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I have recently chickened out of cloning my SSD and transferring the files to a new SSD. I took it to my local computer store and had them do it. Meanwhile, upon asking questions about upgrading to Windows 11. I learned that my current board and CPU and possibly my RAM will not support it. I know nothing about looking for a new board, CPU and or RAM.
Any suggestions? I like Intel but I am not opposed to AMD. I currently have MSi B350M Mortar board.
Why are you in a hurry to install Win 11? Stay with Win 10 as long as you can. It’s just getting broken in! So far I haven’t heard of any good reason to go to Win 11.
Initial searches for data on your motherboard suggest that it will support Windows 11 64 bit, but for a definite determination of how well supported your setup will be, we need to know exactly which AMD Ryzen CPU you have installed on the board, and how much of what kind of memory (RAM) you have installed on the board as well.
The lease expensive solution would be for you to be able to use the same board, CPU and memory, but only if Windows 11 will run well on that combination.
I downloaded the WhyNotWin11 tool. Everything was okay.
I do not know why I was told that my current motherboard and CPU were not capable. I assume that my previous SSD was too small to run Windows 11. Not that I am in any hurry mind you. I just want to be ready when the time comes. I am however thinking of upgrading my RAM. Is that very easy to do?
Your MSi B350M Mortar motherboard has four DDR4 RAM slots so, yeah, it should be pretty simple, you just need to ensure the new memory is compatible with your motherboard.
Official MSI How to install DDR4 memory youtube video
Official MSI Compatible Memory List
And here’s the download link for your motherboard’s manual (pdf contained in a zip file)
Note: if your current memory is 4GB×2 (i.e. 2 sticks of 4GB = 8GB), then simply buying another set of 4GB×2 of the exact same brand/model of memory would increase it to 16GB without encountering the “possible problems” caused by using different brands/models of memory in same PC.
If it’s 2GB×4 (i.e. 4 sticks of 2GB = 8GB), then just buy whatever memory is compatible for your board to get however much more memory you want.
I checked my original receipt and it only has one 8GB RAM currently.
If the receipt shows the exact make/model of memory, just buy another 8GB of the same.
If it doesn’t, download the free CPU-z tool, unzip it and run cpuz_x64.exe, select the SPD tab, and it’ll show the info you need to order an addition stick of RAM.
Right click the file:
Try this instead:
When I left click extract, a group of folders to be able to select where to put the files shows up. However it’s shaded in gray and I can’t select any folder or folders to put the files into. And nothing happens when I simply click on extract all. I may end up having to get a third party file extractor at this rate. I do not have the screen that looks like yours. My downloads folder is accessed through file explorer.
You should see something like this:
Use Browse (to the right) to select a folder.
I believe this is the Windows 10 Explorer form you are used to (not Windows 11). Instead of using WuMgr.zip (in this example), use cpu-z_2.01-en.zip as all the steps are the same only the Explorer a bit different in format. You don’t need a third-part extractor. Windows 10 (and Windows 11) provide the means to extract zip files.
Extract files:
I extracted files here:
Source:
https://www.askwoody.com/forums/topic/guide-to-using-wumgr-for-windows-10-updates/
You keep indicating you don’t see anything like the images being posted to help you but haven’t actually posted a screen shot of what you are seeing (which would be extremely helpful in figuring out what’s causing your problem.)
To take a screen shot:
Open explorer and go to where you’re trying to use the Extract All… option.
Press the PrintScreen button on your keyboard (it may be labeled PrtSc or PrtScn) while that screen is active.
Open Paint (mspaint.exe) and press Ctrl + V to “paste” the captured image into the program.
Save it as a PNG picture.
Attach the .png file to your post here on the AskWoody forum.
BTW, it’s “possible” your problem might be that Windows Security blocked the cpu-z_2.01-en.zip file you downloaded because it came from an “untrusted source“.
To determine if that’s what happened and unblock it if it did, right-click the zip file in Windows Explorer and select Properties.
If it was blocked, you’ll see an Unblock option at the bottom like this.
Clicking the Unblock button will allow you to extracted the contents.
I hope this image helps, if it is allowed. Otherwise I am getting frustrated.
Zig,
The link I provide for him to download CPU-z was for the standalone “portable” .zip version not the .exe installer version.
I did order 2 8GB of 2666 MHz RAM last night, so I don’t know if downloading cpu-z makes any difference or not.
Well, the idea was to help you determine the specific make/model of the 8GB memory you currently have so you could order a single 8GB stick of the exact same make/model but, since you’ve ordered a set of 2×8GB, that part doesn’t really apply anymore.
However, having CPU-z would still come in handy to determine info about the new memory once you get it installed.
BTW, like most motherboards, to ensure your new memory operates in “dual mode“, the memory sticks must be installed in specific slots (see page 26 of the MSi B350M Mortar motherboard manual.)
Paul,
Thank you very much. Changing to File explorer allowed me to be able to extract the zip file. I do not know if that selection was disabled at some point or never was enabled. With my current PC, I never needed to unzip any files before. Your suggestion sure helped.
I hope this image helps
Your image also shows the zip file is not blocked!
If Paul T’s suggestion doesn’t work, try clicking the Extract All item in the ribbon menu as shown in your screen shot.
If that also doesn’t work, please provide a screen shot of exactly what you see when you try to use it.
Keep W10 until the computer dies, then replace the whole lot. Anything else is a waste of money. 
cheers, Paul
Anything else is a waste of money.
Except maybe upgrading RAM to 16GB. (??Why did the system builder leave you with one stick of 8 GB RAM?? – you’re running your RAM as single-channel, which slows things down.) Given the “bad adwises” (Pumping Iron reference) you’ve gotten from them about upgrading to Windows 11 (probably an upsell), along with the RAM chosen by them, I think I’d take my business elsewhere in the future. Just my 2 cents.
Zig
While having “dual channel” memory (i.e. 2×4GB sticks instead of 1×8GB stick) would “double” the memory bandwidth to the CPU (i.e. it’d be able to read/write to memory much faster), how much quicker any particular program actually runs will vary widely.
Nice benchmark! An example would be if you bought RAM that was labeled as DDR4-2600, where an individual stick runs at 1300MHz per channel.
You only achieve the full 2600MHz bandwidth if you use 2x memory sticks at 1300MHz each, in dual channel mode!
You cannot get that full memory performance using only one slot!
FYI: if you have four RAM slots on your motherboard, they are usually color coded, so that you can insert pairs corresponding to the correct channels, i.e., DIMM_A1 + DIMM_B1, and/or DIMM_A2 + DIMM_B2.
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
I posted my previous example with the assumption that motherboard dependencies were implicit. Maybe that fact wasn’t so obvious, so apologies for that oversight!
Agree that dual channel memory must be supported by the motherboard.
I have been building Intel based systems for over 20 years. I have no experience with AMD systems, if in fact that’s what you may be referring to. But as far as current Intel boards are concerned, they require a 2 DIMMS/dual channel, module pair, to achieve full memory speed.
In fact, if I look at my current ASUS Prime Z390-A (Intel Coffee Lake) system memory modules with CPU-Z, it shows my 2 Corsair DDR4-2666 DIMM modules each running at 1333MHz DRAM frequency, which equals a 2600MHz rating as a pair.
I am running my DDR4-2666 (1333MHz max frequency) RAM using the XMP 2.0 profile. My setup is using 2 x 8GB modules.
“DDR4 operates at a voltage of 1.2 V with a frequency between 800 and 1600 MHz (DDR4-1600 through DDR4-3200)” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DDR4_SDRAM
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
One stick of DDR4-2600 will run at 2600MHz if the motherboard supports it and the setting is enabled.
Do you have a link or reference to support that claim?
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
One stick of DDR4-2600 will run at 2600MHz if the motherboard supports it and the setting is enabled.
Do you have a link or reference to support that claim?
My Computer Specs are in my signature, screen clips are taken from Task Manager Performance tab/Memory:
Note in the above clip that only one DIMM slot is occupied.
In the above clip two DIMM slots are occupied in dual channel configuration.
Obviously, the following is incorrect.
You only achieve the full 2600MHz bandwidth if you use 2x memory sticks at 1300MHz each, in dual channel mode!
You cannot get that full memory performance using only one slot!
The following is also incorrect.
But as far as current Intel boards are concerned, they require a 2 DIMMS/dual channel, module pair, to achieve full memory speed.
Mine is a current Intel board, and my screen clips tell the story.
… having to install two DIMMs in order to get the rated speed is not a thing. Going into UEFI and enabling the proper settings is a thing.
Dual Channel allows the CPU to read from two sets of RAM at the same time, and that theoretically doubles the throughput. But the CPU operates in GHz, RAM only operates in MHz, so the CPU is still left waiting for RAM input. Dual Channel doesn’t come anywhere close to doubling system performance.
Dual Channel allows the CPU to read from two sets of RAM at the same time, and that theoretically doubles the throughput. But the CPU operates in GHz, RAM only operates in MHz, so the CPU is still left waiting for RAM input. Dual Channel doesn’t come anywhere close to doubling system performance.
Can’t disagree with that statement, but will stand with the theoretical improvement in throughput using a dual channel RAM config.
If running in single channel, you are not getting the maximum memory throughput to your CPU. The benchmark posted earlier was a good example, which appears to show an approximate 25-30% improvement in that case. I’m fairly sure that single vs. dual performance varies based on the type of applications tested.
And the semantics of DRAM frequency and speed are referring to two different measurements, leading to a bit of confusion. My memory is Corsair VENGEANCE LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 2666MHz, PC4-21300 (2666MHz). As reported by CPU-Z, the DRAM frequency for each module here as set in BIOS at XMP-2666 is 1333MHz. Although Windows Task Manager reports my memory speed as 2666 MHz. Now I’m curious what Windows will report if I pop one module out here, as you did.
The Most Common DDR DRAM Myths Debunked https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ddr-dram-myths,4155-14.html
“When you put two DIMMs in dual-channel mode, the DRAM goes from operating as an individual 64-bit device to working together and being seen by the MC as a single 128-bit device. Theoretically, that would double the bandwidth, but in actuality, it provides a performance boost of only 20 to 50 percent on Intel CPUs, and a little less on AMD rigs.”
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
There are factory tested overclock speeds in the memory module’s DDR4 SPD tables.
https://www.techopedia.com/definition/3728/serial-presence-detect-spd
So you are not “officially” overclocking the memory beyond factory specs if you use a defined profile. In the Intel world, they are referred to as XMP profiles (eXtreme Memory Profiles). There is an equivalent for AMD, but you will need to research the details for how to set up the UEFI/BIOS in an AMD system.
https://www.pcgamer.com/what-are-xmp-profiles-and-how-do-i-use-them/
“Do AMD compatible motherboards support XMP?
Yes. You’ll find most AM4, Ryzen-compatible motherboards offer full compatibility for XMP. However, you may still find reference to AMD’s sister technology AMP, or X-AMP, on occasion.”
But no worries! Even if you cannot locate these settings in your UEFI/BIOS, the worst thing that can happen is that your memory will default to the conservative factory settings.
In my case the was the JEDEC settings of 1066MHz, instead of 1333MHz advertised per module. But is not an issue for general computing or web surfing!
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
The RAM you already have installed may or may not be tested at 2667, but it appears that your MSI board could support that speed if the RAM is capable. In many cases you may need to choose an *XMP (OC) profile in the BIOS to achieve the maximum supported speed of the RAM, otherwise a speed such as 2133 may be the default for that module.
Just adding another module would not automatically give you 2667 for both modules.
Compatible Kingston memory upgrades for your MSI – B350M MORTAR Motherboard: https://www.kingston.com/en/memory/search/model/96062/msi-b350m-mortar-motherboard
How to enable XMP: https://www.lifewire.com/enable-xmp-5120864
*Note: XMP, however, is an Intel product and isn’t explicitly named as such with AMD, though some AMD motherboards do include a compatible feature taking advantage of the SPD memory profiles. Enable this option in the BIOS.
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
I may not be able to add in a second King or Kingston 8GB DDR4 2133, or at least I don’t believe that I am able to.
As has already been mentioned in this thread, your MSI motherboard has 4 memory slots, and you currently are using 1 of them. So why would you believe that you are not able to add a second memory module?
It may have gotten lost in the dust here, but I replied to your post yesterday with a link to Kingston showing their compatible memory modules for your MSI board. You have options…
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
Can I keep my current King 8GB DDR4 2133 and add in one that Kingston’s website recommends and have the most benefit? The ones that they list of 8GB are 2666 not 2133 as what I have currently. They also offer a standard DIMM and a VLP DIMM, is there a difference?
I had never heard of VLP, so I just Googled it and it’s described as “Very Low Profile” memory, that seems especially designed for servers and embedded applications like routers, etc. I would skip that and stick to the standard DIMM!
If you want to run dual channel memory, it is recommended to get a matched pair of DIMMs. I’m unfamiliar with your motherboard or BIOS, but if you install modules with 2 different speeds it will likely work, but possibly default to the lower speed for the pair.
I personally have always bought my DIMMs in matched pairs (2x kits) so have not had any experience with mix and match, but I have heard that you can do so if you’re willing to accept less than optimal performance. Up to your budget!
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
That’s a great suggestion, if the budget is tight. But I would probably get the RAM and external disk. That MSI hardware should be good for another 5 years…
And I would run Windows 10 for as long as it’s supported by Microsoft, then knowing that hardware is Windows 11 compatible, upgrade to it when necessary.
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
Now I need to go back up to where it was mentioned installing RAM so that I don’t screw it up.
How to Install DDR4 RAM: quick YouTube video tutorial of the physical installation.
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
Thanks John,
That video was very helpful. I had thought the process was as simple as that. It has been a long time since I had done anything like that. I don’t suppose that a grounding strap would be necessary??
Well, I’m not going to make any specific recommendations here.
But suggest that you Google for various articles on the topic, and then describe what I do for myself.
If you think about it, a grounding strap is only useful when it is attached to an actual ground.
Once you unplug your PC power cord from the AC wall outlet, the PC chassis is not really grounded to anything, so in order to use a strap, you would need to attach it to grounded metal screw on an AC wall outlet plate or something.
So before I unplug my PC, I always shutdown and turn the power supply off, open the PC case cover, and ground myself by touching the metal PC chassis with my hand. Then I unplug the PC from the power source and proceed with the work.
I’m careful to use any supplied anti-static bags supplied with the components to store parts when they are are outside of the PC. And I avoid touching any of the plated electrical contacts, handling components by their non-conductive edges only.
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
I would ground my self to the chassis, that is what you want to be at the same potential as. Ground first on a wall socket, then chassis, then unplug. IMHO
I think that’s technically what I do when I ground myself to the PC chassis with the power cord still plugged in (and grounded), prior to unplugging the power cord. So that the PC, me, and the wall socket ground should be the same.
At work we used to have grounded anti-static floor mats, and grounded wrist straps, as we moved around a lot fetching spare parts, etc. But at home, that would probably be overkill, especially if you can limit your contact with static forming materials and activities while you are working in the PC.
Windows 10 Pro 22H2
I don’t suppose that a grounding strap would be necessary??
Nope.
All that is required is everything is at the same potential.
Put the PC and new memory (in its bag) and tools next to each other.
Touch a metal part of the PC and the memory and tools at the same time. This make everything equal.
Now you can take the lid off and install the memory.
cheers, Paul
Thanks Paul and John. Your advice was very helpful. I was able to install both modules without any problem. My PC booted up into BIOS when I turned it on. I believe I have it set for 2666 MHz. When selecting the Task Manager and process, it shows 2666 MHz. I don’t know if that was for one or both memory sticks. They did show as 2666 MHz in BIOS, so I think both are. Is there any way to test both to get the speed?
BTW, here’s an explanation of why there’s a difference between the displayed frequency CPU-z and other monitoring programs show for RAM vs the BIOS set frequency it’s suppose to be running at.
Discounting form factor and voltage/current requirements, RAM comes in 3 basic versions
SDR (Single Data Rate)
DDR (Double Data Rate)
QDR (Quad Data Rate)
SDR transmits one bit of data every clock cycle so RAM “operating” at 1333 MHz sends 1333 bits/sec which is an “effective” frequency of 1333 MHz)
DDR transmits two bits of data every clock cycle so RAM “operating” at 1333 MHz sends 2666 bits/sec which is an “effective” frequency of 2666 MHz))
QDR transmits four bits of data every clock cycle so RAM “operating” at 1333 MHz sends 5332 bits/sec which is an “effective” frequency of 5332 MHz))
SDR RAM (SDRAM) is rarely used anymore.
DDR RAM is the current standard for PC’s
QDR RAM is only used in special purpose servers.
CPU-z and other monitoring programs display the actual frequency the RAM is running at because it’s “easy” for them to detect the current clock frequency the RAM is running at but not whether it’s using DDR (or even QDR.)
So, for DDR type RAM, you always need to “double” the frequency they display for your RAM to get the effective frequency it’s running at.
If QDR RAM ever becomes readily available for consumer PC’s (it’s currently way too expensive to implement on standard motherboards), you’d need to “quadruple” it.
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