Replies

You need to set a range that exists on your network – the first three numbers must match.
List the IP on your computer to find out what range you are using.
e.g. if your computer is 192.168.1.3 set the iLO to 192.168.1.25. Leave the mask at 255.255.255.0

cheers, Paul

Thanks Paul; now we are getting somewhere.
I think I understand what you are saying, but how do I list the IP on my computer? I am sorry that I just don’t know how to do this. Its an area I have never played with I guess. :confused:

rstew

PROBLEM SOLVED:
I went out and picked up a new 50 ft cat5e cable and put it in. Bingo, all working good.
After all was said and done that was the easiest solution. Only cost 15 bucks plus a little time.
Thanks to all for the suggestions and advice!
rstew:)

Had a look at the end connections and they both appear to be the same.
It’s kind of hard to ohm out the connections because they are in different rooms on different levels of the house. It’s a 50 foot long cable LOL. I tried switching ports on both end, no change.
Is there utility software that I could use to perhaps diagnose a connection issue, or maybe actually test the transmission speed of the cable?
Thanks,
rstew

Access it at boot and see if you can set an IP address manually.

cheers, Paul

Paul; I can access it during boot no problem, and there is a place to set a static IP address, but what do I use?
The default iLO2 IP address that shows at boot up is 192.168.0.25 and I have tried searching for it but no luck.
The default subnet mask is 255.255.255.0
There is also a DNS name assigned, but I don’t know what to do with it.

rstew

Well I am mystified.
I have tried searching for the iLO2 IP address and various other things; no luck.
I cannot discover iLO2 from any other machine on my network. Am I correct in my perception that I should be able to find it and then log in?
rstew

They are, you must have a cable /router problem.
Do both cables have the same issue?
Connect the troublesome port to a local machine to check the router and switch.
Swap ports.
Check the router / switch configuration – may be set to 100.

cheers, Paul

Thanks for the info Paul.
No changes in any switch or router settings. Only thing I changed was the cable itself.
I’ll try swapping ports as well. Maybe need to check the cable ends and see if they are wired normally. This was a surplus 50 ft cable I had lying around, not sure of it’s history.

Cheers,
rstew

I appreciate the suggestion, and I will check out the video.
I was really hoping to find someone out there who has hands on experience with iLO2, who can quickly lead me through the chaff to the nitty gritty! 🙂

rstew

It seems that the older I get the more cynical and suspicious I get of other peoples motives.
Is it just me, or do others get the impression that MS is trying to make older versions of Windows such a pain to use and keep current, that most will eventually give in and upgrade to W10? Maybe the free upgrade didn’t get the intended number of converts so now they are out to forcibly cause us so much stress that we will fall into step? Though I understand that W10 upgrades are to be (or maybe already are) handled in the same all or nothing way.
I think MS run a serious risk of pushing more converts over to Apple if they are not real careful. And probably once converted 90+% of folks will stay there.
I really hope someone at MS is reading all this upgrade grief and paying attention.
Many of us like to manage our own destiny and affairs; not have it managed for us by some gigantic faceless moneymongering entity.

rstew

Thanks Paul. Makes perfect sense.
I am using HP’s array configuration utuility which provides a good way to manage arrays actually. So if several drives are part of an array and are seen by Windows as a logical drive, can I format them as if they were a single physical drive?
Or should I delete the array and try to format each as a separate drive?

Thanks, rstew

So does this mean that if one was to purchase a Skylake CPU and a compatible 1151 aftermarket mobo, and assemble a new rig around them, you won’t be able to run Win 7 on it? Only Win 10? :confused:

rstew

Seems like a good idea! Thanks.
Well today everything is behaving normally, thank goodness.
No annoying Windows 10 badgering popups! Yahoo.
Good riddance.

rstew

I forgot to say in my earlier post that I installed the GWX panel, and it seems to work really well.
It deleted all traces of Win 10 as far as I can tell, and that is the reason everything seems to be running pretty well now, some 24 hours later.
This is a nice little utility and I recommend anyone who is being bullied by Win 10 popups to install it right away!

Even better, set up a Monitor at changedetection.com on the relevant GWX Control Panel webpage (say the downloads or the blog) to check daily if there has been a change, and receive an email message if there has.

Seems like a good idea! Thanks.
Well today everything is behaving normally, thank goodness.
No annoying Windows 10 badgering popups! Yahoo.
Good riddance.

rstew

Check this link.

Choose one of the tools, and when you are booted into your preferred version of Windows, install it.

OK thanks big time bbearren!
I installed the control panel and deleted everything Win 10 related.
Now I will set back and hope for the best..

For Microsoft to resort to these kind of sneaky underhanded tactics to try and doggedly coerce people to upgrade to Win 10, it makes you wonder what they have up their sleeve long term?
Total domination and world control maybe?
Or some sneaky marketing trick down the road where users will get stuck having to pay some exorbitant fee to continue using Win10, or it will be disabled, with no way to delete it, and no way to revert back to an earlier OS?
OK, so I digress. But you can bet that at the end of the day it’s all about the money. MS are not doing this just to be nice guys by any stretch.
The point is I have absolutely no faith or trust in MS anymore, after using their products for close to 30 years.
And I bet I am not alone. Nice going Bill !

rstew

While it’s not impossible in theory, I’ve never seen such a capability in practice. It’s one of the weaknesses of RAID arrays; systematically increasing the capacity of the array by adding drives requires re-striping the entire array. Which is a total reformat, which means you better be prepared for a complete restore from backup.

I am inclined to think that this is not possible to do, even though the ACU manual says it will work. The manual does say that it will take about 15 minutes per GB, or longer to complete! Wow. Not a fast process.
I am leaning towards installing a second 2 drive array and migrating the original array contents over to it, then deleting the original array (which will delete all contents), then adding the 4th drive and migrating the contents back to the new array. This looks way easier in the long run.

This depends entirely on the system you have. With RAID 5, you should be able to add a 4th disk, but the only way to be sure is to RTFM (read the f*ing manual) for your controller. It will require some sort of rebuild to integrate the new disk.

Good suggestion! Actually I did RTFM and found that the Array Config Utility is supposed to enable adding a drive. But though it is listed in the ACU, there is no option to add it.
And when I go to disk management in the OS, it does not show the unallocated drive, though it shows up in Hard Disk Sentinel just fine.
So it seems like it needs to be initialized, or formatted maybe, but since it does not show up in disk management there does not seem like a way to do either.

Stumped
rstew