• PreBoot System Assestment

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    #167469

    Today I ran a preboot system assessment on my Dell Inspiron 3847 and every test passed but the hard drive unfortunately.  I don’t if the hard drive is failing or if the cause could be system errors.  Any suggestions on the next steps I should take?

    FYI A few days ago I ran a system refresh on this system.

     

     

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    • #167492

       

      More Details of the test.
      ST2000DM001-1ER164
      SMART Status Test
       Passed
      ST2000DM001-1ER164
      Targeted Read Test
       Passed
      ST2000DM001-1ER164
      Funnel Seek Test
       Passed
      ST2000DM001-1ER164
      Linear Read Test
       Passed
      ST2000DM001-1ER164
      Linear Read Test
       Passed
      ST2000DM001-1ER164
      Random Seek Test
       Passed
      ST2000DM001-1ER164
      SMART Short Self Test
       Failed
      ST2000DM001-1ER164
      SMART Thresholds Test
       Passed
    • #167502

      If the computer boots, I would suggest two types of backup IMMEDIATELY.

      If you haven’t made a Rescue Disk and Restore Disks, do so now.

      Data backup: Copy ALL the files under your User ID off on to an external HDD. You don’t say what Win you have, but I use Karen’s Replicator (free) that works on Win7/8.1, not on Win10. EaseUS Todo is free backup s/w that will work on all versions of Win and allows file/folder backup. – be sure you make a Rescue Disk if you use it.

      Then make an Image of the HDD. EaseUS Todo or Macrium are two free imaging programs. Rescue disk a must here.

      Once you have backups, you can try repairs – start with something simple like chkdsk /f. But you will be prepared for a HDD replacement if in fact the HDD is going bad.

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #167543

      I believe the hard disk test reported that it was failing the “Smart” self test.  I do not think that type of failure is repairable, other than replacing the hard disk ASAP.

      If the system still boots up, and he can install a backup program, “Hopper15” should be able to use the Easeus Free version to make a full System backup of his system drive.  Trying to copy off ALL the files in his user area would be a waste of time, as all of those will be included in a full Easeus system backup.  The full system backup is one of the main choices on the main menu of the backup program.

      The Easeus installation can be used to make a bootable USB drive (or a CD, or both) for restoring the full system backup to ‘bare metal’ new drive, as long as the O.P. can figure out how to get his system to boot from a USB thumb drive.

      He will of course need a large enough external USB hard disk to do the back up onto.

      Hopefully Hopper15 can post more info on his system, or can figure out how to change the boot order to a USB thumb drive.  That can sometimes be the hardest part, since if his system had a UEFI BIOS, that can be a pain to get into to make the changes.

      2 users thanked author for this post.
      • #167545

        Copying the files from the Usre’s ID is not a waste of time. They are immediately available/usable on any PC at any time if he has to continue doing his business while his PC is in repair. They are not so easily available if they are in an image.

        And if the drive is failing/fails, you may not be able to get the whole image off. But the data is irreplaceable.

         

        2 users thanked author for this post.
    • #167556

      If the computer boots, I would suggest two types of backup IMMEDIATELY. If you haven’t made a Rescue Disk and Restore Disks, do so now. Data backup: Copy ALL the files under your User ID off on to an external HDD. You don’t say what Win you have, but I use Karen’s Replicator (free) that works on Win7/8.1, not on Win10. EaseUS Todo is free backup s/w that will work on all versions of Win and allows file/folder backup. – be sure you make a Rescue Disk if you use it. Then make an Image of the HDD. EaseUS Todo or Macrium are two free imaging programs. Rescue disk a must here. Once you have backups, you can try repairs – start with something simple like chkdsk /f. But you will be prepared for a HDD replacement if in fact the HDD is going bad.

      I just bought a Seagate Expansion External Drive today. Speaking of Seagate I ran some tests and the smart check passed but short drive self test failed on my pc. I also ran the Surface Test on EaseUS and no bad sectors were found.

      BTW I’m using a Win 8.1 Version 6.3.9600(build9600)

      1 user thanked author for this post.
    • #167558

      @PKCano:

      Easeus backup can also make a backup of his user area, and on any other system with a copy of Easeus installed on it…all files (EG: Documents, Pictures, etc) can be accessed with Windows Explorer just like they were ‘copied’ off. Plus it doesn’t have problems with some obscure folders that just ‘copying’ can’t copy.

      I’ve used it to access files from ‘another’ (EG: not the main user) user area on client systems that could not be accessed from Windows with the clients’ hard disk connected as a 2nd drive.  Windows would not/could not change some sub-directories ownership, so the only way to pull a bunch of pictures off was to make a backup of that users’ area, then access the sub-folder/files using the Easeus file browser that is integrated into Windows Explorer.

      In my earlier post, I forgot to add that Easeus can be used to copy from the failing hard disk (if it’s still working well enough, no major read failures), directly to a new hard disk. But I’d do a full system back up first, then try the direct transfer. The program has a “Clone” function. It works in ‘older’ free versions (that I use regularly for normal backups), and I see it is still in the latest version (10.6x as of last week).

      I use some other disk cloning software, but it does not do backups, just does straight ‘cloning’, so won’t inject that into the discussion.

       

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    • #169884

      If the computer boots, I would suggest two types of backup IMMEDIATELY. If you haven’t made a Rescue Disk and Restore Disks, do so now. Data backup: Copy ALL the files under your User ID off on to an external HDD. You don’t say what Win you have, but I use Karen’s Replicator (free) that works on Win7/8.1, not on Win10. EaseUS Todo is free backup s/w that will work on all versions of Win and allows file/folder backup. – be sure you make a Rescue Disk if you use it. Then make an Image of the HDD. EaseUS Todo or Macrium are two free imaging programs. Rescue disk a must here. Once you have backups, you can try repairs – start with something simple like chkdsk /f. But you will be prepared for a HDD replacement if in fact the HDD is going bad.

      Ok I made Rescue Disk and Restore Disks and I copied all my important files and  documents to my external drive yesterday.  Today I ran chkdsk /f and which scanned and repaired the drive.  Anything else I should do?

      I’m aware I’m probably just delaying the inevitable though and I will soon take this PC in to my local repair shop for a HDD replacement.

      1 user thanked author for this post.
      • #169887

        You should do the replacement BEFORE it fails, not WHEN it fails. SSDs are cheap – treat yourself to a faster computer while you are at it.

        2 users thanked author for this post.
    • #169889

      ST2000DM001-1ER164

      Agreed. I just had one final question. The ST2000DM001-1ER164 HD that I’m currently using. Are these from Seagate?

      1 user thanked author for this post.
      • #169947

        When I Google your HD part number, it comes back as a 2 TB drive made by Seagate.

        If it came in a new Dell system (at the time of purchase), it’s probably an “OEM” hard disk.  It might have had some warranty from Dell, but if the serial number is checked for warranty status on the Seagate website, it will probably show it is an OEM drive and has no warranty direct from Seagate. If the Dell is out of warranty, you will just have to buy a new SATA drive of some brand, either another Seagate or some other brand, which will usually have a longer term warranty, perhaps 2 to 3 years.

        PKCano’s advice to get the drive replaced as soon as possible before it fails is 100% correct.  If you can not do the swap/replacement yourself, you should definitely get the system to a repair shop to get the drive replaced, as the tech there should be able to do the direct transfer to another hard disk, as long as it’s still working well enough. If you wait for it to fail, it gets LOTS more complicated, takes longer ($$$), and is a pain for the tech.

        You will of course have to get a drive big enough to hold what ever programs and data you have on your current drive (XXX gigabytes??), plus extra room for new stuff, so getting a solid state drive might be out of the question, cost wise, as BIG SSD’s get expensive fast compared to big spinning drives.

        Just don’t wait too long to get the drive replace, the tech will thank you (ask me how I know…I do this fairly often for my clients).

        Good luck!

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    • #169950

      Have you run the disk diagnostics program from Seagate? That will tell you if the disk is OK.
      https://www.seagate.com/gb/en/support/downloads/seatools/

      Cheers, Paul

      1 user thanked author for this post.
      • #170049

        This tool has a bias to tell you “this drive is working now (even though is just lost some of your data earlier), so you are good, you don’t need to contact seagate and get a warranty replacement”

        If the drive has ever failed a smart self test the drive is bad (how bad may be up for debate) and should be replaced.

        gsmartcontrol can root out some bad drives even if they pass tests. Check after your data is backed up. Is another drive you have actually fine? backup your data anyway.

        • #170469

          And you have evidence of this bias?

          cheers, Paul

          • #170527

            Yes, based on how the program works (there have been some recent improvements).

            The program will try to read all current sectors (in it’s non SMART mode, non-SMART default last I checked). And if it succeeds then your drive is declared fine (which may or may not be true). If it fails rather than suggesting you warranty replace your drive it suggests (after backup of data) that you overwrite all sectors to force the drive to replace the bad sectors with spares — so it can pass the test and “isn’t defective anymore”.

            An analogy:

            The ground’s stability: Your drive’s physical integrity.
            Your house: Your data.
            An unreadable sector: a sinkhole somewhere on the property (if it damaged the house you lost data).
            An unreadable sector replaced with a spare: a filled in sinkhole.

            A drive with 500 bad sectors replaced with spares:
            Seagate “Read all sectors test”: pass
            Seagate “trigger internal SMART self test”: pass(maybe fail)
            A careful check with GSmartControl including a internal SMART self test: fail

            Also Seagate only recently was able to test drives connected via USB with SMART.

            I’ve also seen a toshiba drive abusing their internal SMART long self test. Rather than failing the test (immediately) when finding a bad sector they tried to replace it with a spare. That drive (but not all toshiba drives) always passes it’s SMART long self test, it just might take 100 years if the drive is actually bad.

            • #170631

              How do you know how the program works internally?

              cheers, Paul

            • #170709

              You don’t have to see much to verify a program is reading every sector sequentially (documentation I recall reading pretty much verifies it).

              One strong evidence is that if you use another program to read the (otherwise not in use) drive end to end and it takes 92 minutes and 20 seconds (+/- 15 seconds) to finish, then you use the Seagate program to do the same thing and it takes the same amount of time within a few seconds you have some confidence it is the same process. Next run the internal SMART self test (via the Seagate program or another, either way it runs the same SMART test) and note that it beats the “read all the sectors” test by a little bit.

              Next do the same thing via USB 2 interface (SMART test may be unavailable via Seagate program on many USB interfaces). Note the SMART self test triggered by the Seagate program (if possible) or by GSmartControl takes just exactly as long because you are triggering the internal SMART self test that runs internal to the drive (results output in the SMART log).

              Now run the Seagate normal test via USB 2, note that it takes ~10 hours to finish because the USB 2 interface bottlenecks the program reading every sector. During a SMART long self test the interface (SATA/USB) is mostly idle.

              Applies in general, not necessarily to Seagate:

              Good process to see if a drive is bad:
              Check the SMART data and see if the drive has already done bad things (reallocated sectors is the most common).
              Run long self test (finishes quickly even over slow interface).

              Not so good process:
              Ignore the SMART data unless it’s REALLY bad.
              Read all the sectors sequentially looking for read failures (unless the USB interface just gives you a random sector from its buffer when there is a read failure). If you don’t encounter a read error declare the drive good.

              Recommended process if a test fails:
              get your data.
              replace drive (warranty if available)

              Not so recommended process if a test fails:
              Overwrite unreadable sectors (or whole drive) to force replacement of bad sectors with spares.
              Repeat until test(s) pass.
              Don’t get a warranty replacement.
              Prolong drive use until it doesn’t work / losses your data / warranty expires.

    • #170070

      When I Google your HD part number, it comes back as a 2 TB drive made by Seagate. If it came in a new Dell system (at the time of purchase), it’s probably an “OEM” hard disk. It might have had some warranty from Dell, but if the serial number is checked for warranty status on the Seagate website, it will probably show it is an OEM drive and has no warranty direct from Seagate. If the Dell is out of warranty, you will just have to buy a new SATA drive of some brand, either another Seagate or some other brand, which will usually have a longer term warranty, perhaps 2 to 3 years. PKCano’s advice to get the drive replaced as soon as possible before it fails is 100% correct. If you can not do the swap/replacement yourself, you should definitely get the system to a repair shop to get the drive replaced, as the tech there should be able to do the direct transfer to another hard disk, as long as it’s still working well enough. If you wait for it to fail, it gets LOTS more complicated, takes longer ($$$), and is a pain for the tech. You will of course have to get a drive big enough to hold what ever programs and data you have on your current drive (XXX gigabytes??), plus extra room for new stuff, so getting a solid state drive might be out of the question, cost wise, as BIG SSD’s get expensive fast compared to big spinning drives. Just don’t wait too long to get the drive replace, the tech will thank you (ask me how I know…I do this fairly often for my clients). Good luck!

      Thanks a lot.  The capacity is indeed a 2TB HD and what I’ll also be looking for as a replacement.

    • #239015

      When I Google your HD part number, it comes back as a 2 TB drive made by Seagate. If it came in a new Dell system (at the time of purchase), it’s probably an “OEM” hard disk. It might have had some warranty from Dell, but if the serial number is checked for warranty status on the Seagate website, it will probably show it is an OEM drive and has no warranty direct from Seagate. If the Dell is out of warranty, you will just have to buy a new SATA drive of some brand, either another Seagate or some other brand, which will usually have a longer term warranty, perhaps 2 to 3 years. PKCano’s advice to get the drive replaced as soon as possible before it fails is 100% correct. If you can not do the swap/replacement yourself, you should definitely get the system to a repair shop to get the drive replaced, as the tech there should be able to do the direct transfer to another hard disk, as long as it’s still working well enough. If you wait for it to fail, it gets LOTS more complicated, takes longer ($$$), and is a pain for the tech. You will of course have to get a drive big enough to hold what ever programs and data you have on your current drive (XXX gigabytes??), plus extra room for new stuff, so getting a solid state drive might be out of the question, cost wise, as BIG SSD’s get expensive fast compared to big spinning drives. Just don’t wait too long to get the drive replace, the tech will thank you (ask me how I know…I do this fairly often for my clients). Good luck!

      If you don’t mind me asking what city did you work in?

      Sorry that I forgot to give you guys an update.  I got the hard drive replaced about 4 months ago. The new SSD was about 150 (very inexpensive like PKCano said) and I took into (San Francisco)a local repair shop got the new drive inserted and Win 8.1 reinstalled.  All is well now. 🙂

       

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