 product key (providing you have it).

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The key I have has OEM as part of it. It should stand for ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURER. It will be interesting to see if Windows likes this.

Any idea if this will install the latest version of Windows 10, which I believe it is 22H2?

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About 2 months ago I installed Win 10 Pro over an OEM Win 8.1 with no problems. I was never asked for a key of any kind. It just installed.

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You do not need too purchase anything, it is a free upgrade.

You will get a late version of W10, probably not 22H2. When Windows installs the updates – allow a couple of hours – it will update to 22H2.

cheers, Paul

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ChuckR wrote:

I read somewhere that during the install I will be required to purchase a product key. Is this correct?

If it does prompt you for a key during the install, simply click “I don’t have a product key” at the bottom of the screen and it’ll use your existing Win 7 key.

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Thanks to ALL. Today should be the day.

Question:  Is it a good idea for me to turn off Macrium, Malwarebytes, CCleaner, uBlock Origin, Malwarebytes Browser Guard before starting the new install?

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Thanks to ALL. Today should be the day.

“A day that will live in infamy.”

Zig

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Thanks.  Any ideas on my question to shut down those applications?

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I use some but not all of those apps and didn’t bother to turn any of them off before I updated my Win 7 to Win 10 and didn’t encounter any problems.

BTW, uBlock Origin and Malwarebytes Browser Guard only run when a browser is active, so turning them off isn’t really necessary.

As for Macrium, Malwarebytes and CCleaner, it really depends on whether they’re set to auto-run when Windows starts. If not, turning them off also isn’t really necessary.

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ChuckR wrote:

Thanks to ALL. Today should be the day.

Question:  Is it a good idea for me to turn off Macrium, Malwarebytes, CCleaner, uBlock Origin, Malwarebytes Browser Guard before starting the new install?

You only need to disable any A/V software running.
Install while disconnected from the Internet.
After installing change setting for Telemetry, Windows updates, start menu… and only then reconnect to the Internet and run Windows Update (use WUmgr app).

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I drew a blank on A/V software. I don’t run anything special connecting to the internet.

 

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Bad News. I tried to run MEDIACREATIONTOOL22H2 as Administrator and received the following error code 0x80072f8f -0x20000 so I turned off Malwarebytes.  I’m guessing this only runs after I have Windows 10 installed? Where can I get the Update exec? What I ran came from https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

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There is no update exe to install any version of Windows!

If the media creation tool didn’t work, you’ll need to download the ISO and create an install USB.

The easiest way to do this to to use Rufus which can directly download the ISO as part of it’s USB creation process.

Just FYI, the media creation tool downloads the same files used by the ISO to install Windows (they get stored in a temp location) but, since error code 0x80072f8f indicates a problem downloading the files from the internet, the ISO may work just fine.

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I won’t be able to look into this until Friday.

If RUFUS does create an ISO how does this get executed to do the Windows 10 install?

Thanks

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You boot from the RUFUS stick and install Windows.

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RUFUS doesn’t create the .iso – you download that from Microsoft. RUFUS burns the .iso file to create a bootable installation stick.

Zig (I told you this day would live in infamy.)

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Actually, Rufus includes the ability to download the ISO during the creation process.

Simply select download.

Then click the download button to get the following popup.

Select which ISO you want, which specific build (i.e. Win10 1507 thru 22H2), language, x64 or x86 and it’ll download it and create a bootable install USB for that version.

It even includes some special options for Win10 & 11 that allow you to disable some of the “default” installation settings such as having to create a Microsoft account or send telemetry data back to Microsoft.

Easy peasy!

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Fritz

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To upgrade you should download the ISO, mount it in Windows 7 (you need a 3rd part app like WinCDEmu) and then run the installer.
The installer will see W7 and offer to upgrade.

cheers, Paul

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Confusion: Are RUFUS and WinCDEmu both needed to try the install again?  I see good information on RUFUS but it seems to stop at creation of a USB.  Does this mean I would power down, install the USB which will automatically try and update my Windows 7 with the ISO file it created?

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Only RUFUS should be necessary. You create the USB stick with RUFUS (all pre-existing data on the stick will be erased in the process), then reboot FROM THAT STICK by setting the appropriate choice from the startup menu when you boot up. ?Do you know how to get  to the boot menu to select the USB stick??

Zig

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I checked bios/boot and it checks external source before harddrives. This was tested when I tested a USB with Windows 7 created by Macrium.

Should this procedure correct the error code which ALEX5723 says came from the attempt to download data from the internet.  He also said I should not connect to the Internet during this process.  Booting from the USB should remove any need for external data, I ASSUME.

If there is, for some reason, an error,  Windows 7 should still boot from C: or the USB referenced above.

Are there any ideas why the error code if in fact it was caused by data download?

Thanks guys. I am off to other Activities but will try RUFUS tomorrow.

I may have had some Chrome change as a result of the first try.  1: Change background. 2: Tabs to change windows.

Also, a change to LastPass.

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ChuckR wrote:

Should this procedure correct the error code which ALEX5723 says came from the attempt to download data from the internet. He also said I should not connect to the Internet during this process.

That would explain the 0x80072f8f error you got using the media creation tool indicating it couldn’t connect to the internet!

The media creation tool downloads all the files required to update your PC to Win10 from the internet into a temp directory on your PC and then kicks off the install using those files.

If you’re disconnected from the internet when you run the media creation tool, the update will always fail!

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As you know, I have Windows 7 Professional 64bit installed. Your discussion on RUFUS indicates I can select many options.  My question: How do I select Home Version?

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Do NOT boot from the W10 USB. You must run the installer (setup.exe) from within W7.

You can burn the ISO to USB with Rufus and then use Explorer to view the USB and run the installer.
Or, mount the ISO directly in Windows with WinCDEmu.

cheers, Paul

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Paul, you mention run the installer.  I am assuming RUFUS creates this on the USB.

If the installer is on the USB, what would be the advantage of getting WinCDEmu after RUFUS created the USB and downloaded the ISO?

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Do NOT boot from the W10 USB. You must run the installer (setup.exe) from within W7.

OOOH – He’s right! I misspoke, forgetting you wanted to keep your old programs & settings. Sorry.

Zig

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Zig, are you saying that after RUFUS creates the bootable USB with the ISO file, that booting up with that would WIPE OUT everything in my system?  Boy, does that scare.

I am assuming that I create the USB from RUFUS which will have the ISO on it.

I then run WinCDEmu which will point to the USB and execute installing the ISO WITHOUT

wiping out my system.

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See PKCano’s reply – he’s explained it in detail, and I agree. I’ve never used RUFUS to download the .iso file to be installed, so I can’t comment about the choice of Win 10 versions. My usual procedure is to download the version I want to my computer as an .iso file, then “point” to that file when running RUFUS.

Zig

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Still clarify, Does RUFUS give the choice of Win 10 Version also?

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ChuckR wrote:

Still clarify, Does RUFUS give the choice of Win 10 Version also?

Yes it does.

After you select DOWNLOAD and click it, the window that pops up takes you thru a “series” of choices that allows you to specify the exact version and language you want it to download with the final selection for Win10 22H2 looking like this.

Each one of the “grayed out boxes” you see in the above image is a “drop-down” where you select what you want as you go thru the process.

Click the DOWNLOAD button at the bottom of that windows to start downloading the ISO (which can take a while depending on how fast your internet connection is.)

Once it finishes downloading and is ready to create the bootable USB, click the START button at the bottom and you’ll get this popup with some extra options (already checked by default) to customize your Windows install.

Note, if you select Win11 instead of Win10, there’ll be two additional options at the top of that window.

• Remove requirement for 4GB+ RAM, Secure Boot and TPM 2.0
• Remove requirement for an online Microsoft account

Click OK and Rufus will complete the process of placing the ISO onto the USB.

Then simply run the setup.exe file that’s in the root directory of that USB to install Windows.

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An ISO is not the installer. Windows is composed of thousands of files. When you download Windows, you don’t want to download of thousands of individual files. So those files are compressed into ONE large conta1ner file called an ISO.

The Rufus USB is equivalent to the CDs/DVDs that were used of old to install Windows. It basically the same function as those CD/DVD disks.

Talking about the CDs/DVDs, when you put them in the drive and booted the computer from the CD drive, it did a CLEAN INSTALL of Windows on the computer. That means it removed everything from the drive and installed the Windows Operating System from the ISO contents on the CD by expanding the ISO to the thousands of files that make up the Windows OC. A clean install is not what you want to do.

What you want is an UPGRADE that will preserve your Programs and Data but will replace the Windows OS files only. You do that by starting your computer in Win7, then inserting the USB drive. The USB drive appears in File Explorer as another drive letter. Open that drive letter, find the setup.exe file and double click on it. This will start an UPGRADE that will give you the choice to KEEP YOUR PROGRAMS AND DATA. If you choose to do that, it will not wipe your HDD and you won’t lose your stuff.

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Reading your info(PKCano, Alejr) it seems that everything is on the USB after RUFUS to update Windows 10 ONLY.  The USB will have the ability to NOT mess with my data and applications. IS THIS GUARANTEED?

Thanks for a much clearer picture of the process.

Where does WinCDEmu come into the picture?  Earlier there was a 2 step process.

 

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The USB will have the ability to NOT mess with my data and applications.

Only if you install (upgrade) Win 10 from within Win 7. By this, I mean boot into Win 7, then run the install program from the USB disk. This was the point PKCano was making.

I presume you have made a FULL backup of your System disk and ALSO one of all your data by now (before proceeding).

Zig

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The Windows 10 download contains everything you need to install Windows on any system, new, old, clean install or upgrade. How you run the installer (setup.exe) determines what you will be offered.

You want to upgrade an existing system so the Windows installer needs information about that system. It can only get this if you boot W7 and run the installer from within W7.

You do NOT need WinCDEmu.

Make an image backup of your W7 disk and a recovery USB. Check you can boot from the recovery USB and see both the internal disk and the image backup.
You now have a guaranteed way to recover from any issues.

Create the USB with Rufus.
Use Explorer to view the USB and run setup.exe.
Follow your nose to the Upgrade option and let us know what you are offered before commiting.

cheers, Paul

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It’s been 2 weeks; time to stop cutting bait. Make your backups and get on with it.

Zig

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I will when I am finished with a doctor taking care of the accident. 12 stitches and other unpleasant results.

There is still a reference to making a backup of data. I have approx. 200 gb on (C: H:) SSD and D: on Western Digital.

I have a USB with Macrium Rescue.  I do not have a large enough USB for data.

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Do NOT use the rescue USB for backup.
Use an external USB HDD – 2TB ones are cheap.

Run Windows normally.
Plug in the external HDD.
Run MR and tell it to make image backups of all disks and put the backup on the external HDD.

cheers, Paul

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Agree with Paul (MR is, I presume, Macrium Reflect).

??WHAT ACCIDENT??

Zig

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At 80 I lost an argument with a floor.  Would Best Buy have a 2TB external HDD?

Yes, I have Macrium Reflect. Is there a way to have it backup the SSD and HD at the same time?  I have always seen it wants them individually SSD then HD. I am sure they can both be put on the HDD without killing the previous backup( correct)?

Thanks.

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The computer’s SSD is what you backup.
The external HDD is where you put that backup.
You don’t backup the External HDD too. It is the storage place for the backups.

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How much space should the RUFUS activity take?  I still have a 3.2gb USB available.  This is NOT where the Macrium Rescue is.  I hope the doctor will release me so I can see about getting the 2tb external HDD.

slowly moving along.

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A Windows 10 install USB requires 5GB I think, so while you are getting your external drive you should get a 16GB or larger USB drive if you want to install Windows 10 from USB.

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ChuckR wrote:

How much space should the RUFUS activity take?

My “Rufus created” Win10 22H2 install USB shows it used 6.12GB of my 64GB USB stick.

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You do not need a USB for the ISO. You can mount the ISO directly in Windows after installing WinCDemu.
If you don’t have a spare USB, mount direct.

cheers, Paul

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I believe he means to b/u the internal HDD.

Zig

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ChuckR wrote:

backup the SSD and HD at the same time

In MR, select Backup > Image Selected Disks.
Make sure both internal disks are selected.
Choose / create a folder on your external disk.
Go!

Bestbuy 2TB disk. $65

cheers, Paul

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Clarification: RUFUS is to be put on a separate USB stick at least 16gb. A Macrium Reflect copy of my C: H: D: partitions require a 2 tb external hdd.

The results are 2 purchases.

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Is RUFUS put on the 16gb USB and executed from there?

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Use a 16GB USB. Use Rufus to download the Win10 ISO and create installation media.

See #2505943 above about how to upgrade your computer keeping your programs and your data.

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Run RUFUS from your desktop, pointing to the USB stick as “Device” (use “list USB hard drives” if there is any confusion).

Zig

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The doctor has cleared me to start life again. I’ll get the 16gb USB stick and the 2tb external hdd. Then I’ll image copy to the 2tb all my drives. This will give me a copy of my system and I’ll have the Rescue USB to start my system in Windows 7.

I’ll then place the 16gb in the system and download and run RUFUS. Somewhere I get to point RUFUS to the 16gb USB to build the Windows 10 ISO and place a startup.exe on it.

Question:  Where is it that I point RUFUS to the 16gb to store its build? I assumed I run RUFUS and somewhere it points its output to the 16gb USB.

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ChuckR wrote:

Question: Where is it that I point RUFUS to the 16gb to store its build? I assumed I run RUFUS and somewhere it points its output to the 16gb USB.

Take a look at the first image in my post# 2504513.

The drop-down labeled Device is where you select the USB it’ll use for the ISO image.

Note: it’ll “automatically” select the first removable USB device it sees so, if that’s the wrong one, you’ll need to change it.

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Rufus lets you download the ISO and will ask where you want to store it, then it will allow you to burn it to USB (we still call it burning even though CDs are no longer a thing).

The important thing to remember is NOT to boot from the USB, run the update from within W7.

cheers, Paul

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Do I download RUFUS and place it on the 16gb and run from there?

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Sorry Paul I did not read your last information. When RUFUS asks where to put the ISO is that the time it also puts the setup.exe on the USB so only the system is upgraded?

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ChuckR wrote:

Do I download RUFUS and place it on the 16gb and run from there?

No! You have to run it from your PC.

ChuckR wrote:

When RUFUS asks where to put the ISO is that the time it also puts the setup.exe on the USB so only the system is upgraded?

Setup.exe is not part of Rufus, it’s IN the Windows ISO Rufus downloads and burns to the USB!

Also, your question “seems” to indicate you’re thinking of it as a standalone Windows updater. It’s not! It only works if all the other files from the ISO are also present on the USB in their proper locations.

The difference between whether setup.exe upgrades your system and “keeps your existing S/W & data” or “completely replaces everything” depends on exactly how you use the USB.

If you boot your PC using the USB, it’ll automatically run setup.exe but the upgrade process will replace your old OS (i.e. you’ll lose all your existing S/W & data.)

To keep your existing S/W & data, you must plug the USB into your PC with the old OS “up & working” and run setup.exe from the USB (it’ll be in the root directory of the USB.)

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Tomorrow looks like purchase date of the 2TB and 16GB devices. I will then run Macrium Reflect to do a complete backup of my SSD and HD .

I will then download RUFUS and execute it under Windows 7. When it is done running, I will place the results on the 16gb stick.

I will then tell you guys what I have on the stick as requested earlier. If it looks fine, I will run the setup.exe on the stick to install Windows 10 while logged on in Windows 7.

How is this for a scenario?

Before this I will have a USB stick with Macrium Rescue and the 2TB complete image backup. This will allow me to boot Windows 7 if anything goes wrong–Correct?

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RUFUS will put the appropriate files on the USB stick.

Zig

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I looked for the RUFUS site and found //rufus.ie/en/

Is this the correct site for the download?

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Yes.

--Joe

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ChuckR wrote:

I will then download RUFUS and execute it under Windows 7. When it is done running, I will place the results on the 16gb stick.

As Zig pointed out above, Rufus puts all the needed files onto the USB stick when you run it.

DO NOT replace them with anything else!

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Getting ready to buy a 2tb EasyStore at Best Buy.  In searching it, I found there are 2 exec files.

One mentions MAC which I assume is for Apple.  The other seems to be Windows.

What are these for and will I need to do anything with them except maybe remove the from the drive?

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A lot of external drives come with some kind of backup software on them. Typically, these will back up data files (documents, pictures, videos, etc.) rather than the whole system.

If you have no need for these backup programs, it’s probably safe to delete them. But I tend to simply ignore them, as they don’t take up that much space and who knows when they might come in handy.

 

Keep Running Windows 7 Safely for Years to Come  
Make Windows 10 look and work like Windows 7

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Leave them there and ignore them

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I have the 16gb and 2tb storage.  I will remove the .exe files. I will backup my SSD and HD which contain everything for Windows 7 on the 2tb. I will then insert the 16gb and run RUFUS under my Windows 7. I will then send a reply identifying everything RUFUS put on the 16gb.

If everything looks good to the support you have given me, I will run setup.exe and hope all is updated.

I will do this tomorrow unless my wife has MORE SHOPPING.

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I removed the .exe apps on the 2tb and ended up with a $Recycle Bin file which, when I tried to remove it, said it could mess up Windows 7. The Macrium backup of C: H: D: went fine. The results is a very small usage of the 2tb space.

RUFUS is the next activity, actually shopping is next. When does RUFUS put its data on the 16gb? I know I run it on Windows 7.

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ChuckR wrote:

I ended up with a $Recycle Bin file which when I tried to remove it said it could mess up Windows 7

You can empty $Recycle Bin, but never try to remove it.

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Why are there so many $Recycle Bin files in the system. I have at least 3 I found besides the new one on the 2tb. One of them has a very long number in the $Recycle.Bin on the C:. S-1-5-21-4060470119-733395135-3709892937-500 created March 4, 2021. I am not allowed to look at it or delete it.

I guess I am ready to plug in the 16gb. Run Rufus and have it place the necessary files on it.

Have a nice holidays.

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Problem starting RUFUS. I got the DRIVE panel but it ONLY had the SELECT option. It did not have the DOWNLOAD option available, which from previous information, is what I need to choose to keep all my files/pgm’s/ etc.  See #2504513 as example.

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I ran RUFUS again and BOOT SELECTION had multiple selections but the default of (Disk or ISO image) seems to be correct. There is a check mark I can’t uncheck and only SELECT is available. I am using Version 3.21.1949 of RUFUS.

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The SELECT option is a drop-down.

You need to click the arrow on the right side and change it from SELECT to DOWNLOAD.

Once it shows DOWNLOAD, click it to start the process of selecting the specific version of Windows you want to download.

Instructions on exactly how to use Rufus (with pictures) can be found here.

Note: the instructions are for creating a Windows 11 install USB; simply replace Windows 11 with Windows 10 at those steps.

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ChuckR wrote:

Why are there so many $Recycle Bin files in the system

Each drive has its own Recycle bin where deleted files are kept (so you can restore them in case of wrong delete).
Double clicking on recycle bin will open the folder and show the files inside.
You can empty all recycle bins by right clicking on the recycle bin icon on the desktop and select ’empty recycle bin’

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Nonetheless, I wouldn’t delete the .exe files that came with the drive (at least for Windows). You can restore them from the Recycle Bin. Not much space occupied by them. Just my 2 cents.

Zig

 

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That is the issue. There is NO Arrow to select either SELECT or DOWNLOAD. I will check tomorrow and see if SELECT points to an ISO file already on the machine.

It would be Windows 7 and, if there is, I will either rename or delete it.

Do you think this could be why there is no Download capability?

Couldn’t sleep so I checked for an *.iso file. Sure enough there is one Rescue.iso with a creation date of 1/23/2017 ad it was accessed 7/26/2020. I have no idea where this came from.

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OK;

?does your RUFUS look like this???

Zig

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ChuckR wrote:

That is the issue. There is NO Arrow to select either SELECT or DOWNLOAD.

You must have an “active” internet connection when you start Rufus to get the DOWNLOAD option!

It also takes a few seconds for the arrow to appear (I “assume” that’s because it has to verify it can connect to the servers used to download the ISO’s.)

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I DO have a connection. I ran it with Chrome running. I am going to try tomorrow with the ISO file renamed to RESCUE.ISOOLD. I am also going to exit CCleaner and Malwarebytes before trying it.

Hope you are having a Nice Holiday.

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I just ran NetWatcher and it showed ASUSTEK and TP-LINK. My COX modem died and they installed a Cox Panoramic Router/Modem (with no information). The TP-Link is connected to the Cox so my wife is able to connect to the Internet. All is fine as she connects and as you see I connect.  The screen you showed is what I get with a lot more information.  At 6:30 Pacific time, I am in Vegas, I will try RUFUS again as mentioned in my last reply.

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I just turned off Chrome and changed the .ISO file to .ISOOLD. There was NO CHANGE to the results of RUFUS. Any ideas what blocks RUFUS from DOWNLOAD? There are NO error messages that I can find.

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Ok, this is really strange, but here’s how to fix your problem and get the DOWNLOAD option to appear.

Open Rufus

1– Click the settings icon on the lower left
2– Set “Check for updates” to Daily (Default)

Click the Close button twice to shutdown Rufus and then restart it.

The DOWNLOAD option should now appear after a few seconds.

Found this suggestion in a YouTube video and have absolutely no idea why it works, but I tired it out on my own Rufus and, with “Check for updates” disabled, the DOWNLOAD option never appears!

 

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Okay, next issue. I did what you suggested and RUFUS created an ISO. It wanted to know where to put it but I messed up, I think, and put it on my D: drive. Should I move it to the 16gb? I also DO NOT see a setup exec. RUFUS has  START lit, but I am worried this will wipe out everything.

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As was pointed out previously, setup.exe is NOT part of Rufus! All Rufus does is create a bootable Windows install USB using the specific Windows version ISO you told it to download.

Setup.exe is part of the Windows install software contained IN that ISO and will be in the root directory of the USB once Rufus finishes creating it.

BTW, Rufus doesn’t actually DO anything until after you press the START button so, if you haven’t done that yet, then nothing’s been changed on any of your drives.

Also, as I pointed out in my post #2511333, there are very clear instructions on how to use Rufus (including pictures) located here.

I would VERY STRONGLY SUGGEST you read thru them before proceeding any further to make sure you fully understand how to use Rufus to properly create your bootable Windows install USB.

As I also pointed out in the same post, those instructions “assume” you want to create a Windows 11 install USB. Since you want a Windows 10 install USB instead, you’ll need to replace Windows 11 at those particular steps with Windows 10.

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Cybertooth

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I tried to copy the ISO from the D: 5,969,910kb to the USB which has 14.3gb free. The copy said the .iso was to large to copy.  It seems I will have to delete the iso and point to the USB when RUFUS asks where to put it. I will close RUFUS and start again. I am reading the document you pointed me to and haven’t gotten to where it tells me how to get to  the setup.exe.

Hope you had a nice holiday so far.

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I am re-creating the .iso and putting it on the USB stick. I read the doc you pointed me to but it says nothing about the setup.exe. It seems to say click START to get to other Windows 11 selections.

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This is a mess. I started the download and when it asked where I chose the G: which is the USB stick. It started the download and got maybe 3/4 of the way before it said there wasn’t enough space. This is crazy. What do I do now? I have to go out this afternoon. Hope to have a solution when I get back.

 

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Chuck,

DON’T put the .iso on the USB stick; put it where you can find it on your HDD. Then run RUFUS and point it to the .iso file on the HDD. If you are not able to do this, post a screenshot of your RUFUS screen here, so we’ll know what you’re seeing.

Zig

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ChuckR wrote:

it said there wasn’t enough space

Format the USB to NTFS (not Fat32 with 4GB file size limit) before running Rufus

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Cybertooth

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As zig pointed out, you need to save the ISO onto one of your main drives not the USB, but you don’t need to click SELECT and point Rufus to where it was saved. Once the download is complete, Rufus “automatically” selects the ISO it just downloaded as the source and will highlight the START button to begin the process of creating the bootable USB.

You also don’t need to format the USB before running Rufus. Rufus actually formats the USB during the creation process so any existing format is completely meaningless!

All the other options can be left at their default settings, as shown in this screen shot of Rufus “immediately” after it’s finished downloading the ISO for Win10 22H2; except maybe the actual Volume Label for the USB.

I like to name mine for the specific version of Windows [i.e. Win10 22H2(19045_2364) for the latest update] so I’ll know exactly what it’s for whenever I insert that USB.

Once it’s actually created the USB, just use explorer to locate setup.exe on the USB and run it to update your Win7 to Win10 (you “might” want to reboot to ensure no Win7 process is still running that could interfere with the update process.)

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geekdom

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Great information. QUESTION: I don’t remember how to format the USB stick to NTFS as you are correct that it shows as FAT32. From what was said, what I thought was a mistake of putting the ISO on my D:, which is a local drive, was okay.

I just found the Format for the USB stick and it will now have NTFS  file system with 4096 unit size.

If this is correct, I will run RUFUS and get the .iso  again.

Then I will read what directions I was given and place it on the stick. I will then find the setup.exe in the iso on the USB so I can finally upgrade to Windows 10.

Wish me luck and all the best to everyone who is helping me.

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Messy thread, the formatting of this forum really needs an update.

In any case, I will just add that the problem you are trying to solve: advertisements showing up on some video site; has nothing to do with your operating system and there is no guarantee that upgrading to Windows 10 will solve it.

If you have not used Windows 10 in the past, you may now be greeted by new headaches of learning its quirks, while still running into advertisements when you browse the web because the operating system is irrelevant.

You may have simply needed to update uBlock Origin, or add filters to it for those advertisements. As good as uBlock is, it cannot be aware of every advertisement in existence, and so you could have manually blocked them until uBlock adds those advertisements to the filter lists you subscribe to.

 

As for you ISO troubles, the ISO file is a blueprint. RUFUS uses it as a reference to create files and folders on the USB. You will never deal with the ISO file yourself, it is only used by RUFUS. When RUFUS is finished its work, your USB will have a regular folder structure with a setup.exe file in it. You will not see an ISO file on the USB, just as you do not see a blueprint of your house on your property, you are only left with the house.

Personally, I see no reason for you to upgrade, and if you have no one to setup your new Windows 10 installation for you, I think you will be a bit lost with the UI changes. Plus you’ll be enjoying a whole slew of new telemetry along with all kinds of active elements you never asked for. Cortana, the weather widget, the screensaver factoids and notifications being the first prime suspects for me, not that the Start Menu itself is any better with its myriad of metro buttons, plus fighting with Windows update.

No, I have yet to be convinced of anything good in Windows 10. I even made a topic on the subject in these forums and I never got an answer that was meaningful to me.

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It is now official, I have installed Windows 10 Pro (system choice, not mine).

CORMY1. You are absolutely correct that Windows 10 is such a departure from Windows 7 that it will take a long time to figure it out.

I haven’t been able to even figure out how to look into my C: or D: disks when trying to figure out what happened to my bookmarks or how to build a Home page in Chrome or Edge.

Question: is there a preference for Chrome, Edge or Firefox in Windows 10?

Thanks again for all the support.

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geekdom, Alex5723

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ChuckR wrote:

It is now official, I have installed Windows 10 Pro (system choice, not mine).

That’s because you upgraded to Windows 10 from Windows 7 Pro.

As for the issue of how different Win10 is from Win7, there are plenty of free 3rd party solutions available to change Win10’s appearance & functionality so it’s more like Win7.

I also upgraded from Win7 Pro to Win10 Pro and the main ones I use, in no particular order, are:

• Open-Shell (changes the Start Menu and Explorer to look/function like prior versions of Windows)
• Winaero Tweaker (LOTS of Windows tweaks no longer available via Windows settings)
• Ultimate Windows Tweaker (another batch of Windows tweaks no longer available via Windows settings)
• 7+ Taskbar Tweaker (all the “old” Taskbar settings no longer available via Taskbar settings)
• O&O Shutup10++ (anti-spyware tool that disables the majority of Windows Telemetry reporting back to MS)
• RibbonDisabler (turns off the new Explorer “ribbon” and restores the old-style menu bar)

Of course there are lots of other alternatives as well; simply search the AskWoody forums and you’ll find lots of examples and suggestions.

BTW, welcome to the Win10 family!

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Chuck,

Another plan would be to spend a week or two getting used to the Win 10 interface in its native state before considering using the above mentioned programs to replicate the Win 7 look-and-feel. Remember, in about 3 years, support for Win 10 will be curtailed and you may choose to go to Win 11 at that time (now that you know how). Consider this whole adventure as a learning experience and explore the new User Interface (you can always change it later).

Oh, and another thing – BACKUP your new installation. NOW.

Zig

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wavy

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List of issues now that I am in Windows 10

1: When I log in I get the Admin instead of Chuck. It was Chuck before and I am suspicious there may be a better login. I sort of find it, but can’t find how to make it the default.

2: Last night I COULD NOT find where to shutdown the system. I ended up powering it down.

3: I am still looking for my Win 7 bookmarks. Occasionally Google wants to import from FireFox. I will open FireFox and see what it has.

4: How do I turn off CORTANA? I don’t want to talk to anyone on the computer unless it’s to track down a problem.

Thanks

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Chuck,

2. Windows key in bottom left corner: Right-click and select Shut Down or Sign Out, or Left-click (or just press Windows key on your keyboard) and select Power.

3. I don’t remember Win 7 making or keeping bookmarks – perhaps you’re confusing them with Firefox bookmarks.

4. Is Cortana on and in-your-face by default? I believe most of the world agrees with you about Cortana.

??Have you made a backup (or 2) yet??

Zig

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ChuckR wrote:

4: How do I turn off CORTANA? I don’t want to talk to anyone on the computer unless it’s to track down a problem.

One of the many tweaks available in Winaero Tweaker is the ability to disable Cortana.

You’ll note from the above screenshot that I disabled it on my system.

Just FYI, Cortana isn’t just the voice interface. If you disable it, the “search box” also stops working.

BTW, Winaero does not automatically apply any tweaks when you install it. Everything remains at its “default setting” until you actually decide to change it. It also includes an option to “Reset all tweaks…” to restore the original Windows 10 default settings.

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Forgot to ask. Do you run Chrome?  I will run the Full backup with Macrium Reflect tomorrow. Backups must be kept by Chrome or FireFox.  I certainly hope they exist.

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Backups must be kept by Chrome or FireFox. I certainly hope they exist.

I don’t use Macrium (I use EaseUS), but I don’t understand the meaning of either of these sentences.

Zig

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I closed Chrome. Went to the main screen which has programs on the left and other stuff on the right. There is nothing on the left indicating a Windows Key. I will try a search, but it looks like a power down again.

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Chuck,

Carefully reread Zig’s answer no. 2. The Windows key on your keyboard and the Windows/Start icon in the taskbar are identified by the 4-paned window symbol.

You can get Cortana out of your face by right-clicking the Taskbar and unchecking the line labelled Show Cortana button. While you’re at it you may want to calm down some other annoyances. For Search, you may want to keep it simple by choosing just Show search icon. Similarly, for News and interests, you may well want to select Turn off.

You will need to carefully explore the Settings, where you will find many functions that used to live in the Control Panel.

HTH. Regards, Phil

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I went to the START settings in the upper right corner and clicking with the right mouse button showed the shutdown or sign out option.

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Another thing for you to consider…

By default, Windows 10 enables Fast Start (i.e. it puts the system into a “special” sleep mode instead of really shutting it down) which allows it to restart in a matter of seconds. However, that can cause problems, particularly on laptops where the battery may die if you don’t recharge it regularly.

Since your system is a desktop, the battery won’t be an issue, but it still might matter to you because the system will always restart with the same programs running and the same memory in use it had when it was shutdown.

The problem is, if “any” of the info stored on the drive while it was asleep gets corrupted, it can cause some “extremely weird” and hard to diagnose symptoms after it restarts.

My own personal preference was to disable Fast Start so when I select shutdown, it really does shutdown my system!

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Cybertooth

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Great news I hope. It went to sleep and when it woke up it was different. It gave me a choice of logging in as Admin or Chuck. I chose Chuck as that is what I used with Windows 7. It then came up with the Windows 7 layout and information. Opening Chrome gave me all my bookmarks.

I don’t have a Microsoft keyboard, I have an IBM keyboard from the days I worked there, so there’s no Windows Key.  I unchecked the CORTANA button. Does this actually remove CORTANA?

I can’t find News and interests and can’t find Fast Start.

I do have 2 desktop.ini files. Should I remove one?

Also, how can I be sure CHUCK is always chosen in case I don’t get a choice with normal Boot?

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I gave Chuck Administrator authority.  Hope the next time I log in I will be able to clear up anything suggested.

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I was reminded of this today (Win 7 vs. Win10 vs. Win 11):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCguAlvJBqQ

Zig

 

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That is very funny.  Thanks.

I found Fast Start setting and un-checked it. I still can’t find the other settings yet.

It did come up CHUCK with the Windows 7 layout.

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I was searching and found Apps, there are 71. I tried to uninstall, as an example Camera, but the options were greyed out. Cortana was the same. Does this mean they are not active?

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Right Click on the Taskbar and choose Task Manager.
If you can’t see a bunch of tabs, click on “more details.”
Click on the “Startup” tab at the top.
In the “Status” column you can disable Cortana and anything else you don’t want to startup.

Be careful. You DO NOT want to uninstall the Microsoft Store.

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Alex5723

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ChuckR wrote:

Does this mean they are not active?

Nope! It means Microsoft didn’t provide a “built-in” ways of uninstalling them because they assume everyone will want to use those particular apps!

As pointed was out, there is 3rd party S/W that will allow you to remove them but there’s a extremely important caveat, removing some of them, like the MS Store, will cause problems with how Windows functions, including issues with not being able to install some updates!

I removed the following apps from my own Win10 Pro without any adverse effects:

Alarms
Camera
Cortana
GetHelp
Maps
People
Phone
Photos
All the XboxGame apps

Some of them can be removed using the list you found in Settings (then uninstall option will not be grayed out) while others require either a 3rd party app remover or using Windows DISM command.

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Cybertooth

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ChuckR wrote:

I was searching and found Apps, there are 71. I tried to uninstall, as an example Camera, but the options were greyed out. Cortana was the same. Does this mean they are not active?

You can uninstall those Microsoft crap apps using Portable 10AppsManager tool or Portable Windows 10 O&O AppBuster

As noted by @PKCano above, DON’T uninstall Microsoft Store app.

Open the Microsoft Store app and block updates to block Microsoft from re-installing the deleted apps.

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Cybertooth

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Hey ChuckR, did you ever imagine that installing an “operating system” could be this difficult?

Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you recognize a mistake as soon as you make it again.

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kandb, geekdom, DrBonzo

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Me thinks, sometimes, that “operating system” is an oxymoron.

Carpe Diem {with backup and coffee}
offline▸ Win10Pro 2004.19041.572 x64 i3-3220 RAM8GB HDD Firefox83.0b3 WindowsDefender
offline▸ Acer TravelMate P215-52 RAM8GB Win11Pro 22H2.22621.674 x64 i5-10210U SSD Firefox106.0 MicrosoftDefender
online▸ Win11Pro 22H2.22621.1105 x64 i5-9400 RAM16GB HDD Firefox110.0b5 MicrosoftDefender

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Charlie, Cybertooth

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How can I verify Microsoft Store is active?

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ChuckR wrote:

How can I verify Microsoft Store is active?

Since you don’t have a Windows keyboard, click the start button, select “Run“, enter ms-windows-store: in the run box (don’t forgot the : at the end) and then hit enter.

This “should” open the MS Store app which will look something like this.

To disable app updates, click the person icon at the top right (see the red arrow), select App settings, then turn OFF the App updates item.

BTW, if you’re really determined to keep your old IBM keyboard, let me suggest you install KeyTweak which will let you remap some unused key (such as Scroll Lock or Pause) to function as a Windows Key because it may become critically important at some point, like if your display gets scrambled up and is unreadable, to actually have a functional Windows Key.

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Cybertooth

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Make a backup of W10 to the external disk NOW!
Do NOT delete any files on the external disk when you do this – you can save multiple backups on the external disk without issue.

cheers, Paul

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ms-windows-store: did bring up the Microsoft Store. What is so wonderful about this that it can’t be deleted? 

I did make a copy of Windows 10 to my 2tb.

Is settings under start the way to find all these apps?

I will download KeyTweak and who knows. This is very old and doesn’t reference Win 10.

Thanks

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ChuckR wrote:

ms-windows-store: did bring up the Microsoft Store. What is so wonderful about this that it can’t be deleted?

There are certain apps (not full-fledged ones that have a formal installer that ends in .exe, but ones that are called “UWP apps”) that are tied down to the Microsoft Store for their installation and updating. Security vulnerabilities can be and have been found in these apps, requiring the holes to be patched. The only way to patch this new type of app is through the Microsoft Store, NOT through Windows Update or Microsoft Update.

Because of this concept, please don’t attempt to disable or uninstall the Microsoft Store. Sorry.  🙁

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A few examples…

While Microsoft’s new chrome based Edge browser initially gets “installed” just like any other program, it actually gets “updated” as a UWP app via the MS Store.

If you have an Nvidia based GPU and the driver is newer than Dec 2019, the Nvidia Control Panel is a UWP app and gets installed/updated via the MS Store when using Nvidia’s “official” installation S/W.

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Cybertooth

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Thank you.  What is the simplest way to get to the Store. I currently have it open from the previous suggestion using RUN  and  ms-windows-store:.   There must be another way to locate it.

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Look in the Start Menu for Microsoft Store. Click on it.

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Another issue that may be connected to Windows 10.  I use Cox e-mail and occasionally have a problem where it gets hung up getting to 127.0.0.2.  The indication is that this is a Local-Host Loop Back address and should not be accessed.  It does not happen all the time.

Is anyone familiar with this condition?

As always, Thanks for the support.

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