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I would try various attempts, but I don’t particularly care for your choice of the Z87 chipset motherboard.
I think the X99 would have been a better choice with it’s abundance of SATA lanes, which are specifically suited for
running many high capacity drives…like a server.

It works flawlessly for my 9 drives, including 1 DVD/CD ROM and an M.2 main OS drive.
No more reliance on PCIe drives and controllers, which I always thought were buggy at best.

Sorry, not much help.

Of course a beefy PSU is needed, I use a 1000W 100% modular.
But I don’t think your PSU is the issue.

If you’re fearful of removing the caps and not being able to get them back on, wash the entire keyboard by
submersing in warm soapy water for 30 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
The important thing will be to allow the keyboard to dry completely. works best if you live in a low humidity climate.

Don’t get too terribly excited, it only 2.2 GHz and it’s for a WORKSTATION type PC.

I’ve heard a lot about buggy Blue-Ray software.
If it holds up, great, if not I’d go looking for another app to run it. Do some research before you buy though.

You may need to uninstall, then reinstall HP’s power management software.
If you do not have HP’s power management software and drivers installed consider doing so…

The retailers power management software and drivers are usually superior to Windows built it.

Moral of story – don’t make assumptions, ever. Check simple things first (as someone recently told us). Break either of those and you may find you have a non working item, when it is really all OK. Ho hum!

Troubleshooting (i.e. critical thinking) is a skill you’ll want to develop. It always pays for itself every time.

I was going to order an external Blu Ray player that will work with USB 2 or 3, but thought I’d seek help here before spending over $100. Any suggestions? BTW, I have a second Blu Ray player without the burner, but it will not work either.

I agree with Roland, take a closer look into your software before throwing more money away.

1. What is the absolutely simplest reliable free backup (and restore) system?

There are only opinions.
You will need to make an attempt to LEARN what type of backup regimen is right for you.
Then you will need spend time reading through all those information/how-to pages of the app you intend to use to get the best understanding possible.
In other words, you have to actually do some work of your own.

2. How is it possible to know which backup programs are reliable and safe?

YOU CAN’T
You will need to test the app of your chosen backup regimen by preforming a restoration. This will mean knowing how
your system boots, what it takes to access the boot disk, and most importantly, how to use the boot disk.

Sleepmode troubleshooter:
powercfg -ENERGY

Sleepmode troubleshooters may provide information on what device is keeping your os from sleeping soundly:
powercfg -ENERGY
(Evaluation of energy efficiency and errors)
powercfg lastwake
(what had Waken Up Windows Last)
powercfg -a
(Checks available sleep states for your computer)
powercfg -devicequery wake_armed
(List devices that can wake up your computer)
powercfg -devicedisablewake “exact name of device”
powercfg -deviceenablewake “exact name of device”
(disable and re-enable listed device: Respectively)

powercfg -restoredefaultschemes

The modern hassle free way to close your FB account: Post something that is politically incorrect.

A Two month old backup is better than no backup.
Bite the bullet, live and learn.

*Email should be backed up independently of an image.
*Programs and license keys should also be backed up independently.

I would recommend a full clean install for those with issues after performing an upgrade install to WX from
any previous OS.

3rd party software & drivers tend to produce the lion’s share of all the negative issues, especially with upgrade installs.

So go ahead and do what you need to do to attempt resolution, by working from least invasive means to more,
but keep in mind you may be heading in the general direction of full clean install.

I commonly backup both my main desktop system & laptop to a single external drive with MR, but I know nothing of the backup app you refer to.
So do some homework and read up on your chosen back up program’s specifics.

This is one of the primary reasons that some of us openly advocate PURCHASING a copy of your preferred operating system
independently of your computer’s purchase when you first buy your computer, as oppose to settling for the OEM manufacturer’s limited offerings.

The OEM licensed OS you have will in all likelihood NOT transfer over, let alone an image of an OEM licensed OS.
If you have a genuine MS non OEM copy you would be in a far better position to move it to any potentially newer system.

Get ahold of a Windows 7 64 pit Professional copy, depending upon the system you get, and you should be good for at least a few more years.
You’ll still have to do some legwork before hand to ensure the system you buy actually has Windows 7 drivers on offer.

At any rate, the longer you wait the less success you’ll have in keeping a Windows 7 system.

I think the best option would be to build your own system at this point. And you won’t need to get the
cutting edge hardware in order to build a very decent and long lasting system. Windows 7 drivers are STILL
on offer for many many motherboards and a great many other components as well.

Nothing beats building as your options are nearly infinite.

My reversal, without getting deep in to politics, and the rational behind it:

Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety