New Computer – Windows 10 1903

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I had Windows 10 1903 installed on a Dell Latitude E6540 (512GB SSD, i7, 16 MB Ram) in mid December.  Since I am not familiar with the updating process for Windows 10, does Windows automatically update me to the next versions?  Windows update tells me that I have a “Feature Update to Windows 10, Version 20H2” available.  Should I let it update or should I wait?  Is it better to get a different version (for example, 1909) and how would I do that?  Is there a charge to update?

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Firstly, are you on a Home or Pro OS?
Secondly, what is the current OS version?

I’ve just been involved in setting up a new Dell laptop, which built in December, came with the September Win10-2004 build number. We set this Pro machine to delay quality updates by 14 days, and feature updates by 210 days, in the Group Policies.

I suggest @pkcano’s AKB2000016 Guide for Windows Update Settings for Windows 10 is a very good place to start (especially bearing in mind the changed locations for settings in recent feature updates).

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[ECWS]

Windows Pro 64bit Version 1903

Also meant to ask what happens if I do nothing?  How long before it updates to 20H2?

• This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by ECWS.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by ECWS.

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That depends on your settings… While build number are you using? That will tell us which KB you have installed up to so far.

Also, are you running your internet connect as metered? Win10 is now better about honoring the “no updates over metered connections” than it was a year or so back.

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[ECWS]

Build Number that is 18362.1256

Not sure I know what a metered connection is so I am not sure if I am running a metered connection or not.

Checked the WiFi Network and it is switched to off.

• This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by ECWS.

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As 1903 is end of support you could just make an image backup to your external USB disk and then update to 20H2 to see how it goes. Easy to roll back via Windows or restore.

cheers, Paul

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What happens if I just wait until Windows updates it automatically?  How long before they automatically update?

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How long is a piece of string? (We don’t know)

I’d do it myself as I don’t want a reboot mid something important.

cheers, Paul

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I have just helped a poster move from Win10 Pro v1903 to v1909. Perhaps reading through that thread may answer some questions. v1903 is EOL, so you need to upgrade to a later version soon before MS decides to move you by force to v20H2.

To control Windows Update, I suggest setting Group Policy as in #2318864. Right now we are recommending v1909, but that may change to v2004 in the near future. v20H2 is not ready yet – so don’t choose that one.

The best way to understand the settings is to read through Sections 1, 3, 4 and 5 of AKB2000016, as linked by @Kirsty above. If you have any questions, ask here.

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ECWS

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You can disable Windows Update in various places; gpedit, services, task scheduler, registry mangling, utilities, whatever but at this point, 2009 (20H2) works and my recommendation would be to download an iso for usb drive, pick the “keep all my programs and files” or whatever the option is called and let the upgrade go.  I’ve done this on a desktop and five laptops over the last month or so and it works fine.  You won’t lose anything but a backup of important files is still always recommended when making big changes.  I do all version updates this way.

Being four versions behind, I’d not trust Windows Update to give you a good 2009 OS; there’s a good chance it’ll download or try to download every update, driver, etc., released since 1903.  Been there, done that, stuck in never ending upgrade loops.  Windows isn’t unique to this; get too far behind on Linux, router firmware, etc and a clean upgrade becomes a gamble.

Link:

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Insert a USB drive. Use the second option “Create Windows installation media.”

Click on the blue button”Download tool now”  The Media Creation Tool will quickly download.

Now, Go Offline, important!

Find the tool, Run it, pick the the option for a different computer when the tool starts.  Pick “keep files and programs… ” After completion, which takes a while, remove the USB drive, turn off your computer, plug in the USB drive, start and let it go, the computer will boot from the USB drive.  Thirty minutes later…new OS.  Typically, I leave the computer offline intil disk activity stops, maybe another 30 minutes, maybe less, for the OS to rearrange itself.

(The instructions on that MS page, although correct, are a bit too complete and can be very confusing.  Don’t try to follow links from the drop downs, everything you do happens when you run the Media Creation Tool.  The only click on that page is the blue “Download tool now” )

You’ll get the new edge (chredge) but it may still be offered as an option because you chose to keep your programs and files, IDK.  Either way, if you don’t want it, it can be cleanly removed:

https://www.ghacks.net/2020/07/07/how-to-remove-the-new-microsoft-edge-if-uninstallation-is-blocked/

 

If you’re at all curious about Linux, most Linux distributions are installed the same way: create an installer, download and attach the new OS to the installer then install.

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ECWS

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Thanks for the detailed explanation

Why is it better to do this:

Insert a USB drive. Use the second option “Create Windows installation media.”

Click on the blue button”Download tool now” The Media Creation Tool will quickly download.

than this (from the Windows Update page on my computer):

Feature update to Windows 10, version 20H2

The next version is available with new features and security improvements.  When you’re ready for the update select “Download and Install”

What happens if I do not go off line?: Now, Go Offline, important!

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ECWS wrote:

What happens if I do not go off line?: Now, Go Offline, important!

You go offline before booting the ISO USB and installing 20H2 in order not be forced to create a Microsoft account. In addition, going online will force all updates, drivers (you don’t download/install drivers with windows update).
While offline after the update you can go over all settings, GP.. and set them the way you want and then you can go online.

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ECWS wrote:

Why is it better to do this: Insert a USB drive. Use the second option “Create Windows installation media.”

It’s not, Windows will happily upgrade from an ISO mounted on a running system.
Your choice.

cheers, Paul

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ECWS

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Thanks for the suggestion.  Still trying to get clarity.  So used to Windows 7, it is taking a while with all the new options of Windows 10.

When you say “ISO mounted on a running system” do you mean that would be the “Download and Install” option on Windows update without a USB.

Not clear about the disadvantages of staying online while updating since I think I already have a Microsoft account since I have Office 365 (one of five available from company) that I log into with user name and password.  One drive has already loaded.

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“ISO mounted on a running system” is the downloaded OS iso file roughly 4-5Gb in size.
When in file explorer, you can right click the iso file and ‘mount’ it and run ‘setup.exe’ from within the iso which will upgrade your system. Just got to remember to ‘unmount’ the iso by right clicking when all is finished.
Installations/upgrades whilst offline gives the admin-user more control over the process.

Windows - commercial by definition and now function...

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ECWS

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Thanks.  Beginning to understand a little better.

So does this mean there are three options when clicking in Windows update “Download and install?:  1) Downloads to a USB drive 2) Downloads to an ISO file on your computer 3) Downloads and installs automatically? (No experience with the first two options)

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I was not comfortable having on EOL (1903) on my new installation.  After reviewing the comments here went to Windows Update and pushed Download and Install.  (Previously used Macrium to create an image).  The update took about an hour.  Downloading paused at 92% for about 10 minutes, hard drive light was not blinking  I placed the computer in sleep mode (after reading some comments about what to do when downloading stalls) and then turned it on again.  Everything seems to be working ok.  Did a chkdsk and sfc /scannow.  Both were ok.   Checked VPN to office computer.  Also checked Office 365. All seemed to be working a little faster.  Also Windows updated all the drivers.

Checked updates again and Security Update for Flash Player installed.  Also a Cumulative Update Preview for Net Framework 3.6 and 4.8 (Probably should not have installed that one).  Optional Updates is letting me know if I have a specific problem and is offering to install Intel System – 10/3/2016 10.1.1.38.  Not sure what problem I would be having where I would need that driver.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

Any other suggestions on the last paragraph or what I should check?  When will it be safe to do a cleanup?

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I presume that you were prompted to reboot the computer and have done so.

Right click on the start menu icon and select the menu option labeled “Run” and hit the Enter key. Now in the resulting box, type “winver” and hit the Enter key again. This will bring up a box telling you what version and exactly what build number of Windows you are on.

Please try to post a screenshot here of what the results of that command show, if not then simply telling us what it says will suffice but at a minimum please post the build number that’s listed in the box. This will let us know if you’re fully up to date for 20H2 (including the monthly patch for December) or not.

If you’re on Windows version 20H2, then there may be some tweaking you might want to do in order to keep Windows from updating your new version when it feels like it. Some of the update settings that help control how the updates for Windows are delivered and installed have changed locations from where they were in version 1903, and you may wish to check them to see that they’re still set the same way you had them before the update from 1903 to 20H2.

However, that is a subject for another thread. But the good news is that there is plenty of information about that already on this site, including an AKB article from @PKCano, that can go a long way towards that goal and keep the thread length fairly short.

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[ECWS]

Windows Version 19042.685

Only problem noticed is that the that the Equalizer Presets are gone when I check Dell Audio.

Have read of several solutions but wanted to check before trying them before I make the problem worse.

• Delete driver and restart
• Update driver
• Download Driver which I found on Dell’s website and reinstall it 6.0.1.6098, A12

If I try either of these will a system restore put them back if they do not work?

 

• This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by ECWS.

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ECWS wrote:

When will it be safe to do a cleanup?

After you have made an image backup to USB HDD.

cheers, Paul

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I posted that long ISO thing above.  It’s the most likely to work but many times just letting Windows Update do a version upgrade works fine.  Windows Update worked OK on one of our devices but not on the second of six, so I chose the semi-nuclear option on the rest.

Easierer is betterer, whatever works!

Re: equalizer presets, I’m assuming the function is missing vs. a reset to neutral.  If so and the program is a Dell OEM installed item, best to go to Dell and update the drivers using your Service Tag on the computer label.  There’s an OEM partition in your computer that probably made some other changes when the OS was upgraded but missed this.

Almost there…nice work!

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ECWS

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Thanks.

Equalizer is there and functioning but the presets are missing.  Thinks like “Classic,” “Jazz,” “Rock,” etc.

Went to the Dell website for my computer and downloaded the driver for my particular model which is the same driver when I check under Sound/Realtek.  Do I uninstall the driver and the install this one – in effect reinstalling the same driver.  Or do I install the driver on top of the old one.  Guess I am concerned about what would happen if I uninstall the driver and making the problem worse.

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In going to Dell’s site to see the details of the driver you say is available from them, it appears as if it was last updated in October of 2019. This would suggest that at a minimum, it’s fully compatible with Windows 10 1903, and maybe even 1909.

It could be that the equalizer isn’t fully compatible with some changes made to Windows 10 since October of 2019, and that’s showing itself as the lack of the presets.

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ECWS

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Tried to update the driver for the Realtek High Definition Audio said I had the latest driver.  Then I tried to uninstall the driver and the only choice was to uninstall the device.   Thought it would restart and reinstall the driver.  However, under Sound, video and game controllers a “High Definition Audio Driver” appeared.  Dell Audio disappeared.

I had previously downloaded the driver from the Dell website that you adn Anonymous mentioned and installed it.  The Realtek High Definition Audio came back and the High Definition Audio Driver disappeared.  Also Dell Audio reappeared and the Equalizer presets were there.  Now I am wondering which of the two is better!

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[Bob99]

Based upon what you described when you first noticed the missing presets and what you described above with their having returned and the device being labeled as being Dell, I’d have to say the driver you just reinstalled from the Dell site is the best overall for your setup.

Time to go put that driver’s file you got from Dell in a safe place in case you need it again in the future if the equalizer presets don’t successfully make the jump from one version of windows 10 to another. 

• This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Bob99.

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What was confusing was that that was the exact driver was installed by Windows 10 when I checked in Device Manager.  Seems like I had to uninstall it and then reinstall.  Not sure why.

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[Bob99]

Sometimes drivers just get borked during the version upgrade process, or they just go bonkers on their own with repeated use.

I do have a question for you, though: Does the utility that is part of the driver package just give you presets for the type of audio (jazz, classical, concert hall, etc.) or do you also have the ability to adjust the various frequency responses as well, such as 250Hz, 500Hz, 1000Hz, etc.?

Congratulations, by the way, on successfully making the jump from 1903 to 20H2!! 

I’m still hanging back on 2004, waiting to make the jump to 20H2 next month after letting 20H2’s code cook just a little longer.

• This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Bob99.

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Did not notice ability to adjust frequency responses however it also has this page:

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Just click the word “Equalizer” under the Maxx Voice Pro 2 title, that should give you those “long lost” presets and maybe the ability to change one or more of the frequencies I mentioned.

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All 36

presets are there, however no option to change frequencies that I could see

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OK, last reply, as we’re getting off topic with respect to the title of this thread.

To change the “level” of any of the frequencies shown (i.e. increase the response from that frequency or decrease the response from that frequency) simply put your mouse over the little black square at the top of the blue column for that frequency and treat it like the slider at the right side of any window…left click on the square and hold it to raise or lower the slider along the column. Raising it will make that frequency more prominent and lowering it will have the opposite effect.

At least it looks to me like you should be able to do that from what I see in the screenshot you’ve posted.

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Yes – you’re right.  I did not realize these were frequency changes.  Also notice I could custom and then save them as an additional equalizer setting.

Thanks for your help

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[Bob99]

You’re Very Welcome!

Now, to sort of get things back on track with the main subject of this thread, since you’re now on 20H2, please follow @Paul-T ‘s advice in post 2325048 above in this thread with respect to performing a backup and subsequent cleanup if you haven’t already.

• This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Bob99. Reason: changed advice in post for what to do next

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I think this is still on topic – and it may help others.  Should I install these drivers.  They showed up after Windows update.  I know about the Canon driver, however have no idea what the others are for.

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Since they’re listed under the “Optional” category, don’t worry about them and don’t download/install them unless you’re having problems. Microsoft even kinda says so in the text in that screenshot you posted: “If you have a specific problem, one of these drivers might help.” I added the emphasis on the word specific. By the way, I’ve got the same two updates listed as optional on one of my two computers.

Standard advice here is Don’t Install Optional Updates.

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ECWS

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Thanks again.  Glad I do not have to be concerned  about them.

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After you complete that, please feel free to reread post 2324537 above from @PKCano , specifically the second and third paragraphs of it. Don’t worry about the advice to avoid 20H2, because you’re already on it so no need to avoid it.

Basically, after you get the system backed up and cleaned up, you’re going to need to see if your update settings from 1903 made the move over to 20H2, and they’re not located where they used to be for the most part.

If you’ve already done this step of checking your update settings, the please accept my humble apologies.

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Thanks – did the backup with Macrium, waiting on the cleanup – just in case.

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[Bob99]

You may see a folder on your hard drive labeled “Windows.old”. That’s a backup of your previous Windows installation that was automatically made during your upgrade to 20H2, and it will be used if you decide for some reason to revert back to 1903. It’s supposed to stay there for 10 days after your upgrade to 20H2, after which Windows will automatically delete it. That’s normal behavior for Windows.

Something tells me that it’s best to let Windows delete it automatically rather than trying to delete it manually yourself, even if you’re 1000% sure you’re never going back to 1903.

• This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Bob99. Reason: added folder deletion advice for old folder

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Found it!  Thanks for the info.  When it disappeared would have thought I deleted it accidentally.

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[Bob99]

So, just to reiterate, in this case, don’t delete it, let Windows do the dirty work for you! 

Also, I’d advise you to not do your cleanup until after that folder’s gone, since it takes up over 27 gigs of space and that’s quite a chunk, even on a 500 gig SSD. Once that folder’s gone, that that much less stuff that will have to be moved around or organized during your cleanup.

This goes to show that things sometimes take longer than usual. Prior advice I’ve read here in other threads has been that Windows removes the .old folder after 10 days, but in your case, it’s now been 14 days!

• This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Bob99. Reason: added cleanup advice

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Thanks – will wait.  Any suggestions to make Windows 10 run more efficiently?  I used to use CCleaner to clear temporary files and clean registry.  Seems like none of that is needed now?

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ECWS wrote:

Any suggestions to make Windows 10 run more efficiently?

IMHO, in these days of SSDs, ‘efficiency’ is more about managing out-of-control/poorly configured processes invoked by automatic services rather than filesystem I/O (which is mostly the result of automatic processes, especially during the first ~10 mins of startup of a Windows 10 system running with default settings).

I often use VMs to test Win 10 scenarios. I don’t want to waste 10 mins every time I reprovision and startup a new Win 10 VM. As a result I disable (and often delete) multiple default autostarting services and tasks so I can use the VM much quicker for MY own purposes rather than MS’.

In my experience, MS’ default settings are not for our benefit… so I amend them with gusto.

(Do you remember when in-house Windows developers like Raymond Chen took such care (and apparent pride) in letting us know how we could amend our own Windows systems to take advantage of undocumented features? It was all ‘Hey, did you know that you can do this!’… Compare that to the current ‘lock down/lock out unless sanctioned’ attitude nowadays.

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Do you have a list of the changes you make? A new thread “Tweaking W10 Services” might be useful to others.

cheers, Paul

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Alex5723

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I think the BlackViper has all the tweaking needed for Windows 7, 8, 8.1, 10

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