Windows 10 new install: Which version? And how to handle very first updates?

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Aside from some try outs now and then in Virtualbox, I’m a newbie regarding Windows 10. I want and need to get acquainted with it, because in the near future my preferred Win7 Pro won’t get anymore security updates.
After my failed attempt to install it on an external drive, I decided to purchase a second internal drive and install Win10 on it. I will keep running Win7 on the other internal drive.
My Win7 Pro x64 follows the Group B guidelines, and I want to handle Win10 Pro the same way – so far as possible. This is a stand-alone pc.

The last few years I read a lot about Win10 and its pitfalls in the Windows 10 posts and Woody’s and other articles, but I didn’t engrave all that information in my brain and system like I do with Win7. So I don’t know the essential/important ins and outs. Especially not the most recent and still/not relevant ones.
Here come my questions. All help greatly appreciated.

A. 1709/1803/1809: Which version to install on a stand-alone pc?
B. And which updates to install and avoid?

The updates will of course depend on the installed version. I don’t know of a single list that shows every good and bad version related update, so I will look into Susan’s Master Patch List to see what to (not) install. And I will read what’s in the Knowledge Base articles, but probably there is a lot more to be aware of.

I will probably run the installer while being disconnected from the web, and have my pc maker’s drivers ready on a pen drive. The next thing I will do is change all update settings etc., but eventually I will have to reconnect and I don’t know what happens next.

I have a 5-9 hour time difference with most of you, so forgive me for not answering quickly now and then.
Cheers

 
You may have noticed that I changed my nickname from LeaningTowardsLinux to LTL. Sounds and looks better, and I still find Linux much harder to comprehend than Windows, so I’m not leaning towards it so much anymore.

LMDE is my daily driver now. Old friend Win10 keeps spinning in the background

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If you have Win7 pro with an OEM key in the Bios then you should get Win10 Pro, definite bonus. If, as you say, your installing it to a 2nd HDD on the same machine. It should connect to the net and Activate and register your Key, however set up your update deferment policies/settings/software O&O, etc before you connect to the net. If your creating a USB install Stick (definitely recommended using Rufus and to specify which HDD its going on during install. If you run from the Desktop it’ll try and upgrade Win7 and I am guessing that’s not what you want) throw an ei.cfg file in your Sources folder on the prepared USB stick, to select the Version, in your case it’ll be Pro, during install. Win10 should Auto detect which version your entitled to during install but not always in which case you’ll get Home and on subsequent connect to the Net it’ll probably throw you in to a Pro upgrade. https://www.intowindows.com/how-to-select-pro-edition-while-installing-windows-10/ that should cover it better than I can.
Editions or Versions tricky one that one, 1709 was problematic for me with Networking on a closed Network and its near the end of life anyhow soon. 1803 is competent but to avoid the charms of a 1809 upgrade you need to be on your toes as its on release right now and if you haven’t set your deferments correctly or arent vigilant enough you may be thrust in to an upgrade should you connect to the net at some point. 1809 well it works the early niggles, for me least ways, have been ironed out but its far from perfect alas. Probably go for 1803 as a recommendation as a middle of the road pick.
I am currently trying out this little prog from David Xantos WUMGR set to run on Boot with this little trick it allows you pick and choose your updates.
Although be aware the first connect to the Net you have to use it quick as soon as Win10 detects a network connection it’ll be downloading Drivers even over metered connections which should also be set as part of any regular deferment strategy.
Should just mention in closing if in Settings Windows->Update-> Advanced options set the deferment to 30 days for example you’ll get last months updates rather than this months crop. Gives you a bit of breathing space. I generally do on clean installs.
What I forgot to mention if you never intend to connect to the net, or rarely, you can use any version of Win10 that’s in the Win10 .ISO without Activation with the minimal of repercussions, loss of functions or the torture Win7 puts you through if you forget or don’t want to to activate. https://www.howtogeek.com/244678/you-dont-need-a-product-key-to-install-and-use-windows-10/ so there’s a few scenario’s or food for thought should you dare to tread on the Dark Side

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TJ, Microfix

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@LTL-

TJ wrote:

B. And which updates to install and avoid?

W10 does not allow the granular control of updating that Windows 7 has. What the Pro version allows you to do is delay updating longer than those people on the Home version are able to, so that other people detect problems, and Microsoft will hopefully have them corrected before the time runs out, and you must install them.

There are some update blocking techniques that include making changes in the registry… and so far, the Pro version respects the registry settings, while the Home version is ignored.

Non-techy Win 10 Pro and Linux Mint experimenter

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TJ

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Thanks @BobbyB.
My BIOS does not provide a key (found it though), so I will indeed need to embed an ei.cfg file and be able to choose the Pro version. Thanks for the link.
Regarding which version: I remember Woody saying that 1803 has turned out to be a disaster (or something like that), and 1809 to have potential, because of MS’ change of testing version updates and correcting it. So what’s your take on this, @Woody? Input from all MVP’s highly appreciated!
I will look into David Xantos’ WUMGR but by now there are so many tools, that it’s hard to know which is the most diligent one. Looks nice though.

Thanks to you too, @Elly.
I know about the difference in update tweaks between Home and Pro. I’m going from Win 7 Pro to Win10 Pro – is the intention.

(BTW, last night after I posted this topic, I had to edit it and once I saved it, it was gone from view. It did not turn up in the forum topic list, nor in my profile overview. I gathered it was a protective action from askwoody.com (like it used to be when editing several times), and it did turn up again this morning (it’s 1PM here now.) However, this time I only made 1 edit immediately after posting.)

To further clarify my (re-)quest: I would like higher developed humans to tell me
Do install 1709, because …., but be aware of ….
Do install 1803, because …., but be aware of ….
Do install 1809, because …., but be aware of ….

Thanks

LMDE is my daily driver now. Old friend Win10 keeps spinning in the background

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TJ wrote:

To further clarify my (re-)quest: I would like higher developed humans to tell me
Do install 1709, because …., but be aware of ….
Do install 1803, because …., but be aware of ….
Do install 1809, because …., but be aware of ….

On a fresh install, I’d say it probably depends on the hardware, either 1709 or 1809. I’d see if I could just skip 1803 altogether.

I’d go with 1809 (the 17763.253 build) if you have a vendor-certified driver package for it, no other nontrivial devices to keep connected during a reboot, and no applications depending on old Jet files (“Access 97” or “Access 95” format).

Now if you *do* have USB-connected peripherals constantly attached, or need a version right now that old databases don’t break on, or don’t have known-good drivers, 1709 is a lot safer.

From my experience, upgrades to or from 1803 *usually* cause some amount of breakage. However, on this exact system I’m typing now, I did a 1709->1809 upgrade (yes, full image backup first, of course) and nothing unexpected has broken so far – I don’t have any of those Jet databases and don’t use Edge…

It also seems that the upgrade/update procedure is where most of the breakage happens, so that alone is a point towards the newer versions. Avoid the riskiest part, you know.

(Hm, that quoted emoji behaves weirdly…)

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TJ

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FTFY

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Vendor-certified driver package: check.
No nontrivial devices connected during a reboot: check.
No applications depending on old Jet files (“Access 97” or “Access 95” format): check. (Except for an old version of Filemaker, but that had to be upgraded anyway.)
The advantage of not having to ‘upgrade’ to another version soon also makes me prefer 1809.

That makes 2 votes for 1809 Pro (on a stand-alone pc).

LMDE is my daily driver now. Old friend Win10 keeps spinning in the background

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If you have relatively recent hardware I recommend 1809. Windows 10 Pro should be your choice if you need more control over your PC. 

I ran the Insider Builds of 1809 for 6 months without problems. I may have had to turn off Fast Startup for a while because of some goofy issue but turned it back on later. Nothing serious.

I also recommend you do not add third party products to change the Windows 10 UI until you’ve had a good chance to try it out. Get used to the Windows 10 paradigm. Give it a fair shot.

--Joe

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TJ

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Thanks, but like I wrote before: I want to go from Win7 Pro to Win10 Pro. Never considered Home. The question is about 1709 Pro, 1803 Pro or 1809 Pro. And sure I will give it a fair shot.

However, you’re the second person to recommend 1809.

LMDE is my daily driver now. Old friend Win10 keeps spinning in the background

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I’m a new participant here.  Because Adobe Lightroom does not work in Windows 8.1 (won’t up date to current version that I need for a Nikon Z 6) I was forced to update to Win 10.  I did a clean install of the PRO version to a new SSD and it went quite smoothly without any glitches.  I had all the hardware drivers and installed those once Win 10 was installed.  Version of Win 10 is 1809-17763.253.  It was a mild drag reinstalling all my software and making sure the setting files were correctly transferred and that took several a couple of hours and there were no hiccups.

I’ve configured it not to auto install updates.  Right now I like Win 10.

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b

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Another 1809 vote here, now that MS appears to have fixed the initial problem—on the simple basis of why would some earlier version be better, you may as well start out up-to-date.

After the new install, get the full raft of updates.
Then make an image of your system drive.

Install your security software.
Use Ninite.com to bulk-install some of your software, then install the rest of your software.
If necessary, use PatchMyPC or Glary Update to get your software up-to-date.
Make another image of your system drive.

You now have 3 steps you can take backwards if anything goes wrong, 2 images & the initial install media.

Lugh.
~
Alienware Aurora R6; Win10 Home x64 1803; Office 365 x32
i7-7700; GeForce GTX 1060; 16GB DDR4 2400; 1TB SSD, 256GB SSD, 4TB HD

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HiFlyer, TJ

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Thanks for the vote. (I missed your answer, hence the late reply.)
Yes, till now 1809 seems the way to go.

Hope nót to update the full raft , only what’s absolutely necessary. Images, yes of course.
Win7 will stay my goto os till probably december. I have Norton running on it, but for now I’m not going to install a third party av on Win10. I want to see how Defender handles things in combination with other -just as important- safety measures. I have almost a year to dabble and struggle with Win10.
Ninite is handy, but it doesn’t provide many programs that I use. And I don’t mind spending time on installing software exactly how and where I want it to be.

Cheers

LMDE is my daily driver now. Old friend Win10 keeps spinning in the background

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