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  • Windows Update for Windows 7 after 1-2020

    Posted on Canadian Tech Comment on the AskWoody Lounge

    Home Forums AskWoody support Windows Windows 7 Win7 beyond End-of-life Windows Update for Windows 7 after 1-2020

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    This topic contains 25 replies, has 13 voices, and was last updated by

     HH33 2 days, 7 hours ago.

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    • #1659318 Reply

      Canadian Tech
      AskWoody_MVP

      I have a group of about 130 Win7 client systems I have been looking after for years and still do. I plan to continue doing that for another 5 years. The exciting part of this story is that we started not having any windows update in May 2017.

      Two years on, our systems run much better than ever. They just run. My support work load has fallen off by at least 75%. Not a single infection or hacking attempt.

      None of these are enterprise systems, just home PCs. All systems have a major Anti-virus product that I have selected. In my case it is Bitdefender Antivirus + (not the security product). Most have switched to Chrome browsers, which no longer requires the security problem prone Adobe Reader, Adobe Flash Player or Java. These three programs are needed by Internet Explorer, but not by Chrome, and are a common hacker/virus attack vector. The fact is that the Chrome browser is now in use by more than 2/3’s of Windows users. None of these systems have versions of Microsoft Office any more recent than 2010.

      Windows Update had been a standard of security that was heavily relied upon by scores of Windows users for decades. Applying the once monthly updates became a mandatory ritual that most all Windows owners followed. Windows Update is by default automatic. For all those decades it worked largely flawlessly.

      Unfortunately, the quality of Windows Updates has fallen off badly. This has given rise to numerous defective updates that cause a whole range of problems. Many updates are re-issued, some many times over.

      Coincident with this falloff in quality, starting just after Microsoft ended Windows 7 development (December 31, 2014) and began security-only “support,” Microsoft changed the objectives of these updates from primarily security-only, to feature-related along with security. The “features” often contain(ed) changes to Windows 7 that some owners did (do) not want. At first they could selectively reject specific updates. October 2016, Microsoft changed the way it assembled updates in a way that no longer allows people to be selective. They call this new type of update “Roll-ups”. These Roll-ups are an all or nothing kind of deal, that includes all manner of “updates” that are largely unpublished. There is a way to get just the security updates, but it is complex and fraught with problems unless you are a serious technician. Therefore out of reach of most people.

      Best advice is to set Windows Update setting to “Never check for updates.” Unfortunately, that means Windows Update no longer works automatically, but requires the user to manage the update process. However, this is the only way to take control of the situation. Enterprise IT folks have always done it this way.

      If you really must continue to update, in spite of my advice to not do so, do NOT do updating until the day before the next cycle begins on the 2nd Tuesday of the month. That allows time for most of the erroneous updates to get fixed. Woody Leonhard, a tech writer extraordinaire, operates a web site, which does an excellent job of advising on Windows Update. It features his MS-DEFCON rating system that tells you when NOT to update, and when to do so. There is even a section on his web site http://www.askwoody.com, that specifically deals with Windows 7 updating.

      The security-only crowd (Woody calls them Group B) was popular at first but by June of 2017, that strategy fell apart because defects in security only updates got fixed in the “roll-up updates.” So, that made security only updating impractical for all but the most technically competent.

      Woody’s recommendation is that Windows 7 owners should stick to Group A, which just accepts all Microsoft roll-up updates and simply allows whatever changes Microsoft decides to make.

      Another group, Group W, of which I am a member, simply does no further updating. That group has decided the risk of not applying updates that could immunize your system from some disease, hacker or virus is a lesser risk than applying updates and allowing your system to become something you would not buy if you had a choice. Of course this strategy includes some other choices that become far more critical: A very good antivirus program, switching to a browser that will be updated and therefore be more secure, and the acceptance that the January 2020 date that Microsoft has set for the end of updates for Windows 7, has already come.

      When I re-build a system, I follow a very specific process of updating. Note well that I do not apply any updates after May 2017:

      Use a Win7 install disk with SP1. This disk need only match the product type (home, pro, etc.) an bitness (32 or 64) of your Microsoft Product Key
      Select Custom, not Upgrade
      Switch to advanced and Delete all partitions, only one logical partition – C:, which will be created by the installer.
      After install and activation, install network drivers if not installed already
      Do NOT install anything until all Windows Updating is completed. Not even antivirus.

      Set Windows Update to Never
      Download and install either one or two updates manually. ***Note exception below if not starting with SP1 disk. In most cases only the first (KB3138612) of these is needed. If that produces a result that says the update is not appropriate for your computer, you need to first install the 2nd of these (KB3020369), then install the first (KB3138612). Choose the one that is for your machine — 32 bit (X86) or 64 bit (X64).
      KB3138612

      32 bit,

      https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=51208

      64 bit

      https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=51212

      KB3020369:

      32 bit

      https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=46827

      64 bit

      https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=46817

      Switch from Windows-only updates to Microsoft updates
      Reset Windows Update setting to Never
      Start Windows Update
      When a list of updates is offered (likely nearly 200 or so), refuse the following updates by right-clicking on them and choosing hide
      Anything labeled Roll-up, with the exception of .net roll-ups

      Any update that is NOT described as “Security” whose issue date is later than December 31, 2014. That is the date Windows 7 development ended.

      Any Office update whose issue date is later than June 2017, displayed on the right side of the window as you select the individual update

      Proceed to update and run the same process as previously described again and again until no more are offered.
      *** If you cannot find an SP1 install disk, the step where the 2 specific updates (KB3138612 and KB3020369) described and linked above does not get done until the updating process installs SP1.

      Install any missing drivers, using drivers downloaded only from the OEM support page.
      Install the following Security-only updates for October 2016 through May 2017. You do not have to restart until all the following are installed. You can find an excellent guide on this topic at:

      https://web.archive.org/web/20170812061720/https://www.askwoody.com/forums/topic/2000003-ongoing-list-of-group-b-monthly-updates-for-win7-and-8-1/

      You do not need to restart until all these updates are completed. When you do restart, it may take a while to process it and get back to your desktop screen

      October, 2016 KB3192391:
      64 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/d/msdownload/update/software/secu/2016/10/windows6.1-kb3192391-x64_8acd94d8d268a6507c2852b0d9917f4ae1349b6c.msu

      32 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/d/msdownload/update/software/secu/2016/10/windows6.1-kb3192391-x86_a9d1e3f0dea012e3a331930bc1cd975005827cb6.msu

      November, 2016 KB3197867
      64 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2016/11/windows6.1-kb3197867-x64_6f8f45a5706eeee8ac05aa16fa91c984a9edb929.msu

      32 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2016/11/windows6.1-kb3197867-x86_2313232edda5cca08115455d91120ab3790896ba.msu

      December, 2016 KB3205394
      64 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2016/12/windows6.1-kb3205394-x64_71d0c657d24bc852f074996c32987fb936c07774.msu

      32 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/d/msdownload/update/software/secu/2016/12/windows6.1-kb3205394-x86_e477192f301b1fbafc98deb94af80c6e94231e54.msu

      January, 2017 KB3212642
      64 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2017/01/windows6.1-kb3212642-x64_f3633176091129fc428d899c93545bdc7821e689.msu

      32 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2017/01/windows6.1-kb3212642-x86_d5906af5f1f0dc07a5239311b169619ce255ab12.msu

      February, 2017. There were no updates this month
      March, 2017 KB4012212
      64 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/d/msdownload/update/software/secu/2017/02/windows6.1-kb4012212-x64_2decefaa02e2058dcd965702509a992d8c4e92b3.msu

      32 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/d/msdownload/update/software/secu/2017/02/windows6.1-kb4012212-x86_6bb04d3971bb58ae4bac44219e7169812914df3f.msu

      April, 2017 KB4015546
      64 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2017/03/windows6.1-kb4015546-x64_4ff5653990d74c465d48adfba21aca6453be99aa.msu

      32 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2017/03/windows6.1-kb4015546-x86_a753365290d940872860776113f226436a18ca9b.msu

      May, 2017 KB4019263
      64 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2017/05/windows6.1-kb4019263-x64_d64d8b6f91434754fdd2a552d8732c95a6e64f30.msu

      32 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2017/05/windows6.1-kb4019263-x86_e978e662d844d13ccf726944c39e4b678159bcde.msu

      May, 2017 IE update KB4018271
      64 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2017/04/ie11-windows6.1-kb4018271-x64_7c8d8beb9999d65c8db17001c697e82a9a0bb1d1.msu

      32 bit:

      http://download.windowsupdate.com/c/msdownload/update/software/secu/2017/04/ie11-windows6.1-kb4018271-x86_3eb0c93394fca87f3de52ae200a57e1770e741d6.msu

      After Windows 7, system drivers and all updates are installed and any stable applications like Microsoft Office are installed and updated, and before any data or dynamic applications are installed such as antivirus software, create a system image. It will take 3 or 6 DVD +Rs (not -Rs) and about an hour. When you are done you will have a very nice bit of insurance. Should you ever again need to re-build a corrupted system or replace a hard drive, you will have a precise duplicate of your system as it is at this point. You can restore that image to a hard drive in 20 to 60 minutes. Creation of System Image is found in your menu under Maintenance, Backup and Restore.

      Another great feature about creating the image is that you do not need an install disk or a product key to do the re-install the next time, and you will have saved yourself all the time you put in this time.

      You will, in fact, have a final-state Windows 7 installation which could run on this particular computer as long as the computer hardware itself holds up and the software you prefer is still usable. In fact, Microsoft could evaporate, and your Windows 7 system would still function just fine, even if you had to install a new hard drive.

      I emphasize the need for PLUS R DVD blanks. Do not use the more common MINUS R DVD blanks.

      Install software, ending with antivirus software.
      Then copy data into the newly created system.

      CT

    • #1664580 Reply

      Steve S.
      AskWoody Plus

      Thanks very much for your detailed procedure. I’ve been a Group B updater since Microsoft first started the ‘roll-up’ system for Windows 7, though as pointed out, this might prove problematical for some people for the reasons you mention.

      Another source of info for those seeking to reinstall Win 7:  A while back, PKCano shared a step-wise approach to doing a Group B reinstall. The thread probably ought to be read in its entirety but here is the specific post:

      Windows Updates after reboot – which do I need?

      Win7 Pro x64 (Group B), Win10 Pro x64 1809, Linux Mint + a cat with 'tortitude'.

      1 user thanked author for this post.
      • #1664876 Reply

        PKCano
        Da Boss

        There is a revision of that procedure I have done in the last six months or so, with the newest SSU and such. Maybe you can find it.

        2 users thanked author for this post.
      • #1664889 Reply

        Canadian Tech
        AskWoody_MVP

        Thanks, Steve. There are a lot of sites around that list the updates to not install. I figured out that all of them are post 12-31-14. Further, my logic is anything that was not a security update after that date was not a feature update but one that I just did not need. Hence my strategy, as outlined.

        I should have added that “optional” windows updates are 99% terrible. The only ones that I ever use are the sometimes early dated driver updates for Intel hardware. Otherwise Optional WU’s are to be avoided.

        CT

        1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #1665455 Reply

      HappyElderNerd
      AskWoody Plus

      Here’s another “under the table” release by Microsoft about security breaches in Windows 7 they’ve just owned up to.  Check out https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=KB4499175 if you’re interested…then you can explain it all to me.

    • #1671444 Reply

      HH33
      AskWoody Lounger

      Thanks, CT, for making your detailed instructions easily available again, despite the attempts of MS to keep them off the Web. So much for freedom of expression on the Internet!

      If W10 is really as good as MS wants us to believe it is, MS shouldn’t need to bludgeon and connive to get users to adopt it. We have three W7 Pro 64 machines which do what we need them to do and we see no point in changing to a privacy-invading OS with such a tumultuous (dare I say “incompetent?”) update history.

      As I see it, we have three options come W7 EOL:

      1) Change to W10, then fight endlessly with MS to preserve what’s left of our computer privacy and struggle constantly to protect our computers (and therefore our businesses) from chaotic, apparently untested updates. This seems like a real venture in self-abuse and I have no desire to stick my head into that pencil sharpener.

      2) Switch to Linux Mint and keep W7 available as an offline VM guest within the Linux host. Linux comes with a bit of a learning curve and limited choices in certain specialized software, but it also comes with absolute freedom from MS, with no snooping, and with updates which are far more reliable. That specialized software could be preserved within the W7 VM.

      3) Now that we know that it’s possible, reinstall and harden W7, per your instructions, and trust that it will work successfully for at least a few more years (in one of your posts, I think you mentioned perhaps 5 years), though at some point I assume that there will likely still be a need to change the OS (to ___?).

      Heretofore, I’ve been leaning toward Linux Mint with our current W7 configurations imaged and copied into a VirtualBox VM, but I’m intrigued and tempted by your approach to preserving W7. My primary concerns relate to:

      A) If at all possible, making any transfer to a post-W7 EOL configuration as (relatively) simple and painless as possible, and the thought of having to reinstall all my specialized software on W7 gives me buttwillies. Although I’ve owned and worked with DOS/Windows machines since 1985 and can handle most basic Windows issues for our businesses and our family without too much trouble, I don’t consider myself a tech by any stretch of the imagination, so I don’t want to get into any projects that are way above my pay grade. In the immortal words of Dirty Harry, “A man’s gotta know his limits.”

      B) Making sure that my wife’s MS Outlook and its enormous PST file, as well as her MS Office 2010 setup, are kept intact and readily accessible under any new configuration, as they contain many important business emails and documents which she needs to search through periodically. Although she is now using LibreOffice and is willing ultimately to switch to Thunderbird for her emails – both LO and TB come standard with Linux Mint, our previous first choice for post EOL computing – I will need to make provision for her to have reasonably straightforward access to her historical emails, and also to MS Office in case there are occasional functions it can handle which LO can’t. I’ve not yet researched the degree of difficulty involved in reinstalling those programs in W7, complete with all her old emails and documents.

      C) For better or worse, computers are a necessary part of our lives, but we personally have only so much time available in our lives to deal with computer change-over issues, hence the attraction of the (apparent) time-saving advantage of installing a Linux OS pre-packaged with much of the basic software we already do use or can use (LO and Mozilla’s Firefox and TB), then installing a previously-created system image of our respective present W7 configurations in a VirtualBox VM in each of the machines. Similarly, assuming we outlive your rough five-year prognosis for a “CT-spec” W7 machine, if we’re ultimately going to have to switch to some other OS anyway, would we perhaps save time, grief, and hassle by biting the bullet now?

      Any thoughts that you or others may have on any of this will be both welcome and appreciated.

      Many thanks.

      Group 7-L (W7, heading toward Linux)
      W7 Pro x64 SP1
      Linux Mint 18.3 Cinnamon 64-bit
      Linux Mint 17.1 Xfce 32-bit

    • #1681835 Reply

      agoldhammer
      AskWoody Plus

      As one who also keeps a Win7 machine running so I can take advantage of Windows Media Center, the only issue that we all confront is hardware failure.  Installation of Win7 on newer Intel chips and motherboards is not supported and I think only can be done with some degree of difficulty.  Anyone running Win7 for “critical” apps should also have some hardware backup that can be put in place if the primary components go south on you.

       

      • #1681996 Reply

        Canadian Tech
        AskWoody_MVP

        I have confronted the problem of installing Win7 on Intel’s newer chips. It is complicated solution but it can be done.

        The problem is that the Win7 install disk does not have embedded USB3 drivers. So, you need to create a Win7 install media with them. I followed the instructions on this Dell page and it all worked out just fine.

        http://www.dell.com/support/article/ca/en/cabsdt1/how11804/how-to-install-windows-7-on-systems-with-skylake-chipset?lang=en

        I would not be surprised if someone has built this and is selling the solution in the form of a USB key.

        CT

        6 users thanked author for this post.
        • #1682848 Reply

          Northwest Rick
          AskWoody Lounger

          I am encountering the following nag when I click on your Dell link, I wonder why?

          Access Denied
          You don’t have permission to access “http://www.dell.com/support/article/ca/en/cabsdt1/how11804/how-to-install-windows-7-on-systems-with-skylake-chipset?” on this server.

          Reference #18.6c022417.1558214016.9bf2d1c5

          It can’t be that my VPN has routed me to a blocked server again, because I can open the links in your longer detailed procedure post just fine…

          • #1682850 Reply

            PKCano
            Da Boss

            Use this link to check you IP address.

            1 user thanked author for this post.
            • #1682856 Reply

              Northwest Rick
              AskWoody Lounger

              Thanks PK, but no joy. As I said, I am only having a problem with that one referenced address. I see “/ca/en/” embedded in there, could this be a cross-border access issue? He is, after all, CANADIAN Tech…

            • #1682865 Reply

              PKCano
              Da Boss

              Link works in my Firefox 66.0.5. Try it this way. It’s going to open in a new tab.
              If that doesn’t work, look what kind of add-on blockers you are using.

              1 user thanked author for this post.
            • #1684088 Reply

              satrow
              AskWoody MVP

              Try via a uk/en link, or a DDG search for the article ID.

          • #1682863 Reply

            Canadian Tech
            AskWoody_MVP

            I checked the link before I sent it. It works on my Chrome browser just fine

            CT

            1 user thanked author for this post.
            • #1684272 Reply

              Northwest Rick
              AskWoody Lounger

              CT and PK – my apologies, apparently I caused my own problem.

              Just today I was tinkering with a way to thwart the system information my browser blithely and recklessly broadcasts to whatever sites I visit, and therefore to any malicious intruder. It involves spoofing the UserAgent feature. At first I tried a general.useragent.override key with an empty string as a value, which I confirmed sends out no UserAgent response at all on the network monitor.  This is what caused the problem.

              I was aware that, though most sites would just shrug at this, a few might throw a fit. The links in Mr CT’s longer procedure post were in the former category, so no problem there. But the Dell link fell into the latter, and shipwrecked.

              I have done two things to deal with this, short of surrender:

              1. I replaced the empty string value with a nonsensical Opera 3.2 (DOS 4.4) AirborneFlock; this also makes it unnecessary for me to re-enter the override key on browser restarts (an empty string value is a deletion trigger).

              2. I supplemented my add-ons with User-Agent Switcher, which I keep disabled until I encounter an access problem, then quickly enable to get past those.

              The Dell link was not a hard case, it responded just fine to the nonsensical string value. JPM Chase, on the other hand, tried to be helpful and threw up “you appear to be using an obsolete browser (or some such thing) and encouraged me to switch to one of the big three. I ignored it, because the flag is irrelevant to the reality that I am using a capable browser, and therefore have full access to my online account without resorting to the dormant add-on!

              When I was working, I was the guy in the office who knew 10% more about IT than the next most savvy fellow (this was pre-Windows), so I was considered to be the go-to resource for esoteric DOS commands. “In the kingdom of the blind, the one-eyed man is king,” as the Greek proverb goes. Among this AW Lounge crowd, though, it’s a much different story. I can still fight my way to a solution (usually!) but there are a lot of stumbles, and it’s not getting easier!

              Again, sorry for the confusion…

        • #1692756 Reply

          laidbacktokyo
          AskWoody Lounger

          also please refer to the attached copy of usb3.0 drivers’ files as taken by me from the genuine Dell’s win7sp1x64pro .iso dated of 2017-04-27

          DELL_WIN7SP1PROX642017-04-27_DVD_W7_SU-sources-OEM-1

          Attachments:
        • #1733415 Reply

          Steve S.
          AskWoody Plus

          Thanks, CT, for the Dell link. I run Windows 7 on older, slower hardware for now, but have Windows 10 running on a Coffee Lake i7-8700K  Z370 motherboard computer. I’ve considered installing Windows 7 on a seperate SSD in that computer and came across two sites that address doing so. These might also be of interest to others with a Z370 or other modern chipset mobo. Since I haven’t tried it yet, none of this is personally verified.

          https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-intel-motherboards/1642446-how-install-windows-7-coffee-lake-pc-z370-chipset-mb-asus-maximus-x-hero.html

          Full Report: Installing Windows 7 Ultimate on Coffee Lake from intel

          Win7 Pro x64 (Group B), Win10 Pro x64 1809, Linux Mint + a cat with 'tortitude'.

    • #1692513 Reply

      geekdom
      AskWoody Plus

      At some point, it will be necessary to move to a different or upgraded operating system.

      Where or when is that point?

      Group G{ot backup} Win7Pro · x64 · SP1 · i3-3220 · TestBeta
      • #1693683 Reply

        Canadian Tech
        AskWoody_MVP

        For me and most of my clients that time (when I have to change OS) will be:

        -My computer hardware has failed
        -Some important piece of software like Chrome is no longer available
        -Or, i just plain don’t use it any longer but are using a shirt pocket computer (they call it a smart phone) with Android, instead.

        I am planning on about 5 years.

        Unless Microsoft suddenly has a moment and decides to change its present course, which is very highly unlikely. I do have some clients who ask for a recommendation. I suggest Chromebook or Apple. Many in this forum will try Linux, but that is not an OS for the masses.

        Microsoft (since Windows 8) no longer produces a product that I want to use. It is not a consumer product company any longer which is made very clear if you ever try to actually contact the company. The reality is that Android is the OS for “the people” now.

        CT

        8 users thanked author for this post.
      • #1845663 Reply

        OscarCP
        AskWoody Plus

        geekdom:

        At some point, it will be necessary to move to a different or upgraded operating system. Where or when is that point?

        I have pretty much sorted out the “when” as well as the “where to”: I have had Linux Mint (19.1) installed in dual-boot with Windows 7 already for about two months, and also have a MacBook Pro laptop that I am using more and more as my workhorse for programming and for the data analysis heavy on number-crunching, since mid 2017, bought then with the idea of having a practical alternative to Windows 10. Everything that I have been able to test in this new setup (Win 7 + Linux + Mac) is working fine, and working together.

        To me the main question now is: how I am going to maintain Windows 7 after EOL? That can be broken down into the following ones: Will there be patches that still can be installed the way some people seem to have figured out to do, when there are no longer patches officially meant for Windows 7? Or shall I keep the Windows 7 side cut off from the Web and use only the Linux side of the PC to contact the rest of the world?

        So my job now, as far as taking care of the next January EOL transition goes, is to find useful answers to those questions, and to do it, preferably, sometime in the next six months.

    • #1845419 Reply

      Geo
      AskWoody Plus

      I plan on switching to W10 when my  2010 Walmart E-machine breaks and I have to buy a new one.

    • #1845474 Reply

      Geo
      AskWoody Plus

      I take that back.  By then I might be ready for a Chromebook.

    • #1845475 Reply

      Cybertooth
      AskWoody Lounger

      I emphasize the need for PLUS R DVD blanks. Do not use the more common MINUS R DVD blanks.

      In terms of this thread, what is the difference between -R and +R DVD’s?

       

      • #1845583 Reply

        OscarCP
        AskWoody Plus

        Cybertooth, whatever the reason for it, that CT’s advice is useful to people with ageing built-in DVD drives, and somewhat relevant to what might happen after Windows 7 EOL and how to deal with it.

        Case in point: my own. The drive that came with my ca. 2011, HP Pavilion dv6t PC, was no longer burning files on blank DVDs. I was using “-R” DVDs and changing to “+R” ones took care of the problem as if by magic.

        So, as I understand it, that problem was not because of some bad Windows patch, or of not patching (as might be the situation after January next year), but because optical drives, particularly ageing ones, can have trouble doing their job when one tries to use them for writing on blank “-R” DVDs. Not knowing this useful fact could cause unnecessary confusion, especially if the problem shows up after Windows 7 EOL.

        1 user thanked author for this post.
      • #1845600 Reply

        Canadian Tech
        AskWoody_MVP

        I routinely make system images of my clients’ Win7 systems when I re-build or replace the HD. I’ve done it hundreds of times.  I can tell you based on a lot of experience dash R DVDs are not nearly as reliable as plus R DVDs.  When last I used -r’s, one out of three disks would fail.  When I use +r’s, I rarely see a failure.  You can tell when it fails because the system image process that is part of Win7 does a read-back after it writes and rejects for the slightest imperfection.  The last thing you want is to find an image not usable when you need it.

        My understanding is that -r was designed principally for video recording.  +r’s are far better for data.

        I have never seen a PC which could read or write +r or -r differently.  They either do not work at all, or work just fine.  I also can tell from a lot of experience that DVD drives are poorly designed a fail quite often.  I would doubt the reliability of a DVD drive on a laptop over 5 years old.  Desktops tend to last longer, but they often fail mechanically when the drawer just will not open or close.  Desktop DVD players are a cheap item — about $20 and easy to replace.

        I have read that +r’s are formatted differently than -r’s and that may be one of the reasons.

        CT

        2 users thanked author for this post.
    • #1846020 Reply

      HH33
      AskWoody Lounger

      The following excerpt from a Lifewire article is the relevant part of a larger discussion of the differences between DVD-R and DVD+R:

      DVD+R and DVD-R: Functional Differences
      The main functional differences between DVD-R and DVD+R are the DVD recorder’s built-in defects management, the way the recorders format and rewrite DVDs, and their respective price tags.

      With DVD-R, little marks are positioned in the grooves of the disc that determines how the DVD reader processes the information on the disc. DVD+R, however, does not have these land pre-pits but instead measures the wobble frequency as the laser processes the disc.

      Even though these two formats were developed by different companies and can only be used on certain devices, some DVD drives are hybrid models and can support both DVD-R and DVD+R discs.

      Whether you have DVD-R or DVD+R discs, make sure that the DVD drive you intend to purchase says that they’re both supported. Similarly, if you already have a DVD+R or DVD-R machine and it’s not a hybrid DVD drive, make sure to only buy the discs your player supports.

      Some DVD+R Advantages
      According to the claims of the DVD Alliance, using a DVD+R recorder allows for the following abilities and features:

      Instantly eject DVDs without having to wait for finalized formatting.
      Ability to record one DVD disc partially on PC and partially on television.
      Background formatting — while the disc is being formatted, you can simultaneously record on already-formatted portions of the same disc.
      Enhanced ability to edit filenames, movie and song titles, and playlists.
      100 percent compatibility with all other DVD players, while still enjoying the noted extra recording features.

      Hope that helps.

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    You can use BBCodes to format your content.
    Your account can't use Advanced BBCodes, they will be stripped before saving.