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What Microsoft needs to include in Outlook 2016
In this issue
- LOUNGE LIFE: How Cortana gets to know you, step by step
- WACKY WEB WEEK: Another Amadeus, happy to entertain the world
- TOP STORY: What Microsoft needs to include in Outlook 2016
- LANGALIST PLUS: Can't install software due to "Error 2502/03"
- BEST PRACTICES: Options for upgrading your data storage
- BEST UTILITIES: A tour through Windows Process Explorer: Part 1
How Cortana gets to know you, step by step
When Lounge member handcuff36 wrote to the Windows 10 forum, he was bemused by the apparent activity of Cortana, who wasn’t supposed to be working yet in Montréal.
Despite Cortana’s ambiguous immigration status in Canada, handcuff36 was quickly learning how to make himself understood to Cortana, French accent and all.
Check out the new Windows 10 forum. Among other things, you might benefit from handcuff36’s post about his learning curve.
The following links are this week’s most interesting Lounge threads, including several new questions for which you might have answers:
starred posts: particularly useful
If you’re not already a Lounge member, use the quick registration form to sign up for free. The ability to post comments and take advantage of other Lounge features is available only to registered members.
If you’re already registered, you can jump right into today’s discussions in the Lounge.
Another Amadeus, happy to entertain the world
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Amadeus, the pool dog, is a small black chihuahua with a strong disposition to please. More than a million mostly charmed YouTube viewers have watched him clear the pool table (apparently without leaving a single snag in the green baize), all the while talking to himself in high canine excitement. His people, the videographers, can’t get enough of his performance. And yet, some people complain because Amadeus hasn’t mastered rotation. Next they’ll be asking him to play the piano, like another Amadeus! Click below or go to the original YouTube video. |
Post your thoughts about this story in the WS Columns forum. |
What Microsoft needs to include in Outlook 2016
As already rumored and expected, Office 2016 is confirmed by Microsoft to be on the (relatively) near horizon.
In my opinion, there’s one feature that absolutely must be included: a unified inbox for Outlook.
All new versions of Office in 2015
On Jan. 22, Microsoft announced the next version of its ubiquitous productivity suite: Office 2016 will appear in the second half of 2015. According to the announcement, the next standalone version of Office will be intended mostly for keyboard-and-mouse applications.
That announcement focused primarily on a native “Universal” Windows 10 version of Office. It’s the touch-friendly version of the suite, composed of Word, Excel, PowerPoint, OneNote, and Outlook. Microsoft’s Julia White stated that Office for Windows 10 will show up in Win10 Technical Previews “in the coming weeks” and be offered to everyone later this year. They’ll be preinstalled on Win10 phones and tablets but won’t, however, have the capabilities of Office 2016. We should soon see exactly what those limitations include.
A unified inbox is very nearly universal
Like millions of other Outlook users, I rely on Microsoft’s email client all day, every day. My primary email account is served by Office 365, and that account receives about 90 percent of my daily messages. But I also have a number of other accounts handled by Outlook: other Microsoft accounts, a handful of Gmail accounts, and an iCloud account.
Unfortunately, the way Outlook currently manages multiple accounts is cumbersome and clunky. I have to view each account separately. By default, Outlook displays only the primary inbox in the left panel’s Favorites section. I can, however, add inboxes for the other accounts. But I’ve ended up with six or seven entries called “Inbox” in my Favorites. Again, keeping on top of messages coming into those various inboxes is cumbersome — and time-consuming.
Oddly, it seems that Outlook is the last email client that doesn’t gracefully manage multiple accounts. Most others do.
Office for Apple’s OS X has a unified inbox
True confession: I spent a couple of years using a MacBook Air as my primary computer before switching to a Microsoft Surface Pro 3. On the Air, I used Office for Mac 2011. In many ways, Office on the Mac seemed less capable than the Office for Windows versions I’d been accustomed to using. But Office for Mac had one feature that stood out: a unified inbox — one inbox to rule all accounts.
I asked Microsoft why the Mac and Windows versions of Office were so different. But I mostly wanted to know why some features in Office for Mac 2011 weren’t available in Outlook 2013! Microsoft replied that the Office team for OS X is separate from the Office for Windows team — or at least it was.
Perhaps the two teams will share notes. One of the hardest things about transitioning from OS X to Windows was giving up that all-for-one inbox.
Both iOS and Android have unified inboxes
Email management on mobile devices was even worse. Microsoft’s Office Web App (OWA) for the iPhone is limited to just one email account. Period! Nevertheless, I used OWA for iPhone as my primary email account, mostly because it integrates directly with my contacts and calendar from Outlook.
I used the iPhone’s default Mail app for the rest of my accounts. I was often tempted to switch my Outlook account back to the Mail app because it has a unified inbox. Then Microsoft acquired Acompli.
Recently, Microsoft launched a new version of Acompli — rebranded as Outlook. It’s available for both iOS and Android, and it’s marvelous. I can now configure all my email accounts in a single mobile Outlook mobile app, under one inbox.
I find the mobile Outlook significantly better than Outlook 2013 on the desktop, so much so that my iPhone is now my primary tool for triaging and managing email. Along with the convenience of a single inbox, it lets me quickly filter important messages from the chaff. I can also quickly and easily schedule messages to reappear later so that I don’t forget about them.
Outlook for Win10 might have a unified inbox
We won’t know for a while how the tools in Office for Windows 10 will stack up against their Office 365 and Office 2016 counterparts. But it’s fair to assume that Microsoft will follow a strategy similar to that for its current line of mobile Office apps — providing functional but limited versions for free, and unlocking the full feature set with an Office 365 subscription.
We can only hope that the native Windows 10 Mail app will be equal to the latest Office for iOS and Android. The blog post announcing Office for Windows 10 states: “Keep up with your inbox with new touch gestures that help you read, sort, flag, and archive your mail.” Whether that means a unified inbox is hard to say. We should know within a few weeks.
Outlook 2016 needs a unified-inbox option
As much as I like a single inbox for multiple accounts, it’s fair to say that not everyone agrees. Many people prefer to keep business and personal email separated. And sometimes there’s good reason to focus on a specific email account.
Most email clients with an all-for-one inbox also let you view your various email accounts separately. I’m just keeping my fingers crossed that the next desktop version of Office will incorporate the features and capabilities of the mobile Outlook and give me both ways to view my mail. After all, Office for Mac has had those options for years.
Let us know what you’ll like to see in Office 2016, using the WS Lounge link below.
Can't install software due to "Error 2502/03"
When a software installation fails, and the Windows Installer yields only obscure error messages, the solution might lie with various permission settings.
Plus: Why image backups might fail on non-NTFS drives and how to delete the pernicious SafeSearch malware. Also, is Microsoft lying about Windows 10?
Error messages whenever installing software
Windows Secrets reader Walter asked for help with an arcane Windows error. He ran into it in Win8, but the same problem can occur in Vista and Win7.
- “I’ve been getting “Error 2502” or “Error 2503″ whenever I try to install a program in Win 8.1. I hope Mr. Langa can provide some insight.”
Errors 2502 and 2503 are typically caused by problems with .msi files.
An .msi installation file is a kind of software-information database. It contains all the pieces needed to install a particular application, plus information on which parts go where and what Windows needs to know to get the software up and running.
Launching an .msi file opens the system-level Windows Installer tool (more info), which uses the file’s information to properly set up the software. (Tech trivia: Windows Installer used to be called Microsoft Installer — or MSI. Hence the .msi file extension.)
Windows Installer has an additional role: it stores information on installed software in a hidden cache folder. The information is used if or when you uninstall an application.
If the Windows Installer can’t access or properly process information in an .msi file or the hidden folder, it might put up an “Error 2502” or “Error 2503” error.
The two most common causes for these errors are conflicts with anti-malware tools and software permissions. Here’s how to identify and correct the trouble:
Anti-malware problems: Start by checking your anti-malware tool’s logs or history function. See whether it blocked, quarantined, or otherwise interacted with the .msi file. If it did, scan the .msi file with one or more standalone anti-malware tools to ensure that the installation file isn’t infected (see the April 11, 2013, Top Story, “A dozen tools for removing almost any malware”).
If the scans confirm that the .msi file contains malware, delete the file and scan the entire PC for any other hidden malware.
If the .msi file is clean, edit your full-time anti-malware tool’s white list or ignore list so the tool no longer interferes with the app’s installation process — then try running the installation again.
Permissions problems: Assuming your anti-malware software isn’t the problem, the next step is to check Windows’ own security settings.
The fix could be as simple as enforcing administrator mode. Navigate to the folder containing the .msi file in question, right-click the file, and select Run as administrator. (Note: Downloaded .msi files are usually found in the folder: C:\Users\{username}\Downloads.)
If Run as administrator doesn’t work, try refreshing Windows Installer’s Registry settings. Open an admin-level command window, type msiexec /unreg, and press Enter. When the command completes (typically, in a second or so), type msiexec /regserver at the command prompt, and press Enter again. The Windows Installer should now be freshly reregistered.
If you still can’t install software, or you get 2502/03 errors when trying to uninstall the software, make sure that Windows Installer’s cache/file permissions are set correctly.
The Windows Installer cache is located in a hidden system folder — typically C:\Windows\Installer. How you access it will depend on your Windows version.
In Win8, open File Explorer and type (or copy/paste) c:\windows\installer in the address bar. When the folder opens, click the Properties button on File Explorer’s Home tab.
In Vista and Win7, navigate to C:\Windows. Select the Windows folder and open Tools/Folder options/View in Windows Explorer’s toolbar. Under Advanced settings, scroll down to Hide protected operating system files and uncheck it. Now navigate directly to the C:\Windows\Installer folder, select it, and click Properties.
When the Properties dialog opens, click to the Security tab and make sure that the System and Administrator accounts have full access permissions, and that the Everyone account has “Read & execute,” “List folder contents,” and “Read” permissions.
If all the above doesn’t help, you can try a deep-geek remedy: subinacl.exe. It’s a free Microsoft Resource Kit tool designed to let admins quickly modify NTFS file and folder attributes: Permissions, Ownership, and Domain. A Microsoft Answers thread contains a how-to on downloading and using subinacl.exe. (Note: Subinacl.exe is designed for older Windows versions, but I’ve run it successfully on Win8.)
And if even that doesn’t work, you can force all file/folder security attributes to their defaults. It’s not a particularly easy thing to do, but Microsoft Support article 313222, “How do I restore security settings to a known working state?,” lists the options.
I doubt you’ll need to go further than one or more of the above options, but if you do, you’ll find a few more techniques discussed in the Fix-KB.com thread, “Error 2503 and 2502 when installing/uninstalling on Windows 8.”
With a malware-free .msi file and with correct permissions, your new software should install smoothly.
Why do image backups fail on non-NTFS drives?
Vince Brennan ran into a problem when trying to back up his system with Windows 7’s built-in system-imaging tool. The same issue affects Win8 and Vista PCs, too.
- “A small problem: I can easily make Win7 backups on my 2TB external drive, but when I try to make a system image, the [Create a system image] tool says that the image could not be created because the drive was not formatted with NTFS. I’m confused.”
Starting with Vista, Windows’ built-in image backup tools were designed to work only with NTFS-formatted drives.
It’s mostly a matter of file size. Individual file-by-file backups are typically small, fitting easily within the maximum 2GB file size of FAT disks or the 4GB maximum of FAT32 disks. But system images of today’s large setups can run to dozens or even hundreds of GB in size.
If you want to store a large system image on an old-school FAT or FAT32 disk, you (or a backup application) have to split the large file into many smaller, sequential sub-files. Restoring such an image then requires stitching these many pieces back together.
That certainly can be done (it’s an option many third-party imaging tools allow), but imaging with lots of little files is obviously more complex and less efficient than imaging with a large, single, splice-free file.
NTFS has a theoretical file size maximum of 16 terabytes. Thus it can accommodate truly enormous files without having to slice, dice, or reassemble anything. It’ll be a long, long time before any personal system image you or I make exceeds 16TB in size.
NTFS offers other benefits, too. For example, it can automatically recover from some disk errors that break FAT and FAT32 setups — it’s also faster, offers better security, and so on. (For more on the differences between FAT, FAT32, and NTFS, see the comparison chart on the NTFS.com site.
The easiest way to deal with the NTFS required problem is to use Windows’ built-in convert.exe tool to do an on-the-fly drive conversion of your FAT or FAT32 disks to NTFS. You don’t have to erase or reformat anything — the convert tool works on the disk as-is, keeping all files intact. (Of course, it’s always wise to make a backup before any major system operation or change.)
For more on convert.exe, see the Windows help page, “Convert a hard disk or partition to NTFS format.” You can also open an admin-level command window and enter the phrase convert /? to see a list of available options you can add to the convert command.
For more on Windows’ built-in system imaging in general, see Microsoft’s “Back up your programs, system settings, and files” help pages for Win7 and Vista; for Win8, see the Oct. 10, 2013, Top Story, “Creating customized recovery images for Win8.”
Deleting pernicious SafeSearch malware
David Brownstein’s IE and Firefox browsers have succumbed to the same self-reinstalling malware infection.
- “My computer has been infected by a program that I’ve never seen before. It’s a real PITA. I need to get rid of it but can’t find a way to do so.
“It’s a Web browser add-on called SafeSearch. I’ve tried everything to get rid of it. I’ve run Malwarebytes, SpyHunter, AdwCleaner — I even searched through the Windows Registry.
“At one point, I thought I’d gotten rid of the add-on; it didn’t appear in IE or Firefox for two weeks. During that time, I didn’t download anything that could be connected with SafeSearch. I downloaded items only from trusted and well-known websites. I also cleaned out cookies every day. I even uninstalled my browsers after cleaning everything and reinstalled them.
“There must be a write-protected cookie somewhere that is reinstalling this thing. But I don’t know where to look for it. It’s not in temp directories, where most are kept.
“I don’t understand why the browsers would be stable for two weeks, then become reinfected. Do you have any suggestions?”
Ooooh, the SafeSearch you encountered is a bad one! (Note: There are legitimate products and services that are also called “SafeSearch.”) Your version of SafeSearch is an aggressive browser hijacker that’s usually distributed via the installation programs of “free” software. Among other changes, it adds its own tool bar and takes over as your default search engine.
This SafeSearch can infect all the major browsers. In fact, once it takes root in one browser on your system, it then tries to spread to any other browsers you have installed.
David, your initial cleanup efforts were right on the mark. Usually, some combination of AdwCleaner (free; site), Malwarebytes (free/paid; site), and HitmanPro (free; site) can find and remove SafeSearch.
Your next step was also correct: if anti-malware tools can’t clean up an infection, it’s usually safe and effective to roll back your browsers to their pre-SafeSearch conditions.
You reinstalled your browsers, which is an excellent way to get everything back to defaults. Chrome, Firefox, Opera (and similar third-party browsers), and some versions of Internet Explorer can usually be uninstalled via Control Panel’s “Programs and Features” (uninstall) applet.
But here’s a subtlety that’s easy to miss. Because SafeSearch can cross-infect from browser to browser, getting rid of it requires getting it out of all your browsers at the same time, to prevent cross-reinfection. Here’s how:
One by one, use your browsers’ Reset options to restore them to their original condition. All the major browsers offer built-in ways to revert to the initial, just-installed state. Check each browser’s help site (for example, Internet Explorer, Chrome, and Firefox). If asked, tell each browser’s Reset function to delete your saved settings, files, and similar data: You don’t want anything to carry over from your old setup to your new one.
Next, uninstall any/all browsers offering that option. (Some browsers, such as later versions of IE, cannot be uninstalled.) Don’t reinstall any browsers you are able to uninstall — at least, not yet.
Once all browsers have been reset and/or uninstalled, use your favorite anti-malware tool to verify that your PC is completely malware-free. For help, see “A dozen tools for removing almost any malware” (April 11, 2013, Top Story) and “Remove a recurring malware infection” (June 16, 2011, LangaList Plus).
When your PC comes up clean, you can then download and install a fresh copy of your favorite third-party browser.
This process should free your PC of SafeSearch, but you’ll also have to make sure it doesn’t find its way back into your system. Don’t relaunch whatever software (probably freeware) delivered SafeSearch, and don’t visit sites (such as download libraries) that trick you into downloading unwanted software and malware. For more info on unintended downloads, see the June 13, 2013, Top Story, “Avoiding those unwanted free applications.”
I know you said you visit only safe sites, David, but as you point out, your system was reinfected after several weeks of clean health. I suppose it’s possible that some time-bomb cookie or malware was involved. But the far more likely explanation is also the simplest — and saddest: one of your “trusted” sites is foisting malware on you. Be careful out there!
Is Microsoft lying about Windows 10?
Robert Vitalis’s note was unequivocal; its subject line read, “Microsoft is lying to us.”
- “The lie is the promise that Windows 10 will be a free upgrade over Windows 7, Windows 8, and Windows 8.1! If you upgraded from Windows 8 to Windows 8.1 and you do need to do a Refresh, you’ll have to go all the way back to Windows 8! You’ll have to reinstall all Windows 8 updates and then upgrade to Windows 8.1 again!
“Now you get a free upgrade to Windows 10? Are you still with me? If you do a refresh/restore years from now (and have to start with a rebuild all the way back to Windows 8), will free updates to Win10 still be available?”
If things pan out the way you fear, Robert, I agree: it would be bad.
But I don’t think that’s likely. I think your worry might be premature. Win10 isn’t finished yet, and no one outside Microsoft knows exactly how the upgrade process will work. (Microsoft might not know yet!)
Early indications actually point in the other direction. As of this writing, the latest Win10 Technical Preview release (build 9926) contains the same recimg tool found in Windows 8.
As you might recall, Recimg lets you create a custom-recovery image to preserve and restore your OS in an as-configured state, with all updates and upgrades intact and all third-party software already set up and ready to go. If you periodically make images of your system, you can always roll your PC back to a known-good, working state without having to go all the way back to the original factory image or other virgin setup. (For more information, see the Jan. 15 Top Story, “Mastering Windows 8’s backup/restore system.”)
Moreover, there are numerous third-party, free and paid tools that can create traditional system images on Vista, Win7, and Win8. It’s a near-certainty that similar third-party tools will be available for Windows 10. This will give you other ways — completely independent of Microsoft — to create interim roll-back points, which you can revert to without having to go all the way back to square one.
So, though there are still many questions about Win10 that need answers, I don’t think this is one to lose sleep over. Likely, there’ll be multiple ways you can create rock-solid roll-back points for Win10 setups — as you can already do in Win8, Win7, and Vista.
Options for upgrading your data storage
When you’ve cleaned out useless files on your hard drive, but you’re still running out of space, it’s time to up your storage capacity.
Here’s how to pick the best solution for your desktop or laptop system and how to move or distribute your files to a new drive.
That new drive could be either a traditional, platter-based hard drive or a solid-state drive (SSD). SSDs are considerably faster than typical hard drives, but higher-capacity SSDs are exceedingly expensive. For example, while most 1TB hard drives sell for about $80 (a few bucks more will get you a 2TB drive), a 1TB SSD will currently set you back $400 to $500. A 2TB SSD is typically north of $3,000.
There are ways to get hard drive–storage space with near-SSD speeds, though you’ll have to make some compromises. Below, I’ll review the best options for desktops and laptops, and I’ll provide the instructions for replacing your old drive with a new one. I’ll also discuss how to prepare Windows for new storage configurations.
Of course, if you’re not interested in significantly faster drive access, you can simply buy a larger hard drive and clone the contents of your old drive to your new one. For instructions, see my PCWorld article, “How to upgrade to a larger hard drive,” for details.
Whether you install an SSD or platter-based hard drive, the method you use to upgrade your storage comes down to one simple question: Does your PC have a spare drive bay? If you have a desktop, the answer is probably yes. If you have a laptop, it’s probably no. With that in mind, I’ll discuss separate desktop and laptop solutions. (If your desktop doesn’t have a spare drive bay, you can always use one of the laptop techniques.)
Desktop solution: Add a second hard drive
Sure they’re bulky, use more electricity, and can’t fit into your carry-on luggage, but many of us still use desktop PCs because they’re usually easy to upgrade and expand. With an empty drive bay, expanding your system’s storage is as simple as installing another internal drive. (The advice in this section also applies to those rare laptops with two drive bays.)
If your current drive is an SSD, adding a standard hard drive can vastly enlarge your storage capacity at very little cost. And if you set up the drives intelligently, the speed loss will be negligible. Much of the time, there won’t be any drop in drive access at all.
Here’s why. Your primary internal (typically, C:) drive spends most of its time accessing Windows, other programs, and a few data files that you work with often. The SSD will, of course, handle those files much faster than will a standard hard drive. The rest of your files — those that are infrequently accessed — can be moved to the slower hard drive. You can open them easily when needed, but doing so will have minimal impact on your system speed.
Once you’ve installed the second drive, it’s time to set it up and decide what to put on it. (If you run into boot problems after installing the new drive, go into the BIOS settings and make sure that the original drive is above the new drive in the boot-order list.)
Preparing the new drive for your less-used data:
Your new drive might come preformatted — in which case, when Windows boots, it will appear in Windows/File Explorer, typically as drive E:. If not, you’ll need to open the Windows Disk Management applet (diskmgmt.msc), set the new drive as active, and format it. (For more on this task, see the MS How-to page, “Create and format a hard disk partition.”)
Once you’ve got the drive fully accessible from Explorer, create a folder on it named with your sign-in. For instance, mine would be E:\Lincoln (assuming that Windows assigns the letter E to the new drive).
Within that folder, create new folders for the types of files you’re accessing infrequently. Typically, you’d start with Documents, Music, Pictures, and Video folders.
Next, add these new folders to the Windows libraries, where they’ll be easy to find and automatically archived by Windows’ built-in backup system. Note: The folders in libraries are virtual — think of them as shortcuts. Also, you’re not moving your existing libraries on the C: drive to the E: partition; you’re adding the new folders to the existing libraries.
To do so, open Explorer and select the appropriate subfolder under Libraries. (In Windows 8, you might have to make Libraries visible. Under File Explorer’s Home tab, click the Navigation pane icon and put a checkmark next to Show libraries.)
Next, add the new folders on the E: drive (or whatever the new drive is labeled) to the appropriate folders in Library. For example, right-click the Documents library folder and select Properties. In Win7, click the Include a folder button (Figure 1); in Win8, click Add. In the pop-up window, navigate to the E: drive and select the new Documents folder on the E: drive.

Figure 1. Libraries contain virtual folders linked to files and folders that can exist on various drives.
Repeat the process for the other folders you created on the new drive — i.e., link the E: drive’s Pictures folder to the Pictures library folder, Videos on E: to the Videos library folder, and so forth. (For a more detailed Libraries how-to, see the March 10, 2011, Top Story, “Make the most of Windows 7’s Libraries.”)
Now you’re ready to move most of your data from the primary drive to the second drive. And I do mean move — not copy.
Everyone has different work habits, so I can’t tell you specifically what to move. As a general guide, if you’re accessing a particular file several times a week, you should probably leave it on the SSD. Here’s how I would set up my system in this situation.
Documents: I’d keep the folders containing my current projects on the SSD and move everything else to the hard drive. When starting a new project, I’d create its folder on the SSD. When finished with a project or aware that I’m likely to need to access it infrequently, I’d move it to the hard drive.
Pictures and videos: I’d keep the images just downloaded from my camera on the SSD. I’d need to edit some and delete others. When finished with that task, I’d move them to the appropriate folders on the second drive.
Music: Just move everything to the hard drive. If you’re editing specific audio tracks, you can move them temporarily to the SSD.
Laptop solution 1: Install a new two-in-one
As noted above, most laptops have room for only one drive. But some desktops have only one drive bay, too. Obviously, you can’t install a second drive on these systems. So how can you get both SSD speed and hard-drive capacity?
Hybrid drives combine both technologies. They’re more expensive than a standard hard drive but significantly less expensive than a high-capacity SSD. For example, Western Digital’s WD Black² (info) hybrid combines a 120GB SSD with a 1TB hard drive. It sells for about $150.
That might seem like the best of both worlds, but dual-drive hybrids have their limitations. For instance, the Black² is 9.5mm thick, but many smaller laptops are limited to 7mm drives. And as far as I know, there are no hybrid models with hard-drive capacities beyond 1TB.
Moreover, WD’s Black² can be difficult to set up, and its manual isn’t all that helpful. Here are the steps I found useful:
- Go to the Black² Downloads page and grab two programs: Acronis True Image WD Edition and WD Black² installer for Windows.
- Use the USB-SATA adapter included with the Black² kit to connect the drive to your laptop.
- Install and run Acronis True Image and click the Clone disk option. When the Clone Disk Wizard starts, select Manual (see Figure 2).
Figure 2. To select the data to be cloned to SSD side of the Black², select the manual option.
- On the “What to exclude” page (Figure 3), check items that you want on the large-but-slow hard drive (rather than the small-and-fast SSD). Again, what you put on the SSD will depend on your work habits, but follow my guidelines in the preceding “Preparing the new drive for your less-used data” subsection. Keep in mind that everything you leave unchecked must fit onto the 120GB SSD, with some headroom to spare for new programs and temporary files.
Figure 3. Infrequently used files and folders should be excluded from the cloning process.
- When True Image finishes the job and shuts down the computer, remove the original drive and install the Black² in its place.
- Boot the laptop — and revel in a significantly faster boot (assuming you upgraded from a standard hard drive).
- Run the WD Black² installer application you downloaded earlier. This will initiate the new hard drive and make it available. (This program doesn’t work while the hybrid drive is connected via USB.)
- Create the appropriate folders on the new hard drive, as described above.
- Using the USB-SATA adapter to connect the old hard drive to the computer, copy to the new hard drive all files and folders you excluded (checked) on the “What to exclude” stage.
- Add the new folders to the Windows libraries, as described above.
Laptop solution 2: Upgrade to a semi-hybrid drive
If a 9.5mm drive won’t fit, there are smaller drives that still use some SSD technology. For example, Seagate’s SSHD line of hybrid drives (info) uses a small amount of SSD-like flash RAM as a high-speed cache.
As you might expect, these semi-hybrid drives won’t be as fast as models similar to the WD Black². But they’re much easier to set up. Maximum PC compared both types of drives in a July 31, 2014, article.
Seagate sells 7mm and 5mm models, so size isn’t likely to be an issue. And because your data is stored on a standard hard drive, the upgrade process is as simple as cloning the old drive to the new drive. (If speed is all-important and cost no impediment, you could buy a single, high-capacity SSD to hold all your data. Again, it’s a simple matter of cloning the old drive.)
Laptop solution 3: Add external storage
Adding an external drive is, of course, the simplest solution by far. You can move your infrequently used files to a USB hard drive or a network-attached storage (NAS) device. An external USB drive is the cheapest and easiest-to-set-up solution. But once set up, it’s kind of a hassle.
If your PC doesn’t have a USB 3.0 port, accessing files via USB 2.0 will be relatively slow — especially for really big files such as videos. More important, whenever you take your laptop on the road, you’ll have to choose between carrying the portable drive and temporarily doing without those files. By the way, I used this configuration last year when I went 30 days using only a Windows 8 laplet (article).
Alternatively, you could store files in the cloud and access them online when needed. Dropbox’s selective sync, for example, lets you keep all files in the cloud but only selected files on the laptop. You can do something similar with Microsoft’s OneDrive.
A NAS typically costs $50 to $60 more than a USB drive, and it lacks the plug-and-play setup of USB. But depending on your network, you should get better access speed.
Files stored on a NAS should be available from any computer on the network — whether connected by Ethernet or Wi-Fi. Moreover, most newer NAS systems have Web capabilities, allowing access to files from any machine attached to the Internet. And yes, these can be made secure.
Again, look over the preceding “Preparing the new drive for your less-used data” section to see how to distribute your files across the internal and external drives.
Balancing speed, price, capacity, and convenience
Data storage is cheap, and you have numerous choices. You don’t have to settle on one of the options I just described. With the massive amount of digital images, videos, music, and other types of files most of us now store, it’s likely you’ll end up with fast internal drives, slower external drives for infrequently needed files and backups, NAS drives for sharing data among multiple devices, and cloud storage for additional data security.
Now’s a good time to clean up your data and map out an overall solution for accessing and archiving it. In case you missed it, see the Jan. 22 Best Practices story, “Save money by cleaning up your hard drive.” Once you’ve removed your data detritus, you can decide whether it’s time for a new drive. (Why clutter up the new drive with duplicate and outdated files?)
A tour through Windows Process Explorer: Part 1
Windows has an exceptional number of diagnostic tools, some built in and others available as downloads from Microsoft.
Picking up where Task Manager leaves off, Process Explorer is an advanced, downloadable tool that provides a deep look at what’s running inside your operating system.
In this two-part series, I start with a quick tour though Process Explorer’s key views and options. In Part 2, I discuss some techniques for using Process Explorer, including ways to help hunt down potential malware.
An advanced tool for diving under the hood
Process Explorer is one of the many excellent tools available on the Microsoft Windows Sysinternals site. It provides a mind-boggling amount of information about what Windows is doing at any given moment. Whereas Task Manager shows a list of processes currently running, Process Explorer provides detailed information about each process and how it’s connected to other processes. It’s ideal for finding system bottlenecks and can even be used for ferreting out malware.
For example, Task Manager typically displays a long list of running svchost.exe files, but their purpose is largely unsaid. In Process Explorer, you can hover your cursor over a process and a tooltip will show you more information about the process.
That said, Process Explorer was designed as a troubleshooting tool for IT pros and can be daunting for most PC users. I’m no novice, but trying to learn how Process Explorer works was especially difficult. Many of the so-called tutorial links on the Microsoft site take you to the Microsoft Ignite Conference event page. Even the help file included with Process Explorer is thin and lacks tutorials.
I checked out the Process Explorer forums, but much of the content is quite old and not geared to first-time users. Needing some help, I reached out to my computing network and met up with TekTegrity’s Joshua Erdman. With his guidance, I was able to get a good foundation in what Process Explorer does and how to use it. Here’s what I learned.
Sorting through the haystack of running code
Process Explorer is essentially a portable app — in other words, it doesn’t fully install like most Windows applications. You won’t find it in Programs and Features. Simply double-click the downloaded ZIP file and then the procexp application file; Windows will create a new folder with the extracted files. Double-click procexp to launch Process Explorer. (You can also click the Run Process Explorer link on the Process Explorer site and run the utility directly from the Web.)
Process Explorer opens with a detailed list of running processes, with information on the CPU time each is using, how much memory is consumed, and other information (see Figure 1). For more information on a particular process, select View in the toolbar and then the Show Lower Pane option.

Figure 1. Process Explorer's main window provides information on all running apps and services.
One of the first steps in learning Process Explorer is understanding its color-coding system. You can customize the color codes using Options/Configure Colors (Figure 2), but the key default settings are these:

Figure 2. Process Explorer's color-coding system makes it easier to sort out different types of processes and process events.
- Green (New Objects): A process is starting.
- Red (Deleted Objects): A process that’s being stopped or killed. Normally, the process will flash red for a second before it disappears. You can extend that time by going to Options/Difference Highlight Duration and increasing the number of seconds the color shows before the process terminates.
This can be helpful when looking for malware. Quite often, malware infections are daisy-chained together, and each executable opens and closes quickly. Normally, you won’t have the time needed to see what the code is doing and then kill a process to break the chain. Using a longer highlight-duration time will slow things down a bit.
- Pale blue (Own Processes): These processes are running in the same user account as Process Explorer. Most of your currently running applications fall into this category.
- Pink (Services): These processes are running Win32 services. Most of them will be the ubiquitous but somewhat obscure svchost.exe that you also see in Task Manager. Simply put, svchost.exe is a process that hosts other processes. Unlike Task Manager, Process Explorer shows what each svchost.exe is hosting.
- Dark purple (Packed Images): For various reasons, executables might be compressed. When needed, they’re unpacked in memory. Legitimate applications such as VirtualBox and Skype might show up as packed images. But malware, too, is often packed to disguise its signature from antivirus applications.
- Dark orange (Jobs): These processes are part of a Win32 job. As noted on an MSDN Developer’s page, job objects are groups of processes that are managed as a single unit.
Other color-coding/process-type options are turned off by default. For example, .NET Processes (yellow) highlights applications that are using Microsoft’s .NET Framework.
Note: The Configure Colors (Color Selection) dialog box has a ? icon, ostensibly for help with the tool. But it seems not to work. Clicking it added a question mark to my cursor, but when I clicked an item, the question mark simply vanished — nothing happened.
As we move deeper into Process Explorer, you will see what some of the other processes do.
Other Process Explorer configuration options
It’s not necessary to have administrative privileges to run Process Explorer, but without them you won’t see all details. Also, keep in mind that Process Explorer doesn’t show everything on your system — it shows only what’s running.
Process Explorer uses a tree structure to sort processes into parent/child relationships. As shown in Figure 1, child relationships appear as right-indented entries immediately below the parent. Any single process that’s left-justified is an orphan.
The table of entries and related information works as you might expect. If you want to sort by CPU use, click its heading. If you want to change the sort direction (e.g., ascending to descending), click the header again. When you click, say, CPU, Process Explorer collapses the tree structure so that entries are easier to read (see Figure 3).

Figure 3. Clicking a column header reorganizes Process Explorer's information. In this example, processes are sorted by CPU activity.
When not sorted by name, process entries tend to jump up and down the list quickly, as Windows works on various tasks. That can make it hard to select and examine a particular process. If Process Explorer has a freeze-view function (as does the What’s my computer doing? app [download site]), I couldn’t find it. So if, for example, an unknown process seems to be using a lot of CPU time, it’s best to click the Process header (Ctrl + t) and look for that particular process in the tree.
If you want to see more details on processes, select File/Show Details for All Processes (not just the processes in use by the current user). Process Explorer will immediately refresh and then display more information such as Company Names, which can be useful when identifying processes. (Note: when you select All Processes, you’ll probably get a User Account Control warning.)
If you plan to use Process Explorer frequently, an option lets you use it in place of Task Manager. In Process Explorer, click Options/Replace Task Manager. The next time you click Ctrl + Alt + Delete and you select Start Task Manager, Process Explorer will pop up. (The tool doesn’t make this clear, but clicking Replace Task Manager again will restore Task Manager.)
To have the Process Explorer window remain on top of all other windows, select Options/Always On Top.
Process Explorer can also display small graphs of system information in the Windows taskbar’s notification area. Simply click Options/Tray Icons and select CPU History, I/O History, GPU History, Commit History, and/or Physical Memory History. When you hover your cursor over the mini-chart, a small popup displays current stats. (Note: To have the mini-charts show up on the taskbar, you might have to click the Show hidden icons triangle in the notification area, select Customize, and then select Show icon and notifications for each Process Explorer mini-chart.) Clicking any of the mini-charts pops up the full Process Explorer window.
If you find Process Explorer’s default font a bit hard to read, you can change it by selecting Options/Font.
You might find two other settings under Options useful: “Hide When Minimized” and “Allow Only One Instance.” With the Hide option selected, Process Explorer won’t show up among other taskbar application icons when you minimize it. It can, however, be found in the “Show hidden icons” list. Selecting the One Instance option prevents you from opening multiple windows of Process Explorer.
You can even change the opacity of the Process Explorer window so that other applications are less likely to be hidden behind it. Click View/Opacity and choose the percentage of transparency you want. However, Process Explorer is the proverbial “eye chart” by default; using almost any degree of transparency makes it even harder to read.
Charting overall system performance over time
Watching system activity in Process Explorer can quickly become overwhelming — it’s a mass of rapidly changing numbers. For stats such as overall CPU activity, memory consumption, and input/output traffic, charts can give you a better picture of potential system problems.
Click View/System Information, and Process Explorer pops up a separate window of charts (Figure 4). The first tab summarizes activity for the CPU, System Commit, Physical Memory, and I/O. Other tabs break those categories into their own separate charts and add text-based statistics. You’re undoubtedly aware of CPU and memory use, but System Commit and I/O might be less familiar.

Figure 4. Process Explorer's System Information charts showing the effects of playing a YouTube view
System Commit shows the amount of virtual memory reserved by processes. It typically goes up when applications open and down when apps close. There’s a commit limit, based on a system’s combined physical memory (RAM) and paged memory (the size of the hard drive–based pagefile). If your commit level keeps increasing, you could have a system problem.
The I/O chart shows the total level of system input/output tasks at any given moment. If you see a spike in the graph, hovering the cursor over the spike shows what’s causing it.
The lower pane: Diving deep into a process
Clicking View/Show Lower Pane opens a box below the main Process Explorer window (see Figure 5). Click on a process, and the lower pane displays either all related and open DLLs or system handles: files, Registry keys, synchronization objects (more info), and so forth. This information is mostly unfathomable to the average Windows user, but it can give you a map of all components associated with a process. You can switch between DLL and Handles views by clicking View/Lower Pane View or via the keyboard shortcuts Ctrl + d and Ctrl + h.

Figure 5. Opening Process Explorer's lower pane provides extensive details about specific processes.
Up next: How to use Process Explorer. Stay tuned for “A tour through Windows Process Explorer: Part 2.” Think of Process Explorer as Task Manager on steroids. There’s a lot to this tool. Between now and publication of Part 2, I suggest you poke around in Process Explorer, so you have an even better idea of what it can show you.
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