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Show accent color on start and taskbar is disabled (I have Light mode set). But that was the clue I needed, and now I feel really dumb 🙁

I can see that this is the taskbar displaying a mostly transparent version of colors derived from the desktop background, and it turned green for the photo I had as the background last night. (My backgrounds are on an hourly cycle.)

I’ve flicked through a number of backgrounds in the last few minutes and most of them show a nearly grey taskbar but a few produce pronounced colors. I’ve also noticed that this effect is only displayed on the primary monitor; while the secondary monitor displays a taskbar if I mouse to the edge of the display, that taskbar is always flat grey.

cheers

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b

Update: I had already ordered a new PSU from the supplier accompanied with a dialogue about exploring the warranty option. They kinda brushed that aside, but the new PSU (the same HX850 but with a 10 year warranty now) arrived today and when I swapped it for the old PSU (I had to do a bit more cabling work than expected because the connectors have changed slightly) everything worked perfectly. I’m not going to cry over $200 when I was half-expecting a considerably bigger bill and days more inconvenience.

All’s well that ends well, I guess.

Thanks everyone for your assistance.

cheers
T

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Lars220

No odor, at least not that I noticed. There has been a little more noise at times since the beginning of the year, and there are quite a lot of tiny white flakes collected around the base of the PSU housing (see attached).

 

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Hi

The MB is a ROG STRIX Z390-F and the CPU is i9-9900K. GPU is GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER XC. The C drive is a 512GB SSD and there are three other HDD (although one is just the C drive from this machine’s previous incarnation).

If that helps 🙂

cheers
T

When I say the keyboard lit up, I mean that the backlighting of the keys (RGB) is on. The keys themselves do not seem to be doing anything – pressing caps lock does not illuminate the caps indicator for example. But if I plug the controller into the USB slot on the keyboard it still buzzes when I turn the PSU on.

Oh, with the PSU switched on the front power switch on the case is not illuminated, but if I press that switch the memory LEDs light up and the case power switch comes on. Nothing else though.

I can get hold of a replacement PSU relatively easily; what’s the likelihood that my other components are fried, d’you think? (Not asking for any guarantees, just wondering where I should set my expectations and how depressed I should be.)

cheers
T

Thanks, this test green-zones the CPU but says TPM  is not enabled on the motherboard.

My motherboard is a ROG STRIX Z390-F, and it looks like there’s a BIOS setting to enable TPM (although I can also see quite a few users reporting boot errors after enabling it, so I’m not going to change it right now).

But I’m glad to see my hardware isn’t obsolete already.

Well I don’t know precisely where I stand on this, I’m not mad keen to upgrade to Win 11 right now but I’d like to think I’d be able to.

So I have a desktop which I assembled myself less than 2 years ago, it has an i9-9900K CPU which is on the official Win 11 support list, and yet when I run the PC Health check it specifically identifies the CPU as being the reason my machine cannot run Windows 11. What gives, Microsoft?

cheers
T

Thanks.

I have already used the media creation tool to get Win 10 21H1 on a USB. I think if it doesn’t shutdown and restart nicely following your log out suggestion, then doing the repair install straight away is probably the best option, although if I can get into any kind of hardware diagnostics on the laptop I will run those first.

cheers
T

 

Well, here’s where things are.

I uninstalled Skype. I rebooted. I verified that there was no Skype in my apps or startup. I typed Skype in the start menu and only search options appeared. I  searched for skype in the local disk drives and there was nothing.

I went to skype.com/go/download and reinstalled the latest Skype for desktop.

Logged in. My chat history and attached files appeared.

Checked Settings > Apps: there is one Skype version 8.72.

Checked Settings > Apps > Startup: there are two Skypes.

I guess I wait to find out if I have to run the next update twice.

At least nothing appears to have been harmed by this experience.

cheers
T

 

Thanks, makes perfect sense

For some reason I didn’t get notifications for these responses or I’d have thanked you sooner.

Is there any way I can remove Skype and reinstall without losing the attachments in my Skype chat history? A colleague often uses it to send me screenshots of pieces of code.

Once I sort this annoyance out I may return with another one 🙂

Cheers
T

Thanks – the check said it had not found any problems, but after running it I was able to delete the file immediately. Maybe it rebuilt the disk map or something.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I have tested AllDup and the AusLogics duplicate finder. They agree 🙂

Looks like my 25% estimate was almost exactly correct 🙁

Cheers

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Microfix

I’ve not had any of the pro features since I upgraded to Win 10 however long ago that became possible, so I probably can survive without them.

Features of Pro that might be useful to me: sandbox and virtualisation. Paused updates would save me some hassle but I’ve just learned that’s in Home now. I wondered if RDP might be useful – I often have to sort out my mother’s laptop remotely but I currently use QuickAssist and that’s been adequate.

This is a single-user machine so I haven’t been bitten by permissions really, although I do hate the lying “another user has this file open” dialog when I try to delete folders which Have Not Been Accessed For Years. I doubt if that’s a Home/Pro issue though.

 

I think you might be right. Well that saves me some $$ 🙂

 

Thanks. I’m sitting looking at a box labelled Windows 7 Home Premium which must have been my original license.

I want a clean install on the SSD when I rebuild the machine, so it looks like my options are either to (1) purchase a new 10 Pro and install that (clearly this is the simplest and cleanest option), or (2) purchase a Home to Pro upgrade and install that on the existing HDD now, then reinstall it clean on the SSD in due course. I presume if I have a valid license key I can do a reinstall on a new disk?

The first option will cost me $NZ320, looks like Microsoft will charge me $NZ209 to upgrade through the store.